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Guns of History Carronade by Worldway - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24

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This is a diversion to building my Bluenose.  I decided to tackle this to step away from the Bluenose for a while. 




As per normal operating procedure I checked contents with the parts list to make sure everything was there.




I think I'll start the actual build tomorrow.  I'm hoping to do it justice but we'll have to wait and see.

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First step was to bevel the front of the plywood 10 degrees to create the bulwark tumblehome (I had to use the dictionary for that word). I did this by using a belt sander mounted upside down on my workbench then running the plywood on the sandpaper as it ran.  I eyeballed the bevel using a compass to verify the angle.  I next started laying the planks trying Art's (Osmosis) idea of using black construction paper between the planks.  It didn't work for me. Likely because I didn't let the glue fully cure before trying to trim the paper (or I didn't have enough glue coverage on the paper). When I tried to trim the paper it simply lifted out leaving a void.  Luckily enough, because the glue wasn't fully set I managed to remove three rows I had installed.  I'm starting the planking again only this time using a pencil to simulate the caulking.  No pictures yet because there is basically nothing to show at this point.


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The first thing I realize is that the instructions are limited and you really need to carefully follow along.  It's easy to miss an assembly instruction if you're not reading carefully.  But. having said that, the instructions are there.


For example, I miss the part where it says you have to bevel the deck 10 degrees.  Luckily, I had to remove the first few planks so then I was able to do the bevel.




I continued planking the deck.  It occurred to me that I wasn't following the instructions pattern but I really don't think it matters, or whether anyone would even notice.




Next it was time to prep and paint the metal parts.  The metal is very soft so it was easy to remove imperfections with a file.  I'm using an acrylic paint.




Also, I did the cannon base sub assemblies




All in all it was a pretty productive day.  The advertisement for this model suggests that it is a weekend project.  Maybe for some but definitely not for me.  Hopefully I will be done by Christmas.  I had to put my MS rope walk under the tree so maybe it will be good time to make new ropes for this model.



Edited by Worldway
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Tonight I finished planking the deck and final assemblies of the carronade base. I also polyurethaned the deck after adding simulated trenails.  I used a mechanical pencil to push into the wood and twist to add the trenails.  There was a tiny bit of bleeding after polyurethane but barely noticeable. Tomorrow I plan to go to Michael's to get the paint I need to use to paint the model.  





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I've spent the last couple of nights painting and doing some sub-assemblies. I have difficulty dealing with minute tiny parts and trying to get them installed correctly.  I was getting frustrated last night but think it turned out OK.  As per the instructions, after assembly of the carronade, you add glue to hold everything in place.  I found last night that the gun tended to be front heavy but after adding Weldbond and mounting it in place it seems to be holding.  If for some reason it loses its grip I'll use some epoxy glue hoping that will be better.




I used masking tape around the edge of the deck when I painted the ends of the deck.  The paint did bleed through, under the tape.  However, because I had already added two coats of polyurethane it was easy to scrape the black paint from the top of the deck.




I think the deck turned out nice.




More painting and on to more assembly, but not tonight.




One thing I've noticed is that the paint on the metal parts comes off easily.  Not by rubbing or anything but if it gets bumped with another metal part or touched by tweezers the paint seems to come off.  I'm wondering if it's because of the acrylic paint or the fact that I didn't wash the parts as instructed prior to assembly.

Edited by Worldway
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Thanks for the advice Ken and Ron.  I did read that the cast parts should be washed first. I guess I just got lazy and figured it "really" wasn't that necessary.  Turns out, it is.  I may change the type of paint I'm using for the next Long Gun I'll be doing.  I'm having some problems with the tiny parts.  I need more patience and rely on jigs and fixtures more.






The instructions say to attached the tool holding arms using the supplied nails.  I knew immediately that this would be a bad idea because of the close proximity to the edge of the timbers.  Therefore I made a small jig to help hold the parts while I used epoxy to secure them.


I assembled the tools using epoxy.




The tools seem to be front end heavy and don't sit properly on the holders.  They tend to fall forward constantly.  I'm wondering if I should epoxy them in place.




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Thought you might enjoy this Naval gun. Was 13 when I made it, '62 years ago', from an old hitch. Pillow Block held a roll of caps, after drilling holes a carriage bolt and hammer made a fine bang and produced some gun smoke. Will remove from your build log tomorrow.


Edited by jud
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I ended up with two different upper hinges. I decided to make my first foray into metal working.  I had some spare brass strip and thought I could refashion a couple of new hinges.


First job was to split the strip in half to narrow the thickness




Next was to fashion a loop on one end. I used a piece of brass wire for the loop radius.




I had to add two nail holes in each.  The easiest way I found to do this was too use a needle and hammer it through the soft brass.


I then painted the brass black




I varnished the tool handles and the top rail.  Before assembling the top rail I filed a notch in the center to accept the chain.20171130_183347_resized.thumb.jpg.ff705a9c3afe9e36a24aca0348fd467d.jpg20171130_192908_resized.thumb.jpg.be7bae135da05068ebb08cc976c7a2d1.jpg


I then installed the top rail.






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What is the best way to drill small holes in cast metal and brass?  My drill set for my pin vice doesn't do anything on metal and my metal drills are too big.  For the brass strip above I hammered a needle through it to get the hole.  For the other half of the hinge I used the smallest drill bit I had but it was too big.  I managed to hammer a pin through it as well but ended up doing some other minor damage that I now have to repair.

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I find this impossible to do with a pin vise.  I bought a Dremel drill press setup for my Dremel tool and it worked like a a charm.  I can drill #77 holes with ease.  Costs about $48 but you can find non-Dremel brands for cheaper that will work with a Dremel tool.


Edited by DocBlake
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Dave, I think I'll invest in the Dremel Workstation.  I may need to work on convincing the admiral for a few days.


Fnkershner is Blackin-It the name of the product.  It would be great to use, I really don't like using paint


Don, thanks for the tip.  Do you simply use a hammer with the bit to punch through?

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I think that is the trade name. If you go to a model railroad store I am sure they have it. There is lots of info on this site about this stuff. You will need to clean your metal parts thoroughly and you will need to make sure the part is completely dry after soaking. there are lots of approaches. I use finger nail remover for the cleaning step. and I let is dry for at least 12 hours then I drop it in the bath of Blackin-It. let that sit for about 4 hours. Then wash thoroughly with water (to stop the chemical reaction). And dry with soft cloth. I have never used it on anything other than Brass or Copper. I am told it works on other metals. I suggest you experiment.

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Hi Derek,

I've always had a hard time finding brass blackening solution in Canada. I haven't found a single supplier that has it. I have used gun bluing (from Canadian Tire) with some success, but I also used blackening solutions from Blue Jacket in Maine and the shipping charges didn't break the bank. They have several different ones available including one that works on Britannia metal.


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Blacken-It is no longer produced.  It was a small mom and pop place and they passed away in a traffic accident and the company went out of business.  There are other blackening agents - just be sure to use one that is made for your metal -Brass blackening agents will not work on white metal and vice versa. 

As to using acrylic paints on metal - there is no reason not to.  Just be sure to clean them well.  A primer can help but also a bath in an etching agent gives a "tooth" to the metal that helps with paint adhesion.  Again, be sure to clean off the etching agent.

There are several threads on blackening metals that you can do a search for.


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  • 3 weeks later...

Continuing on.  The cannon barely fit in the opening because the angle of the bullwarks was too much.  However, it will work.






Starting the finicky job of rigging.  First lesson learned, glue the rope knots. 




Will continue with the rigging.  Should be done this soon.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Continuing with the rigging. I am starting to enjoy this project although I've had my share of problems.  However, I am learning a lot from it.  My next ship is the Fair American which has cannons so this is an introductory course for me.  I do however have the Naval Smooth bore kit to do and will apply the lessons learned on this kit to the next one. Perhaps I enjoy rigging and haven't realized it yet.  




You have to attach the chain using very small round brass rings.  I found the best way to deal with this was to use hemostats.  They actually really helped me with the installation.  I also used reverse grip tweezers a lot to help hold assemblies.  I thought this was going to be a very tricky step but turned out to go better than I thought.

Edited by Worldway
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I have enjoyed the limited rigging on this project and haven't found it too difficult or challenging.  I think the pictures are self explanatory.  The only thing left to do is to rig the cannon door and install the tools then I'm pretty much complete.


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