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Bismarck by Semorebutts - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 scale - PLASTIC - with MK1 detail set


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They should have checked what they sent off to you. That would have avoided your problem, the set might have been partly taken by a shop visitor ... not very kind, but shoplifting still happens, untill nothing can be obtained but for through the internet

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
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1 hour ago, semorebutts said:

 Now that i think bout it, it was not sealed. 

 

Theres so much more pontos than mk1 with more detail, but There has to be an easier way of doing this!

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Sand it off using a sanding stick thats been smoothed a bit to loose a bit of its grit, thats what I do.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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looking good semore.....good you were able to remedy the bumps along the way  ;) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Scott, I use a hand chissel, a small straight one like this:

pfeil_handpalmguts.jpg.0df75bc8889886346c6c6305e2032837.jpg

It gives me far more control than an exacto like knife, and doesn't flex

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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1 hour ago, semorebutts said:

That's a great idea. hopefully they sell small chisels :D

Hobby lobby has a set of 4 or 5 small hand chisels run about 16 to 18 dollars perfect for what your doing price is right.

 

Takes a little longer to hone the edge after all its not a 75 dollar chisel it resembles what Carl posted:D

Edited by John Allen
correction

John Allen

 

Current builds HMS Victory-Mamoli

On deck

USS Tecumseh, CSS Hunley scratch build, Double hull Polynesian canoe (Holakea) scratch build

 

Finished

Waka Taua Maori War Canoe, Armed Launch-Panart, Diligence English Revenue Cutter-Marine  Model Co. 


 

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Perfect John thanks! I will order that later. 

 

I must say I like Pontos better than MK1 PE.  The PE itself has much more detail. I think the instructions are also better. 

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this is how much more Pontos offers over MK1.  And thats just for that piece. And theres still alot i wont use like the louvers. Don't get me wrong MK1 makes a great upgrade set, but on my next model I would have to go with Pontos... actually why not both again

IMG_0870.thumb.JPG.e43ad36e2e2af59be6a2f8c14d2e9757.JPG

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49 minutes ago, semorebutts said:

 

What a mess!

IMG_0879.thumb.JPG.94c22a17b35567a519b010406185ad80.JPG

What a great idea tackling section by section including painting, its easier that way to get a quality job in a controled area at a time.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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I take the "section by section" approach to my models as well. As Yves said it makes keeping track of all the parts a lot easier.

 

One thing I'd do though - I'd leave painting each section until they are ALL done in case there is an "overlap" with some parts, and also in case there is any filling needed between sections. You'd also get a more even colour overall.

 

:cheers:  Danny

Cheers, Danny

________________________________________________________________________________
Current Build :    Forced Retirement from Modelling due to Health Issues

Build Logs :   Norfolk Sloop  HMS Vulture - (TFFM)  HMS Vulture Cross-section  18 foot Cutter    Concord Stagecoach   18th Century Longboat in a BOTTLE 

CARD Model Build Logs :   Mosel   Sydney Opera House (Schreiber-Bogen)   WWII Mk. IX Spitfire (Halinski)  Rolls Royce Merlin Engine  Cape Byron Lighthouse (HMV)       Stug 40 (Halinski)    Yamaha MT-01   Yamaha YA-1  HMS Hood (Halinski)  Bismarck (GPM)  IJN Amatsukaze 1940 Destroyer (Halinski)   HMVS Cerberus   Mi24D Hind (Halinski)  Bulgar Steam Locomotive - (ModelikTanker and Beer Wagons (Modelik)  Flat Bed Wagon (Modelik)  Peterbuilt Semi Trailer  Fender Guitar  

Restorations for Others :  King of the Mississippi  HMS Victory
Gallery : Norfolk Sloop,   HMAT Supply,   HMS Bounty,   HMS Victory,   Charles W. Morgan,   18' Cutter for HMS Vulture,   HMS Vulture,  HMS Vulture Cross-section,             18th Century Longboat in a Bottle 

Other Previous Builds : Le Mirage, Norske Love, King of the Mississippi

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I have the next 11 days off so im going to try to get alot done in that time. I haven't painted yet because I want to try tamiyas liquid surface primer. I dont knowwhy im going to prime as i dont think it needs it, but ill give it a shot. 

 

Electrical conduate, catapult catwalks, phone booths and signal light guard rails cut out ready to bend or apply. 

IMG_0898.thumb.JPG.a25438876fef3a5782044688d3233036.JPG

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really nice!  ;) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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That's why most use silver solder and a mini torch, Scott. It heats quicker, but is hotter, and it flows nice in between the parts. However, PE will easily burn in front of your eyes, literally, so usually CA thin or thick (even gel form) is used in stead of soldering.

 

You are a brave man to solder, not one of the faint of hearts.

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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I only bought the soldering iron for the masts. When the model is done the only thing that i want soldered are the masts. I just couldn't resist I had to try on a spare PE part. I have always wanted to scratch build something use just brass stock so maybe this will get more use than just a mast.;) I think I still may buy a torch and silver solder.

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