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HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - 1:48 scale

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Post 65

Returning outboard

Side steps and Channels

Surprising how much time producing these seemingly innocuous little fittings take.

There are three of these each side aligning with the inboard steps.

They are formed from 3/32" x 3/32" Boxwood strip as indicated by Chuck.

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I decided to mill the profile rather than use the 'scrape' method but I first had a practice on slightly larger stuff.

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Ready for fitting.

I fit them in the order of top, bottom, and middle, taking care not to damage the moulding when removing a section to allow the top step to fit in.

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The 'iron' stanchions are only temporarily fitted at this point to help align the inboard and outboard steps.

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The question has already been discussed on Chuck's log as to why no fourth step. My eye screams at me that one should be there, along the line of the top moulding strip.

Only three are shown on the NMM original plans, so three it is, but my eye still screams at me.

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Channels

These are made from 5/32" x 5/32" strip as indicated by Chuck.

Having marked the profile  I used the little miller to produce the shape.

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The end profile was formed used a scalpel and mini round file.

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I decided to leave cutting the slots until later when I had a better idea of the Chainplate angles.

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Little by little getting there.

 

 

B.E.

05/02/2019

 

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Hi B.E. I too thought that about the outboard steps so I just added a fourth. The 5/8" gap to the top rail is 2'6" in reality. They must have had very long legs considering the average height then was around 5'6" :D

 

I've just finished making the stocks for my anchors. Went into Laverys' Arming and Fitting to find out the bolting patterns for them. Read a bit further on and he says that the round Crown Anchor and Arms shown on my copy of Chucks plan were not around in 1806.  The first of this pattern was not made until 1813 and by 1815 only 25 had been made and 14 issued,probably starting with 1st rates. I also had a look in Steel but no mention of a new pattern there. Up to you of course,just thought I'd let you know.  

 

Regards,

 

Dave :dancetl6:

Edited by davyboy

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I'm with you BE, my knee feels sore just looking at the height of the top step.  I think I would lean toward adding another.  I had a similar conundrum with a main hatch ladderway that is clearly shown on NMM plans but just looks plain odd in reality so went with the aesthetic solution.  Love the detail of the drainage holes.

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My eye does keep getting drawn to that space above the third step, eventually I may succumb and add  a fourth along the line of the top moulding. Only downside is that I would have to mill a complete new set to get the profiles the same.

 

Not all sources agree Jason that there were hand holes cut into the entry steps but Peter Goodwin shows them in his Cutter Alert Book, and Victory had them, I thought them a nice detail, and besides getting aboard Cheerful seemed difficult enough😉

 

Cheers Dave, as soon as I received Chuck's mini anchor kit I thought 'too early for Round Crown' .

I will be fitting an Admiralty pattern anchor; Caldercraft have a good range, one of which will suit, but that's some way off at present.🙂

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 2/15/2018 at 3:13 PM, Blue Ensign said:

I have decided to go with the Vallejo acrylic flat red

I have done exactly what you did and I also ended up with the Vallejo flat red:)

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Thanks for looking in Jorgen, I'm quite impressed with the Vallejo paint, it has great consistency, thins beautifully, and very economical to use.

I initially bought three bottles, unsure how much Cheerful would take, but I've still got plenty left from the first bottle.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

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Thank you for your  comments kirill4 and OC, much appreciated.

Post 66

Continuing outboard

Thinking about Scuppers

On Cheerful there are four of them running along the hull with the outlets sited just above the wale.

As far as I can see from the plans the scuppers are 1.5mm in the clear.

I'm certainly not brave enough to  drill the holes straight thro' the hull so mine will be false scuppers.

Scuppers weren't just downward sloping holes drilled thro' the hull they were lead lined pipes exiting the hull thro' a specific block fixed between the frames, with flanges turned on either end.

I wished in some way to at least replicate the flanges.

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The answer came in the form of brass hollow eyelets with a thickness of 0/1mm, 1/16th" dia and 3/32" length. I remembered that I had originally bought these for use on Pegasus but they proved a tad too large for 1:64 scale, but for Cheerful at 1:48 just about right.

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The scuppers were chemically blackened  before a push fit into the hole.

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So far so good, I'm happy with the outlets.

 

The internal scuppers are far more tricky with the flange fitting; part on the margin plank and part on the waterway, running to the spirketting.

I take my lead for the internal scupper arrangements from  David Antscherl's  FMM book Vol 11.

Drilling the internal scuppers needs care to avoid splitting the very fine waterway strip.

 

I spent a day forming the flanges from slices of aluminium tubing, hammered  a little, and squeezed to form an oval shape.

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As I thought fitting proved tricky, but in the end I didn't like the effect. I thought they looked too prominent, so off they all came.

 

Approach 2 involved stamping flange shapes from a sheet of 0.1mm thick lead foil sheet.

This was more promising as the process was quicker  and the flanges moulded closer to the profile.

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These are in a raw state but already they look more in scale and less prominent.

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I will leave these to allow for natural patination before I consider a coat of flat grey paint.

 

Time to consider  the Chain and Backstay plates.

 

B.E

07/02/2019

 

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BE, do the channels rest on top of the planking or do they go directly onto the frames.  I’ve never known quite how it was done?

 

nice job with the scuppers.  A real pain to get the right look.

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Thank you Thomas, Dowmer and Hartmut. 🙂

 

@ Dowmner - I believe the Channels were simply bolted to the side, thro' the planking into the frames. On larger vessels they usually had supporting brackets, but channels were fairly lightweight structures whose main purpose was to spread the shrouds, not as sometimes mistakenly thought to also bear the weight of the pull of the shrouds. That was the job of the chainplates.

 

@ Hartmut - long time no hear Hartmut, but a nice surprise all the same. Hope you are well and still enjoying ship modelling.

 

B.E.

 

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Hello Maurice!

 

Yes I am fine and modelling is still a great pleasure. In the last time I have finished the Pinco Genovese and the Staatenyacht Utrecht. My current project is the Golden Hind on an old german plan by Hoeckel. I hope you are fine to.

 

Do you know something about Pete Coleman?

 

regards Hartmut

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Good to hear Hartmut, yes Pete is still going strong, heavily involved with his wild life rescue interest, and caring for his orphan squirrels.

Not so active on ship modelling at present, but the Victory forum is still alive altho' not as active as in previous years.

Your fine Pegasus and Agamemnon builds are still there along with most of the other builds, recovered from a systems crash a while ago.

Michael D is still progressing his wonderful 1756 Victory conversion, and the  significant data on all things Victory is  largely intact.

I do go in and have a look from time to time, but I don't have any current builds posted on there.

Regards,

Maurice.

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Post 67

Chain and Backstay plates.

As indicated by Chuck I obtained some 1/64"x 3/32" brass strip to form the iron work.

The K&S strip is quite easy to work, and I don't think I will need machinery to produce these fittings.

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I did need to work out a strategy to hold and work these quite small items.

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One of the things I wanted to replicate was the distinct round at the base of the plate where the bolt enters, rather than just a straight taper up to where the hook is formed.

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A prototype backstay plate.

With the prospect of fourteen plates to make, my mind fondly drifts back to the brass etched versions provided with my Pegasus kit.

However in practice the task  proves less onerous than first may be thought.

The  Chain plates are measured against the model and cut to basic shape. Each strip is marked with its position on the channel.

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Having formed the plate the slight taper is filed in.

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I have left the chainplates overlong at this stage; before finishing I need to get the angles correct against the channels, and for this I need to rig a temporary mast and shrouds to be able to mark the channel slots.

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So the next stage is to set up a temporary shroud rig.

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With the lines established I can now move ahead and mark the slots on the channels and fixing points for the Chainplates.

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With the slots cut and positions checked final finishing of the Chainplates can proceed.

 

B.E.

 

10/02/2019

 

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Post 68

Making up the Deadeyes

Associated with the Chainplates are the deadeyes and strops.

Chuck indicates 6mm deadeyes and 22 gauge wire for the strops. (this is 0.64mm ø (awg) or 0.71mm ø (swg)

I used Chuck's self assembly Boxwood deadeye kit, and 0.6mm ø wire.

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I sacrificed one deadeye to form a jig to hold the others for char removal, stropping, and cleaning up.

Deadeye strops

Tricky little beggars these, a ring of wire needs to be formed sufficiently large to just fit over the deadeye, but small enough not to form too large a loop at the bottom to connect with the Chainplate.

The process starts with a little bit of best guess to gauge the correct size.

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Once I've got the fit, I can proceed to make the number required, each one tested for size on the deadeye jig.

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Once formed the ring is cleaned in acid, dipped in de-ionised water before soldering, and quenching once again in the de-ionised water.

A small amount of solder paste is applied to the join, a quick blast of the torch, a flash of silver and the jobs done.

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Hoping they  don't break when the  bottom is squeezed with long nose pliers to form the loop.

In cleaning up two broke but the rest held good.They are then chemically blackened before fitting.

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The completed set with a couple of spares.

For security silver soldering is the only way to go with this sort of thing.

 The whole process took around 4½ hours.

 

I am conscious that the deadeyes need to be level with the underside of the Capping Rail when attached to the Chainplates so I considered it beneficial to complete them in advance.

 

Back to the Chainplates.

 

B.E.

11/02/2019

 

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B.E. I just caught up with your progress and it was a pleasure to view. Your ingenuity and workmanship is fantastic!

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Much appreciated Rusty,  your Cheerful log has been a constant reference source and inspiration during my build. I wish I had achieved the same cleanness  of Hull planking so evident in your fine build.

 

Regards, 

 

B.E.

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Hi Martin, de-ionised water  (distilled water) is simply used to  neutralise the acid before I dip in the blackening solution, and then to stop the process once the depth of colour is achieved.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

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Post 69

Completing the Chainplates

I now get back to fettlin' the Chainplates and with the deadeye strops completed I can now gauge the width of the chainplate fold over to secure them.

A further 'on model' trial fit of the Chainplates to check positions and form the bends required where the Chain fits over the wale.

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This is a bit of a scary exercise and is done with the model supported on towels and a flat metal edge used to press the chains into shape.

This needs to be done before blackening for obvious reasons.

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The chains are then  blackened;

 washed in soapy water, rinsed, dipped in acid, rinsed again, submerged in the brass black. and once again rinsed.

I also tested a deadeye in the blackening fluid to test the effect on the Boxwood. There was no visible effect on either the colour or the stability.

This is just as well as once the chainplate has been messed about fitting and adjusting the connecting loop, a further dip in the brass black is required.

This is one of the downsides to metal blacking items such as this rather than painting them, but for me the finish is far preferable.

All this is a fiddly exercise, particularly getting the deadeyes to sit reasonably level with each other. Tiny differences in the strop and chainplate loops contrive to work against you, to produce an uneven top line.

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In relation to the fixing of the chainplates I have followed the Admiralty plan and placed the second bolt above the wale, also shown on Chuck's plan, rather than have the two fixings thro' the wale.

It took a days work to complete one side of the Chainplates, with still a little more adjusting and touching in to do.

 

Backstay plates

I am using Caldercraft 5mm brass etched hooks for the rigging attachment to the Backstay plates so the plate loops need to be made to accept these.

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Much quicker to make and fit the backstay plates.

Overall three days work to complete and fit  the ironwork.

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I can now leave the Blacksmiths Forge and return to the Carpentry shop.

 

B.E.

15/02/2019

 

 

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BE,

I'm glad to see you spent so much time on the fastidious chainplates.  You got the look just right, and it really enhances the “look” of the ship.  So many people make this an after thought as they want to get busy with other parts of the build, but it’s so noticeable that it deserves the time and patience you showed it.  Well done 👍 

 

Why use the Caldercraft PE hooks?  Why not make them out of wire like Chuck did?  I think they look far superior.

 

 

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Thanks Dowmer, those hooks are quite small and once blackened and fitted there’s not a lot to see.

Being basically a lazy builder I will purchase parts if I think they are up to scratch 😉 rather than make them, that’s why my Cheerful build is in the kit section rather than the scratch section.

ps.: I have now modified the coamings following your timely advice a few posts back 😊

 

Regards, 

 

B. E.

 

 

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Hi B.E. These chainplates were a bit of a pain to make,I had to remake a couple of mine which were not up to scratch. Yours look very good indeed. Will start making my cat blocks this weekend,I have some .020" x .040" copper wire. Just about the right size for the "iron strapping",I hope.

 

regards,

 

Dave :dancetl6: 

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48 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

ps.: I have now modified the coamings following your timely advice a few posts back 😊

 

😁 Just trying to help LOL 😂.

Your shipbuilding skills are still way above mine. Keep up the marvelous work.

 

 

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Cheers Guys, and for all the 'like' hits, much appreciated.

Post 70

Fixed Block

This is a convenient point to make the fixed block for the stem to take the jib outhaul.

Taking measurement off the plan the block is made from a scrap of 3mm thick boxwood sheet.

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I cut the profile on the little mill, and finished it with files and sanding sticks.

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The sheave was made from a slice off some Ramin dowel.

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The bench will now be cleared so I can get down to a spot of gun blackening.

 

B.E.

17/02/2019

 

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