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RKR Varyag by RGL - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/350


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Seriously I have no idea. Maybe on the windows? Maybe because it’s very hard? It’s a pain as it won’t sand well, and Ive learnt to add PE to plastic before paint in most cases. 

 

It’s actually great having lots of photos of him from all the ubiquitous Chinese tourists in Hong Kong who have posted a heap of HD photos. 

 

I intend on using lots lots of spare IJN stuff to superdetail it before I go to paint. If it ends up looking like crap so be it. Slow down. Enjoy it. Repeat mantra. 

Greg

 

 

 

 

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clear plastic can be a pain to cut.......it's raw plastic with no color additives to soften it.   you've done an amazing job there Greg...quite a bit given the time line ;) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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the tower structure looks really super........all that PE looks awesome  :)   really nice progress Greg!

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Back to reality and the hull. It’s really smooth. Really really smooth. You can see from the photo that’s not real life. 

 

I oversprayed lots lots of layers of rattle can primer to give me a good base and I’m now in the process of lightly scribing panels into the primer (not the plastic). Unlike the old warships, there are no bolt on external Armor bands. This will make a base for the preshading and oil canning when painting. I hope. 

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Greg

 

 

 

 

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Carl

 

They get to have summer down there this time of year. :D

 

Lou

 

Greg looks like we posted at the same time. Enjoy the warmth! 95 is a little warm here for me. We seldom get that hot here in the Pacific NW. 

Edited by lmagna

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Interesting temperatures. They are about the same as our hottest months, (July/August) for about 3 or 4 pm in the afternoon. The rain and stuff in your forecast looks about the same though.

 

Lou 

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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2 hours ago, lmagna said:

They get to have summer down there this time of year. :D

 

Gosh, never would have thought that possible ...

 

1 hour ago, RGL said:

Notice  the time

 

You're up late, mate. Can't sleep because of the heat ...?

 

1 hour ago, RGL said:

Summer has just started, the 40’s are uncomfortable. 

 

So if this is the prelude to summer ... what will it bring when it's in full swing ...

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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Greg

I have lived in this mild climate for so long that if we reached temperatures in the 40s I would just be a puddle on the floor with eyeballs sticking out! In fact most people in this area do not take heat well and not many even have air conditioning except in their cars. Luckily the ocean breeze helps us avoid most of that kind of heat.

The highest temperature for my city that I can find is 36.6 in June of 1955. It does get a little hotter a few miles from here in Seattle because of the way the ocean breezes blow.

 

Lou  

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Only 27 at the moment and almost beer o’clock. Preshading begins along the etched panel lines. I think I’ll do it again with a red/black mix, then give it a varnish coat, add some chipping fluid in places, then paint (this is below the water line) then do a bit of chipping before I do a boot strap and white water line. 

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Greg

 

 

 

 

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Hi Greg; just found your new log - very interesting subject it is too.  Nice work so far, lots and lots of minor details on these 'beasties'. 

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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I have re attacked the pre shading, then covered the black bits with Matt varnish, the idea is to then put chipping fluid on top of the black prior to commencing painting. The chipping fluid is apparently good for 2 day’s under paint, but there is a full day’s work just getting the bottom of the hull right. I’m going to let that sit until a good black of day’s off. 

 

That way, once the hull red is added, I can chip away at areas for wear and tear that will appear as bare metal. This ship requires a boot strap and white line as well, then I can the add grunge. 

 

Next, just arrived from France after a weeks trip to Oz, tannoys it speakers, which are fairly liberally festooned around the ship. 

 

Someone in Singapore flew a drone over the Varyag this year and the HD video is amazing and I have picked up a lot of details on the superstructure I have to revisit. The kit does not come close to covering it all. 

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Edited by RGL

Greg

 

 

 

 

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depth as in shadow lines.

 

I should elabortate: when you want to give depth to a structure on a flat surface, you can add it by giving shadows to it (like in a painting Rembrandt, Vermeer, etc all did it) You can also do it on a 3D model with a flat surface, by drawing dark lines on it, and spraying thin (semi) translucent layers of the colours which will in the end give the required colour on top, in this way you can add depth to a flat surface. However if you would first colour e.g. the hull, and add the darker lines afterwards, the shadow effect would be lost, as it would not have a natural shadow appearance. Instead of black, you could also use dark purple or dark (navy) blue, which is mostly used in water colour, gouache, and oil painting to set a shadow ...

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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