Oostends schipje (Ostend shrimper) by G.L. - scale 1:20, building first POF Edition 2

[G.L.]

14.9

The finished bollard.

[G.L.]

14.10

A bollard glued into its place.

[G.L.]

14.11

The forward bollards

[G.L.]

14.12

There are also four rails for belaying pins on the sides. The shaping of them is done in the same way as the bollards.

[G.L.]

14.13

The forward rails have five holes for belaying pins, the aft three.

[G.L.]

14.14

Gluing the rails in place.

[G.L.]

14.15

The port forward rail with belaying pins. The pins are made as described in my post 12.2.

[Mirabell61]

Very nice handcraft shipbuilding work,

I like the deck planking...

 

Nils

[G.L.]

Thank You Nils.

14.16

Inside the transom there are 2 vertical and 2 horizontal knees as strengthening. The vertical knees:

[G.L.]

14.17

To make a good fit for the horizontal, I make paper templates:

[G.L.]

14.18

The inner transom:

[Wintergreen]

Good fit of the horizontal knee. Well executed 😀

[G.L.]

On ‎30‎-‎1‎-‎2018 at 8:30 AM, Wintergreen said:

Good fit of the horizontal knee. Well executed 😀

Thanks Hakan.

[G.L.]

14.19

With the railing in place, I can make and place the dead eyes
I turn a cylindrical stock in hard wood, I believe it is ipe and make grooves in it, using a round file.

Edited February 4, 2018 by G.L.

[G.L.]

14.20

To be able to drill the holes in equal positions in all the dead eyes I make a little auxiliary tool. I drill a hole with the same diameter as the dead eyes in one side of a hinge. In the opposite side I drill the three holes of the dead eye.

[G.L.]

14.21

To drill de holes I push the wooden disks in the big hole, I turn the hinge upside down an drill out the small holes.

[G.L.]

14.22

To make the dead eye strops, I start with turning a brass wire round the remainder of the hard wooden stock of which I made the dead eyes and I cut it in rings.

[G.L.]

14.23

I file the tops of the cut ends flat and melt a drop of solder tin on it.

[G.L.]

14.24

I solder on both ends a small ring, sliced from a brass tube. Afterwards there is some file work to make both sides equal.

[G.L.]

14.25

For the chain plates I fold the end of a brass strip around a 1,5 mm drill to make a small eye.

[G.L.]

14.26

Both sides of the eye are filed to make space for the eye strop rings.

[G.L.]

14.27

I put a brass nail trough the eye strop and the chain plate rings to fix the dead eye in the strop. The nail is sealed with a drop of tin solder and the excess of the nail is cut.

[G.L.]

14.28

Three chain plates with dead eyes in a row.

[G.L.]

14.29

The chain plates are attached to the bulwark in different angles in the extension of the shrouds. To determine the angle I place a stick in the mast step. With a piece of string at the mast head height it is easy to draw the line of the angle on the bulwark.

[G.L.]

14.30

The chain plates are glued and nailed to the bulwark after they have been blackened.

[G.L.]

14.31

On top of the upper wale there is over the whole length of hull a wooden buffer. It has a half round shape. To give it that shape, I make an scraper.

[G.L.]

14.32

To give it the curved hull shape I use my approved method to make it wet and bend it above a candle flame.

[G.L.]

14.33

The buffer is glued and nailed to the wale. Later the steel nails are replaced by tree nails.

[G.L.]

14.34

In the fore bulwarks there are at both sides 2 holes for the jib sheets. At the outside of the bulwarks the holes are reinforced by a wooden piece. I saw them at the right length and sand them to their shape

[G.L.]

14.35

The holes for the sheets have to be drilled in a forward angle.