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What brand of #11 blades do you use


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I bought a 100 pack of #11 blades a couple years ago. I did not keep the outer package cover so I don't know the brand. They are plenty sharp when new, but dull quickly and the tips brea with ease. 

 

Is this just common, or are some better than others?

 

 

Edited by bigcreekdad
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MicroMark  #11 pk of 100

 

frequent strop using

scrap leather and FlexCut Gold cmpd

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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After decades of using various brands of #11 hobby blades, I finally tried surgical blades and discovered to my delight they are sharper, stronger and stay sharp longer...I've shifted to surgical #11 blades and holders for most of my hobby work now.

Cliff Ward

Cary, North Carolina

USA

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I use exacto but I like the idea of surgical. I will purchase these next time . Thanks Clifford

 

Derek

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Surgical blades are the way to go.  Xacto or Excel both will loosen if you apply pressure that loosens the tightening nut.  The surgical blades lock in place and prevent this.

Kurt

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Any preferences on type of surgical blade or handle or supplier (Amazon, etc)???

 

Larry

Larry

 

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Completed Builds:  Cape Cod Nimblet Knockabouts - Loon, Hawk, Gull and Falcon

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I use Swann-Morton #25a blades.  They are a lot cheaper if you get the non-sterilized blades.  Have found them on both Amazon and ebay

You might want to get a plastic handle like this (just an example) https://www.amazon.com/OdontoMed2011®-SCALPEL-PLASTIC-VETERINARY-INSTRUMENTS/dp/B01EC46Q52/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1511647956&sr=8-9&keywords=scalpel+handle+4

Kurt

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

CLUBS

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Midwest Model Shipwrights

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Just checked out Amazon for this purpose and there are options, look into the reviews and do not read the 4 or 5 star ratings , read the 2 or 1 and base your purchase on that.

Prices are good all over board so it wouldn't be to hard to get some for trial purpose.

Check out surgical tools as they can be useful for our building adventures.

 

Edit: best part for us, even though you buy a 100 pack for some dollars they will last a long time as we can use them over and over again. And not dispose after one usage.:D

Edited by Nirvana

 

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I, along with others, just do a quick re-sharpen the edge with a wetstone as needed.  Just a couple of swipes and the edge is back.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

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Past Builds:
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Switched to scalpel blades for cutting based on multiple advices on MSW, and never look back.

Though Excel blade #10 is just perfect for scraping! Just the right profile and stiffness. Lasts forever for scraping, no nicks. I have a feeling that after scraping in one direction there is a burr on the edge of the blade - then you just scrape in another direction and it works great :) Alternating directions also moves the burr from one side to another.

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Following suggestions from here, I am now experimenting with violin-makers knives

for the jobs that these disposable blades do. Not enough experience with this yet.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Few cautions with surgical blades.  They are extremely sharp, and were designed for operating on flesh, not cutting wood.  They are brittle and break much more easily when forced than exacto type blades.  Be gentle with them. 

 

Also, be very careful when changing the blades in the scalpel handle.  The attachment is different than a hobby knife holder, and takes some getting used to.  Would strongly suggest getting a hemostat or other small surgical clamp to use when changing blades so you don't cut yourself.  There are some blade removal tools, but I haven't tried them.

 

I use #10, #11, and #15 blades.  Rather than swapping out blades when I need a different shape like I used to do with my old exacto knives, I got a couple of handles - you can get them for $3-4 each, much less than needing sutures.

 

Dave

Edited by davec

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Echo Cross Section

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1/64 Kitbashed Rattlesnake from Bob Hunt practicum

1/64 Brig Supply

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Swan-Morton (non sterilized)  carton of 100 will last a VERY long time.  I've had no problems using them in an X-acto holder.  If there is any question of sharpness after some usage, replace the blade.  

Maury

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I've been using Swann-Morton #26 unsterilised blades for donkeys years,also use the #21 and #25's occasionally. Much prefer the larger size of these blades to small blades. Incidentally,I just use my fingers to change these blades and have never cut myself doing so. To remove,I hook a thumbnail under the end,lift then push forward a bit and slide blade off the handle by gripping the back. To replace,grip the back then slide new blade on 'til it clicks in place. That's how I've always done it without injury. 

 

Dave :dancetl6:

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I switched to surgical blades a while back and I really like them. Got a few handles to keep from swapping the common types. Of the hobby blades, Excel over Xacto, better grade of steel for a bit longer edge. I've taken to stropping all my blades every few cuts to keep a keen edge.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

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I have a variety of surgical blades which are very sharp but brittle. I use some universal plastic-metal holders that came with a cheap set and hold the blades just fine. However, I lately use more the very common knives with retractable blades that you can snap off a section. I have a few 9 mm and a couple 18 mm ones and I buy blades in packs of 10. I find them less sharp but I can cut paper, wood and metal and somehow are easier to keep on the line I intend to cut. Since I got a 4mm chisel, I find I use it also quite a lot. 

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Hi- 

I recently bought the Swann-Morton scalpel package on Amazon (below).  I received 100 no. 11 blades, a blade remover, a handle, and most importantly, needle pliers (similar to a hemostat) for handling the insertion of the blades.  I’m quite happy with the purchase.

 

Best, 

John

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DNW2D9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Nautical Research Guild

Model Ship World

"So we beat on, boats against the current, bourne back ceaselessly into the past" F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby

"If at first you don’t succeed.......skydiving is probably not for you”

 

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Anybody contemplating using scalpel blades should consider getting a beefier handle than the stamped metal handles sold for surgery as there is little force used in surgical procedures whereas we tend to exert a bit more force and using the surgical handles gets old real quick.  Borrowed one of those from my wife quickly gave it back and bought the ones shown below.  I use the metal one for fine work and the red one for less critical stuff.  When the metal handle needs a new blade the blade in the red handle is thrown away and it gets the used blade from the metal handle.  The swapped blade is still plenty sharp.  Stropping is routine for blades in my shop.  I still have a bunch of Xacto blades/handles but use the scalpel blades most.

 

Each of the handles below cost less than $7.00 each with the red plastic one costing more than the metal one!    Both were obtained from ebay (with free shipping - the only way I buy on ebay).

 

Kurt

scalpals  small file.jpg

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

CLUBS

Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

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I used scalpels for years to cut moulds and had a variety of handles.  I found the best fit of the snap on handles was in using the Swan Morton blue handle.  I also used a "screw on" handle but can't remember the name.  It held the blade the best but was round and tended to roll on the table.  If I can find it I will take a picture.

The closer you get to Canada, the more things will eat your horses. ~ T. King

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JohnLea I found the best solution for rolling blade handles was to tape a small scrap (i.e. broken toothpick or the like) to the handle opposite the sharp side of the blade. Prevents the handle from rolling and keeps fingers away from the pointy bits 

Carl
 
 
Completed builds: AL Bluenose II 1:75  Gallery
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  • 2 years later...

The best thing its to buy a pack of 100 from AliExpress for a few dollars with shipping .....

a have a pack that I bought something like 3 years ago and still have a lot of them left 

"smooth seas do not make good sailors..."

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