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Chuck

HMS Winchelsea - 1764 - Group Prototype by Chuck (1/4" scale)

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I like the red paint. very nice.

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Yes the ports around the panels were touched up before the panelled sheets we glued in place.  As far as the other planks....no I waited to trim back those planks and then apply wood filler if need.  Then those gun ports were cleaned up and painted at the same time as the inboard bulwarks.

 

Chuck

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Hi , what a beautiful model and comprehensive guide to your build.

 

What colour will the hull be when finished....will it retain the very pale colour seen in your photos or will you be aiming for the dark honey colour one sees on the models in the NMM?

 

Will you offer the chance to add masts and rigging for modellers who want to build the complete frigate?

 

When will your shop be operational again please?

 

Thanks in advance if you can answer my questions, just fascinated watching the process with recreating this piece of maritime history.

 

kind regards,

 

Dave

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The Alaskan yellow cedar may darken over time, so the color might end up more like the ships in the NMM. Beautiful work and very clean. I like the way you do your model design - well thought out.

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Im going to leave the panels natural.  Just some poly.  But as I mentioned in the instructions...a shade very close to the contemporary model can be achieved by using Old masters fruitwood gel stain.  
 

No masts or rigging sorry.   But those can be added on your own if you like.  Its pretty standard stuff.
 

My hull will end up this same color when done.  Its what I prefer.  But you can use whatever finish you prefer if you build her.
 

I should have my store back open next week sometime. It depends on whether or not the post office has gotten their act together.  I may send a few test orders out just to be sure before opening up.
 

 

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Hello Chuck, I have a question about the height of the cap rail in relation to the bollard timbers

image.png.2970111ad9328fcf65d86a047a4a46e8.png

In the contemporary model the connecting part between the bollard timbers is at the same height as the cap rails.  Does this matter?

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No but keep in mind that the contemporary model doesnt match the original draft in many cases.   So I went with the original draft for my measurements.   In the end it wont matter.   It will just look a bit different.  You could actually go with either way depending on what you like best.

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Today I planked the inboard stern.  There are five strakes.  They are all laser cut with the proper curve.  Note that I started with the top plank so it would be flush with the bottoms of the windows.  We will be adding a thin sill and some molding later on top of this to finish it off.   Excuse the dust!!!  But each new addition does clean every up a bit and make it look nicer covering up all of the frames and bulkheads.  I also decided NOT to high light the seams between these planks as I think they would look too busy.  It will look cleaner this way with the paneled rudder trunk and benches in front of it.

inboardsternplanking.jpg

Also not how the bottom three planks dont span the entire width of the stern.  The center will be left open for the rudder and this whole area will be covered with the paneled rudder trunk.   In fact we will be adding the rudder real soon.

 

But first I want to get the deck planked.  So next up was adding the margin planks.  These are also laser cut with scarfs.  But be aware that it is unlikely that these will fit your model perfectly.  There will be so many differences in the way each of you fair inboard and create the inboard shape of the hull.  So some of you will no doubt have to use them as a starting point to trace them and cut new ones to fit your model.  Its not very hard to do.  They are 3/64" thick. The aft section against the transom was positioned first.  The aft edge was beveled to fit snug against the transom.

marginplank.jpg

Then I started adding each of the four sections along each side.  Starting at the bow and working my way aft.

 

marginplank1.jpg

Next up I will add the waterway which will be a 1/16" x 1/16" strip that is angled on the inboard side.  You know the drill.  Its the same way as done with all of my projects.   Once that is done I will start building the platforms and coaming down the center of the deck so I can plank around them.  Here is how she looks now.  Testing the deck beams too!!!

marginplank2.jpg

 

 

 

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Chuck

I'm just starting to read this build. I assume that you have your own laser cutting two axis machine and that you design the parts in a CAD program then use that to program the machine. I'm wondering how you program the machine to make the markings. I apologize for the technical questions, but I'm a retired engineer and you know how engineers are - they just have to know the details.

Alan

Alan

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You mean the etched lines and letters.  That is done by running the laser at very low power and a higher speed.  The laser doesnt cut all the way through.  It just lightly scores the surface and it shows up because it burns a Light line in the wood

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Some laser cutter software will do it automatically, the black lines will basically be lasered at full power and any other color at lower power depending on the percentage that color has on the scale

 

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I just finished reading all of this incredible build. Kudos to you Chuck for a wonderfully detailed build notes.

Alan

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Always a real pleasure to follow this wonderful build. Thank you Chuck !

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Thank You fellas

 

Today I added the waterway on top of the margin planks.  Originally I was going to use a 1/16" x 1/16" strip.  But after some thought I switched and used a 3/64" x 3/64" strip of cedar.  I carefully sanded away one corner so the strip was like a quarter round molding.  Then I glued it along the bulwarks.

 

cabinfloor.jpg

Then it was time for the checker pattern floor in the great cabin.  This is 3/64" thick.  It is laser etched with the pattern as you can see.  It is cut over-sized so with a little tweaking it should fit everyone's model.  So it is crucial that you make a paper pattern first that fits in the space tight.  Then trace it on the sheet and cut it to fit your model.  Try for a nice tight fit!!!  I prefer a subtle pattern that isnt too dark.  So many models end up with a black and white pattern which I find so distracting.  

 

Remember where the forward bulkhead will be so you position the forward edge correctly.  My floor ends right under where the deck beam will be so I know the bulkhead will sit on top of the edge of the checker pattern.

 

cabinfloor1.jpg

From this point, I will slowly make my way forward building the various coamings and partners.  This needs to be done so we can plank the deck properly around these items.  You can see that the one coaming and grating was completed.  I wont add the ladder until later.  But I did manage to build the capstan partners.

cappartners.jpg

The capstan partner sits against the coaming.  It is also laser cut in three pieces and glues together quickly.  I simulated the seams between each section.  I also softened the top edge because it shouldnt be a hard edge.

 

One interesting feature about the partners is that it should NOT be glued directly to the false deck.  The deck is sloped which is to be expected.  But the partners need to be level otherwise the capstan will not work properly.  This means the forward edge of the partners need to be lifted a bit to raise it up and level it off.  I did this with a little cheat.  I added a small length of a 1/32" strip under the forward edge which will be covered up after we plank the deck.  You will notice how it looks lifted up on the forward side and level.  If you need to sand the bottom of the aft edge a bit to make it level then that is OK also.

 

I simulated the bolts using 20 pound black monfilament.  You guys should pick some up in various sizes as we will be using it a lot throught the model.  

 

Chuck

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Thanks...I have actually been throwing two ideas around in my head.   I am seriously considering the Hornet of 1812.  Or a Colonial Schooner.   But leaning really hard in the direction of Hornet.

 

 

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7 hours ago, Chuck said:

Thanks...I have actually been throwing two ideas around in my head.   I am seriously considering the Hornet of 1812.  Or a Colonial Schooner.   But leaning really hard in the direction of Hornet.

 

 

Leopard in 1:24 :D

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Leopard!!!!  No thats not gonna be a choice.   Its going to be a long while before I tackle a project as large and complex as the Winnie again.   I am going to do a few smaller subjects after this one guys.   The number of laser cut parts and designed elements is about four times more than you will find in most or all kits of this size.  Thats a lot of parts!!!   I want to simplify after this one is done.

 

And I still have to produce a POF cross section for Winnie!!!!  I just want to see if I can tackle the design challenge to give you something new with the cross section.  I think it could be a nice extension of the group project as well.

 

phaseonecomplete.jpg

Wincross.jpg

Wincross1.jpg

 

Chuck

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8 hours ago, Chuck said:

produce a POF cross section for Winnie

I'm very glad to see this still on the table; do you have any idea how far out it might be? Am I correct in assuming that you will wait until after you complete the Winnie to return to it?

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I'm anxiously awaiting the cross-section as well - the scale should hopefully be easier on my aging eyes than the HO-scale Constitution cross-section I did.

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