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scasey88

US Brig Syren by scasey88 - Model Shipways - 1:64 scale

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Shawn - I would definitely do the transom. It does wonders for the strength of the stern. But as to the counter I suggest you take a look at several builds. I did do the counter as suggested in the instructions. But I have found that it interferes with the stern planking. You might want to plank the hull first. Also keep in mind that you need to hide the butt ends of your planking. This includes the Counter, hull, & wales. so the order you plank will help you decide what shows and what does not. If you plank the counter after the hull. you can just sand the hull planks to form a great gluing surface for the last couple of counter planks. Once you do add the transom you can do the sanding needed for the stern. :) more sanding!

 

For example, the Counter can cover the ends of the Wale planking and the Stern Cap rail will cover the ends of the counter. Also as I look at pictures it appears that the stern molding is proud of the Cap rail. I think it will look better to add molding to the stern cap rail similar to the cap rail for the sides.

 

Last comment - I have experimented several times using a single sided razor blade to create the rounded edge of the molding. I find that Bass wood becomes stringy and doesn't work very well. Box wood does work but it is very hard to create the correct profile in the razor blade.

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Okay Thank you Floyd, that is good info, I think I will plank the transom for the strength, but hold off on the counter for now and look at other builds and give that some more thought as I saw the difficulties that you encountered in your build log.

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Floyd look at picking up a set of these micro shapers:

 

Latina Micro Shapers No.1

Tower Stock# LATR7300  •  Manufacturer Stock# 27300

★★★★★ No rating value

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Jim Great Idea! I will order a set. :) Thank you.

 

Shawn - On the Syren there is Molding on the cap rail from stem to stern on both the port & starboard sides. There is also the 2 rows of molding on the stern above and below the name. I am also suggesting that there should be molding on the aft end of the stern cap rail. This will tie in nicely with the 2 rows mentioned here. and finally there is all the fancy work on the bow. So I see lots of opportunity to use these scrapers.

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4 hours ago, fnkershner said:

Jim Great Idea! I will order a set. :) Thank you.

 

Shawn - On the Syren there is Molding on the cap rail from stem to stern on both the port & starboard sides. There is also the 2 rows of molding on the stern above and below the name. I am also suggesting that there should be molding on the aft end of the stern cap rail. This will tie in nicely with the 2 rows mentioned here. and finally there is all the fancy work on the bow. So I see lots of opportunity to use these scrapers.

Floyd, I went ahead and ordered a set of those shapers this afternoon, i will post some test results when i get them.:cheers:

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5 minutes ago, alde said:

Permission to come aboard? Looks like your off to a great start. 

Permission granted, thank you sir:piratebo5:

 

8 minutes ago, Derek C said:

Looking very good Shawn

Thank You Derek, I appreciate it.

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I think these are the carronades that most Syren builders are using. The 18 pounders are the ones that match the plans. I plan to order a ship set for my kit as it's next on my list after the longboat and Glad Tidings. They are a bit expensive though.

http://www.model-dockyard.com/acatalog/caldercarft-Gun_Barrels.html

Edited by alde

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8 hours ago, alde said:

I think these are the carronades that most Syren builders are using. The 18 pounders are the ones that match the plans. I plan to order a ship set for my kit as it's next on my list after the longboat and Glad Tidings. They are a bit expensive though.

http://www.model-dockyard.com/acatalog/caldercarft-Gun_Barrels.html

Hi Al, I have been contemplating whether or not to order those, over $80.00 before shipping, and then I look at how tiny they really are, and I was hoping to find a supplier in the u.s.,

so right now I am leaning towards making the kit carronades work, and putting that 80.00 towards rope and rigging supplies from Chuck, If my Syren turns out real good though, I might decide otherwise and order those carronades.

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Shawn - I am with you. Beside these Carronades do not have the mounting extrusion below the barrel. I am not excited with Doing what Dirk did. He fashioned a cube of metal, soldered in to the barrel, shaped and drilled it! Huge work. I am going to keep looking for an alternative.

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Floyd, yes it is been frustrating looking for a suitable carronade, I saw the ones from Bluejacket, Sal D used them but he also had to modify them a bit, and I think Bob (Rafine) used the Bluejackets as well, not sure if he had to modify them or not. besides that they are casted and not turned brass..:default_wallbash: 

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Ok the AL micro shapers came in today, they came like photo etched pieces and needed to be cut away from the frame, my first impression was they were a little thinner than I thought, but I tested them out on a piece of basswood strip. a bit fuzzy, but they work alright, might get better results on a harder wood like boxwood.

Syren036.thumb.jpg.7cde9972d4b9bc0328e60184b0c5bee5.jpg,Syren037.thumb.jpg.5aa447b624cf18e3312d621e89c35af6.jpgSyren038.thumb.jpg.dca234500ac5d8b7f5b8ac3316a5a2d8.jpg

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Painted the gun ports, picked up a panavise the other day, they manufacture them here in my town Reno, Nevada but i could not find one here anywhere, and they are basically wholesale only, took a road trip to Sacramento and picked it up at Fry's electronics.

 

1509591031056-11438495.jpg

1509591311307-2054342992.jpg

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Hi Shawn,

Just an observation if you don't mind. In your last photo, the upper whale plank seems to run parallel with the gun ports. The gap seems consistent. I had a bugger of a time lining it up with the photo's in the manual, (Because I sanded the reference lines off the bulkheads...) because they shouldn't run parallel.

In Chucks words: "You will notice that the run of the planking DOES NOT follow the run of the gun ports across the hull. This is not an error. The planking will not follow the run of the gun ports".

So I think your positioning is slightly off (I hope so anyway, otherwise mine is off, and mine are already glued....:rolleyes:)

Cheers, Peter

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Hi Peter, yes, I see what you are saying, however, the way the plank is sitting is not permanent, it is not lined up with the marks i made on the bulkheads, i used the reference marks, and made very small adjustments and then i was moving it around, so when i do glue it down it should be alot better as you are right it ended up not being parallel to the ports, but thanks for looking out for me though

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