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HMS Winchelsea - 1764 - Group Prototype by Chuck (1/4" scale)

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Looks really good Chuck - still thinking about an approach for us building in Pear/Cherry.  Maybe just going with Boxwood colored for the rails and sculptures will look good. It does tie in well with the frieze.  Usually I only like three tones in a project - on this one there could be black wales, red bulwarks, pear planking, boxwood sculptures/rails and blue frieze.  Or dye all of the boxwood down using your recommended gel stain - Ill have to experiment.  

 

This ship is looking amazing - kudos - Im also thinking of rigging her.  Ive got the space !!!!

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I think it will look fantastic with the colors I just mailed you for the carvings.  The frieze will look good too.   You just need to wait until after planking is done to really experiment so you need to get back at it and start making some more sawdust.

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3 hours ago, Chuck said:

Its what you would expect.  It costs a lot.  Its different depending on what you buy.  The easiest way to find out is to put stuff in your cart in my online store and then it will calculate it.  You will find the exact price that way before you check out.

Thanks a lot Chuck! Will check that. 

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On 12/21/2019 at 10:25 AM, ChrisLBren said:

This ship is looking amazing - kudos - Im also thinking of rigging her.  Ive got the space !!!!

LOL - I have lots of room too - it's the admiral that's having an issue with it.  She has nowhere to find a home!!!  

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I couldn't help myself! I ordered the plywood laser-cut bulkheads and the Chapter 1 and 2 cherry packages! I will make time to start :) This build looks so much fun I can't wait!  Chuck has made an excellent product, and I want to support his efforts.

 

Jeff

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On 12/20/2019 at 5:23 PM, Chuck said:

Yes indeed.  Luckily our models dont see the outside and any water.  The cedar really works well and has a great color that is so complimentary with the use of boxwood.

 

In fact, to point that out, I finished the qgallery on the starboard side.  For the most part, all of the wood that makes up what you see on the qqallery is boxwood.  It blends really well with the cedar.  You get the benefit of the cheaper price so you can use it for planking and frames and other big stuff.  Then like done here you can switch to the ever more expensive boxwood for the details and other fittings.  In fact, most of the deck fittings and molding will all be done in boxwood.  

 

The qgallery roof rail is all laser cut from boxwood.  You basically have to evenly space the four uprights which are at an angle leaning aft.  There is a nice etched detail on each of them.  These are super super tiny at only 1/16" wide give or take and 1/8" tall.  Then the top rail is added.  This is laser cut with an etched detail along the bottom to give it some depth.  I sanded the laser char and rounded off the edges a bit.  Then I glued it on top of the four uprights.  Yes it a bit longer so you van adjust it to fit your model.

 

Lastly, the three laser cut fancy "flowers" for lack of a better description were glued into the space provided for them.  These are fragile.  Only 1/64" thick and again soooo tiny.  Dont even bother trying to remove the laser char from the edges.  They will break.  Just glue them in position.  That is what I did.

 

This completes all the work for the starboard side as described in chapter 3.  Now to repeat this on the port side!!!

 

Left natural and unpainted...just so you can see it.  Its too bright for my tastes.  I am going with the painted version.

 

qgallrail.jpg

 

The painted version....weathered to look like a slate color....I may still lighten it up a bit.

 

qgallrail1.jpg

qgallrail2.jpg

 

Overall the galleries came out well.  But these are tricky with so many complex angles.  I definitely recommend buying the laser cut pieces for these even if you are trying to build most everything from scratch.  The windows and glazing and the columns with laser etched flutes etc.  All of the laser cut and etched scrolls will be included too.  The angles are all worked out for you and this will make building the qgalleries so much easier.  These parts will be mostly boxwood for the cedar version and cherry for those building it in pear or some other darker wood.  

 

Oh and I added a scrap piece of painted strip to show you guys what the cap rail will eventually look like.   This will be painted black and glued on top of the sheer much later in the  project.  After we finish planking inboard.  Much later...but it shows how nice it will be finished off.

 

Any questions or comments??? 

Chuck: FIrst.. I hope Santa was good to everyone and their tool drawer is nice and full.. 🙂 With the presents open and breakfast in my belly I had a chance to catch up on Chucks posts and I have one question. I assume the laser cut pieces for the galleries will be become available for purchase or do I need to turn on my carving (or lack of) carving skills? I assume if there will be a laser cut set it will become available with the release of chapter 3? As mentioned before.. amazing work.. its continuing to give me lots of incentive to get the Agamemnon done ASAP! 

 

Everyone.. have a merry Kris Kringle!!!

 

MIKE

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Merry Christmass to all!!!

 

Yes indeed...As I finish up the work for each chapter I will make all of the laser cut parts available that I used.   This included the scrolls, windows, and parts for the qgalleries.   No worries there.  You can choose to buy them or not.  You can always scratch build the parts for that chapter if that is what you want to do.  You have both options.

 

Chuck

 

 

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Merry Christmas to you as well, even though I just follow in admiration of what you are doing. Looking at other models of British warships around the same era, I have noticed many have that railing over the q-galleries painted white, and the  hull plating around the railing that same color as the stripe passing through the gun ports. Will you be doing that on your model?

 

Brian :)

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Thanks 

 

no i wont be painting anything white.  Unless you have a few other items painted white or use ivory its too stark.  I have seen that however.  With the friezes and everything else going on i dont want it too busy.  But as you mentioned, there are plenty of options.  It just depends on how much you want to deviate from the original contemporary model based on your own preferences.

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Its really no more difficult than the Fair American or any other plank in bulkhead kit.  You will do just fine.  This project just has more details....if you use the laser cut parts it is just like any other kit.

 

you just need to go slow and enjoy the ride.  And with all of the help here you cant beat the experience of learning within a group and seeing the many different solutions presented for each challenge.

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Derek, You are no more over your head then I am. The most important part of this build is that you learn something about the Art of shipbuilding.

There are many people involved with this build that see it from many different angles. All teach us something! I should know because I am the

worst shipmodeler going.

Just use this an learn

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Thanks Chuck and Tim.  I was working on my Fair American today and was thinking that it's a tough but doable kit.  I have a practicum plus this site to help me through that build. I know I will get 100% support from all the great builders at MSW while working on the Winchelsea.  I also believe the scale will be a help because everything is just a little bit bigger.

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With a couple days away from the sweatshop, and time spent in the workshop instead....I managed to finish the port side.  At least it is finished for chapter 3 and matches the other side.   Now I will turn my attention to the stern transom and all of the carvings and details that go back there.  That will complete this chapter.

 

One note...the two figures on the quarters...you will need to file a groove along the back so they sit flush and in position.  Something we couldnt do when making them.  This will vary from model to model.  This needs to be done because the qgalleries stand proud of the transom edge forming a small alcove.  Filing a small groove or slot down the back of the figure helps it sit nicely in the corner.  You will no doubt find this out when it comes time.  Its easy to do.

 

I think I matched the starboard side pretty well.

 

portgallery2.jpg

portgallery1.jpg

portgallery.jpg

 

 

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Beautiful work Chuck. My planking is looking 100% better with the side bending technique BUT I still get these micro cracks between planks in the bow. I’m hoping the won’t be noticeable when the entire hull is closed up and you can’t see light

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Thanks Joe.....Thank You Chris....Have a happy new Year guys.  

 

Chuck

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On 12/30/2019 at 4:53 AM, Chuck said:

Elmers wood filler is the exact same color as yellow cedar.  Give that a try.  Especially if they are very tiny.

I removed the three bow planks on each side and I am redoing. The one I finished This morning has no gap. If that doesn’t work I’ll try the wood filler. Got to keep a closer eye on detail.

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Ok so to get ready for detailing the stern, here are a few images of the contemporary model.  There will be a few differences on ours based on the original draft.  Here are some close ups for reference.  Its pretty crude when you see it this close up and very dirty.  Ours will be more refined hopefully. I know Jacks figures are so much better than these.

 

DSCF5484.JPG

DSCF5485.JPG

DSCF5486.JPG

sternimage.jpg

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