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HMS RaceHorse by ZyXuz - FINISHED - Sergal - Scale 1:47


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This ship has a long story to tell :D

 

I ordered it from Cornwall Modelboat, and it was shipped immediately, and reached Malaysia 2 weeks later..

However, when the postman send it to my house there wasn't anyone at home! So, he left a notification message of my parcel.. BUT, in a different mailbox :mellow: which my dad actually sealed it with duct tape (because bees love to nest there..). I've really no idea how he break it..

 

Since we don't use the mailbox anymore.. I thought CMB lost my item, and contacted them several times.. and gave up...

Until 3 months later, I saw a notification message in my mailbox (this time the correct one), with a BIG red "REMINDER" on top!! I was like "WOW!! Miracle!!", and quickly went to my local post office and pick up my item...

 

I sent the same 2 pictures back to CMB to clarify everything!!

 

Anyway, it's here finally..  ^_^

 

Here it is!!

post-3519-0-80257800-1365922241_thumb.jpg

 

And everything is good

I added 10 sets of Cannon with carriages, some Cannon balls, 1 set of gratings, and a bell!

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My DIY clamp!

not really diy actually.. just added a clamp on my tripod ballhead!!

post-3519-0-07188800-1365922570_thumb.jpg

 

And added racquet grip to protect the false keel!

post-3519-0-87624900-1365922584_thumb.jpg

 

This is how it looks like

post-3519-0-20535600-1365922599_thumb.jpg

 

First problem...

Although laser cut, but still not so through..

I haven't cut out the ruddle (on the most right, in case u can't figure out :P), will take it out next time when I am in a good mood :D

post-3519-0-58279400-1365924133_thumb.jpg

 

So, here's my plan..

I want to make an extra hatch on deck, since there's a big empty space!

So, I cut off another 'square' there which is parallel to the bombard docking area..

post-3519-0-12641500-1365924154_thumb.jpg

 

Here it is

post-3519-0-01363600-1365924173_thumb.jpg

 

The main purpose of the hatch is not jz for decoration!! But I want to make a 'signature' in my ship!! :D

By using this!! An old Stamp Seal

A 'board' will be added inside the ship, to hold my signature :)

post-3519-0-77398700-1365924840_thumb.jpg

 

However, when I again put the deck on the bulkhead only I noticed that the half deck (alignment bar) is actually blocking it to see through.. :(

post-3519-0-42170600-1365929164_thumb.jpg

 

So, I removed that part that blocking.. within bulkhead 6 and 7..

post-3519-0-11505700-1365925748_thumb.jpg

Hope this won't cause a big deal in future.. since I can't rely only on the alignment bar to secure all my bulkheads in position

 

Then when i decided to make the board for my signature... I cut myself.. =.=

ON THE VERY FIRST DAY I MAKE THIS SHIP!!!

post-3519-0-23265800-1365926222_thumb.jpg

THIS LITTLE INJURY WILL NOT STOP ME FROM MAKING MY SHIP!!!

 

Ok, anyway... I'll have to stop today... it's really hurt :P

So, I started posting here.. :)

 

Okay, enough for story telling... now I've some question to ask :P

 

Does anyone of you encounter this problem also? The deck doesn't sit perfectly to the bulkhead..

post-3519-0-67124100-1365928285_thumb.jpg

Let's take the right circle as example.. The 'hole' can be easily covered by deck planking, but what about the extensive space created by the bulkhead? It seems hard to be covered by deck planking... Any suggestion?

 

Another one..

post-3519-0-60467400-1365930660_thumb.jpg

How do I solve this? It looks serious... bevel the touching one??

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After healing from that silly cut, it's time to get back to work! 
 
I almost miss out the bulkheads beveling part which is so much important in ship modelling. 
So, this is what I've done. The Sergal instruction shows only first few bulkheads need to be beveled, but I personally think it's best to do all. It doesn't take even 30 minutes after all!! :)
DSC_0038.JPG
 
OK, Let's get back to the signature! Which cost a scar on my big thumb!! :P
I'm placing that right beneath the extra hatch that I make, which is between bulkhead #6 and #7. To make it looks better, I've also made planking within all visible area. 
The rectangular board is where the signature will be! :)
DSC_0043.JPG
 
The stamp seal comes with 3 colours: gold, silver, and red. Since it will be dark inside, so I chose more shiny colours.. gold and silver!!
A breath on the copper seal head + a slight press on wax... oh ya, and a drippy drippy :D
I named it "Planet Z and Its Moon" XD
DSC_0049.JPG
 
So, it's basically how it looks like now.. :)
DSC_0051.JPG

 

Didn't have much time on weekdays.. 

this is basically the progress in one night

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Another one..

attachicon.gifDSC_0017.JPG

How do I solve this? It looks serious... bevel the touching one??

 

You'll find that most ships have a "sheer", where the deck is lower in the middle compared with the fore and aft, a long sweeping curve, and a "camber", where the deck is higher in the middle than at the sides. Think banana.

 

You'll need to clamp/pin/weight the false deck down to the bulkheads, providing they're correctly shaped from the factory (look at the plan's drawings) rather than shimming them up to the deck.

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Day 3
 
Before I started Race Horse building, I've been thinking of making the interior of Captain's Cabin. So, I searched through the net to find one good example.. and here it is!!
2010-06-dollhouse-kupjack-pirates-ship-d
Interior of Captain's Cabin
 
Of course that's no way that I can make such complex cabin, this is just for a reference!! :P
So... Here's the plan!! 
DSC_0052.JPG
Draft on Making Cabin
 
The red shaded area are region that need to be cut off. Part between bulkhead #10 and #11 will be the cabin; while part between #11 and #12 will an empty space between the cabin and the stern window.   
DSC_0029.JPG
Full Size Plan Comparison
 
Comparing to the full scale plan, the window is right within the area.. So, it's workable!! 
 
Now, the stern window part.. which is much more difficult to handle. The reason I remove the area on #13 is because they are blocking the view from the stern window. However, if they are removed, it will cause minimum area for me to apply glue on it, which makes me no way to hold #12!
DSC_0061.JPG
Removing Shaded Region of #13
 
Now you can see how small is that area to hold #12. To solve it, I'll need to make another wood piece increase the surface to stick on #12.
DSC_0092.JPG
Extra Wood to hold #12
 
This extra wood will be placed between the tips of #13.
DSC_0094.JPG
Holding Firm   :D
 
DSC_0125.JPG
#12 On Position
 
DONE!!! 
 
Anyway, #12 is actually temporary.. Because there is no 'holes' to allow people to see through it. I haven't had a clear plan on it yet, maybe I'll need to drill a 3 big holes on it; or I'll directly put the cast metal on! The purpose to put #12 on position temporarily is to give body planking a set point.
 
However, there's another issue here... the cast metal stern window doesn't fit perfectly! I have currently no idea on solving this. Anyway, I think that the double planking will cover that empty part. Let's put it aside first.
 
DSC_0060.JPG
This Is So Not Good
 
So, after all these planning and cutting I can finally put my bulkhead on!! In my case, I used a rubik's cube pieces to help them set in right angle.  :)
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Rubik's Cube Pieces to Help Positioning Bulkheads
 
How it looks like now
 
DSC_0086.JPG
All Bulkheads in Position
 
DSC_0087.JPG
O.K.
 
 
- End of Day 3 -

 

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Day 4

 
As mentioned in the previous day, the cabin sits between bulkhead #10 and #11 where only very limited space for me to design it. I drew plan to make sure everything sits right:
DSC_0095.JPG
Draft on Captain's Cabin
 
So, I've only 49mm * 25mm of space for me to include everything into the cabin!!! This is going to be very challenging!! :D
 
I started with the table first. Since I still kept all leftover wood pieces of my Black Pearl making, it makes my work easier... 
No big issue on making the table.. around 20mm * 8mm.
And then, the chair..
DSC_0098.JPG
The Chair, Tiniest Among All
 
Making the chair is the HARDEST part!!!   :angry:
To make sure all these furnitures looks in ratio, the chair's seat needs to be only at 4mm * 4mm, and its legs at 1mm * 1mm!! The tiniest wood strips I have is only 1mm * 2mm, in which I'll have to cut them in two!! It took me around 30 minutes to complete this, with few breaking wood strips..
 
The Map!
DSC_0101.JPG
'Map' Dip with Coffee to Give Vintage Effect
 
I've also made a map (ok, just a paper.. :P) to fill the table. In order to give it a vintage effect, I added some flavours (IPOH White Coffee) on it :D
I canceled my cabinet planning, and replaced it with a mirror. This idea came out when I was eating snack for my breakfast, which the inside of plastic bag is a good reflective body. :)
DSC_0102.JPG
Mirror with Stands Using Previous Ship's Material
 
The stands are the leftover pinrail material from the Black Pearl, which I think suitable for this too. 
 
To fill up the big empty space on the port side, I added another pole hanger. It is made by using one copper nail as its pole, and copper rings as the hangers. It really took me sometimes to glue the hangers on the pole...
DSC_0129.JPG
Pole Hanger Beside the Table
 
For the bed.. Too sad that I've forgotten to take photo on its progress.. It's done by using a 4mm thick wood piece, and few small pieces to tissue papers. I put a folded tissue beneath first, to make a 'bulge' effect, and then only 'wrapped' the whole thing up as a bed sheet. 
For the pillow, I cut out a long 'tissue-strip' and wrap it up at one end of a wood strip. Glued it, and then cut off the end of the strip. :)
DSC_0119.JPG
Captain's Cabin As Seen to Stern Side
 
Take a close look, and you'll see a pen in a container on the table!! :lol:  The container is made by a spanker bead from my Black Pearl; while the pen is made by a refill of mechanical pencil! :)
Take a clear look again!!! YES, I made another chair to fill up the space!!! 
 
Now left only a door to complete.. 
 
It's done by using the removed part from the half deck.. I added planks on it, and drilled a hole as sash of door, and then a nail as door knob! :)
DSC_0122.JPG
Door to Captain's Cabin
 
So, it's how it looks like now!!! ^^
DSC_0124.JPG
The Captain's Cabin
 
I can finally proceed to the most fun part of ship modelling... PLANKING!!
- End of Day 4 -

 

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I started my 1st planking since last Sunday, and it took me around 20 hours!! Anyway, it's so much fun!!

 

First Temporary Batten

DSC_0132.JPG

 

Front View

DSC_0134.JPG

 

I don't think I started it real smoothly.. here's one example :(

I've over tapered here..

Anyway, it can be easier covered by wood filler..

 

Over Tapering Aftermath

DSC_0140.JPG

 

Worrying the result turns worse, I stopped here and continued on the garboard plank part..

 

Garboard Planking

DSC_0150.JPG

 

Same step is carried on until they touched each other at the bow side..

So, now it's time to fill up the center part..

Well, I saw this picture from another forum.. it's in Czech

 

IMG_2069.jpg

 

I followed the method above, since the Rule of Thumb says tapering cannot exceed half of the plank original width... and the result is quite satisfying :)

 

Following the Rule of Thumb

DSC_0166.JPG

 

This method really took me some times..  ;)

 

Stem side

DSC_0167.JPG

 

Then, the stern

DSC_0173.JPG

 

I filled them up using some stealer planks, full and half..

DSC_0176.JPG

 

20 hours after the 1st plank is positioned..  ^_^ DSC_0178.JPG

 

You can actually see a 'hole' there at the stern side!! LOL

I trimmed the woods too early before I know they will need to cover that part!! :P

 

Stem Side

DSC_0179.JPG

 

Stern Side

DSC_0186.JPG

 

Just when I about to start the wood filling, I found this.. zzz

 

post-3519-0-48664000-1367110983_thumb.jpg

This is the deck planking I done last time during my spare time, and see? They turned yellow!! 

It is caused by my cheap adhesive.. 3 pieces (9g) for just RM1.20 (less than US$0.40!!!)

And since the deck planking is using thinner wood strips (0.5mm), so it made the result more obvious..

I think I'll need to change a better brand before I start my 2nd planking

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After woodfilling and sanding she will look great. Just in time you note that the cheap adhesive will ruin your planking, a blessing in disguise ;)  

 

Regards,

John

yea, and I just bought a new adhesive..

 

just done sanding and filling.. now working on 2nd layer :)

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No too big issue here on the 2nd layer planking, since I was just following the 1st layer.. :)

Anyway, I think that I forced the wood strip a bit and caused a 'flaw' at the middle part..

DSC_0194.JPGPort Side (A Flaw Can Be Seen at the Middle)

I also scribed the wood strips using a 8B pencil, that's why you can see obvious black between woods. :)

DSC_0196.JPG
Stem

DSC_0198.JPG
Starboard

Here you can see the flaw more obvious from the picture below..
Anyway, comparing to the full scale plan.. the wale will just cover it! :)

DSC_0200.JPG
Wale Will Cover That Flaw

After sanding with 320 and 600 grit, I then continued on staining my ship. I bought a Dark Walnut, and a clear gloss stain in order to get my desirable color.. As shown in picture below, from top to bottom: Dark Walnut, 50/50 Mix of Dark Walnut + Clear Gloss, Clear Gloss.

DSC_0207.JPG
Second One as My Ship's Colour

I chose the 2nd one as my ship's stain colour, which look pretty similar as the picture on the box... anyway, a nightmare began!!

When I swiped my brush across my ship, some portion just didn't 'bite' the stain!! And cause all these big freckles on it.. HELP!!!

DSC_0213.JPG

 

I think they are caused by the excessive glue that applied earlier, and I tried sanding them and stained again the next day.. however, it still return me the same result.. :(

 

Any suggestion?

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ZyXuz,

 

I have the same kit, I purchased it five years ago from Model Expo.  It currently is about number four on my build list.   I plan to follow your build in order to get important building tipf for future use.  I look forward to following your build, keep up the nice work!

 

Cheers,

Tim

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Timothy Wood, on 07 May 2013 - 12:27 AM, said:

ZyXuz,

 

I have the same kit, I purchased it five years ago from Model Expo. It currently is about number four on my build list. I plan to follow your build in order to get important building tipf for future use. I look forward to following your build, keep up the nice work!

 

Cheers,

Tim

thanks!! hope my build log helps! :)
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I chose the 2nd one as my ship's stain colour, which look pretty similar as the picture on the box... anyway, a nightmare began!!

When I swiped my brush across my ship, some portion just didn't 'bite' the stain!! And cause all these big freckles on it.. HELP!!!DSC_0213.JPG

 

I think they are caused by the excessive glue that applied earlier, and I tried sanding them and stained again the next day.. however, it still return me the same result.. :(

 

Any suggestion?

Hello ZyXuz,

 

I had the same problem, but on the innerside of the bulwarks. I didn't removed the dust andused too much glue, which I didn't sand correctly. And I didn't use any wood conditioner.

 

Wood dust from sanding will cause problems if it's not removed from the surface before staining. Dry rags or brushes aren't the most effective tools for removing dust. Instead, use a tack cloth, a sticky piece of cheesecloth made especially for this purpose. Wipe the folded tack cloth across the wood to remove dust. As each side becomes saturated with dust, refold the cloth to expose a fresh surface. Tack cloths are available at hardware stores.

 

Did you use any wood conditioner? A number of soft woods aren't conducive to stained finishes. To help even out the color when working with new, bare woods such as pine, fir, maple and birch, try using a pre-stain wood conditioner. These conditioners are designed to penetrate into the wood and allow the stain to absorb more evenly when it is applied later.

 

Sometimes it is also necessary to degrease the wood before you put any finish on it.

Degreasing the wood also removes the dust. What to use for degreasing depends on the sort of wood you are using.

 

I don't know if it is necessary or advisable to sand the hull again and start over. I really don't know what the effect from sanding the hull again will be. You need an experts advise on this. Either from a member of this forum or from your local hobby or hardware store.

 

Please also look for tips on this forum. you may even ask your question there.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/21-painting-finishing-and-weathering-products-and-techniques/

 

I'm sorry I can't solve your problem instantly, but I do hope you will get an answer soon.

 

Good luck and take care,

 

Anja

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Hello ZyXuz,

 

I had the same problem, but on the innerside of the bulwarks. I didn't removed the dust andused too much glue, which I didn't sand correctly. And I didn't use any wood conditioner.

 

Wood dust from sanding will cause problems if it's not removed from the surface before staining. Dry rags or brushes aren't the most effective tools for removing dust. Instead, use a tack cloth, a sticky piece of cheesecloth made especially for this purpose. Wipe the folded tack cloth across the wood to remove dust. As each side becomes saturated with dust, refold the cloth to expose a fresh surface. Tack cloths are available at hardware stores.

 

Did you use any wood conditioner? A number of soft woods aren't conducive to stained finishes. To help even out the color when working with new, bare woods such as pine, fir, maple and birch, try using a pre-stain wood conditioner. These conditioners are designed to penetrate into the wood and allow the stain to absorb more evenly when it is applied later.

 

Sometimes it is also necessary to degrease the wood before you put any finish on it.

Degreasing the wood also removes the dust. What to use for degreasing depends on the sort of wood you are using.

 

I don't know if it is necessary or advisable to sand the hull again and start over. I really don't know what the effect from sanding the hull again will be. You need an experts advise on this. Either from a member of this forum or from your local hobby or hardware store.

 

Please also look for tips on this forum. you may even ask your question there.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/21-painting-finishing-and-weathering-products-and-techniques/

 

I'm sorry I can't solve your problem instantly, but I do hope you will get an answer soon.

 

Good luck and take care,

 

Anja

Thanks Anja!

I've searched through the link you suggested here, and googled for more options.. and seems like I've no way to repair it, but to resend it and stain again..

 

Before this I've already learned that pre-stain conditioner will help on staining, but I didn't purchase it because the smallest size in my local store is way too big for me! 30+ Oz!!

 

Well, here's the result... still not so satisfying, but at least it already covered those major defects especially those corner parts..

post-3519-0-17751800-1368016803_thumb.jpg

Port

 

post-3519-0-32481300-1368017264_thumb.jpg

Starboard

 

There will be 2 blue stripes running along the middle part of the hull. Let's hope it can help on 'covering' the remaining defects..

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Day 13

 

After fixing the stain, I continued on the deck planking while waiting the stain to dry.

Same method as the hull planking is used, I scribed one side of the woods using an 8B pencil to give better details.

 

DSC_0204.JPG

Deck Planking

 

DSC_0202.JPG

Top View

 

 

Treenails are also added using mechanical pencil, and finally a natural stain on it to provide protection. Inboard plankings are also done up till now..

 

DSC_0235.JPG

Treenail

 

Now the Bulwark.. I will need to cut the gun ports out before I can apply colour on it. I transferred the distance between gunports from the full scale plan provided, mark them on a piece of long cardboard to get better accuracy.

 

DSC_0228.JPG

Bulwark's Gunports

 

I drilled around 4-6 holes at both sides first, to help cutting them out.

 

DSC_0231.JPGGunports

 

 

- End of Day 13 -

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Day 14

Since my ship's color turned darker after 2nd staining, I've decided to give my Race Horse a Navy Blue coat to give better contrast.

DSC_0238.JPG

Result after 7 hours!!! Setting the wales really time consuming..

DSC_0249.JPGStarboard

DSC_0251.JPG

Port

 

If you look closely, you can see that I've overdone the lower stripe to black.. :P


-End of Day 14-

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello ZyXuz,

 

I'm back for another look at your Race Horse.

 

Yes, I was afraid you would have to resand the hull again. But it turned out good in the end.

And we both learned a lesson to use pre-stain or wood conditioner first.

 

The dark colour of the hull is a nice contrast with the blue/white.

 

Looking forward to your progress.

 

Take care,

 

Anja

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Day 15 to 22

It has been awhile since the last post.. 
I've been working on all the deck fittings till late night, that's why I didn't have much time to add post here..

Anyway, I haven't glue my poop deck on because I'll need to wait for my LED to arrive before I can start..

Windows
Since I've interior for my captain's cabin, so I'll need to cut out holes so that it can be viewed from outside.

 

DSC_0255.JPG
Side Windows

DSC_0256.JPG
Seeing Through

The same steps are carried on on the stern windows.

Gratings
I purchased extra gratings to fill up the empty space on my main deck between the 2 bombards, and it is set as the same size as the bombard base.

 

DSC_0261.JPG

Frame is also added with leftover walnut planks. the 'drain racks' at both side will hold the bombard shots!! :)
DSC_0265.JPG
I've also made another 4 racks to put them besides the 2 bombards!

Rudder
Rudder with rudder hinges fitted. I did not hammer the nails, instead I used a long nose plier to push them in.

DSC_0264.JPG
Rudder with Hinges

Bits & Pin Racks
This is the worst part of the week!
In the beginning, I thought all the bits will be provided by the kit, carved and done!! Not until I read the instruction of making all these bits... :(

So, what the kit actually provides is just a long 500 *4 *4mm walnut strip...

DSC_0267.JPG

Belaying Pin Racks

DSC_0270.JPG
Parapet Bits

 

Making these really testing my patience... and wearing my blade..

 

DSC_0284.JPG


 

All of 4*4mm Walnut

Done! and it's time to change a new blade!! XD

 

Metal Blackening & Bombards
This is my first time doing metal blackening, and it was fun!! :)
I used Blacken-it as my solution, and it worked quite well!!

I made a mixture of 50:50 solution and water.. hot and boiling water!! 
Hot water really help quickening the process, you can get an obvious result within a minute!!

 

DSC_0275.JPG
Before

DSC_0279.JPG

In Progress

DSC_0282.JPG
After!!

 

Yea.. the 2nd picture you're seeing right now is the result after 30 seconds!! Anyway, I still let them there for around an hour or a half.

I actually did it twice, because the first attempt did not give a very satisfying result (rusty feel). So, on my second attempt, I made mixture of 40 water, 60 solution, and the 3rd pic is the result I get. :)

DSC_0287.JPG
Bombard Completed

Hatch
The hatches at the poop deck.. I added nails as door knobs.

 

DSC_0033.JPG
Hatches

With all these deck fittings done, I can finally put them on my ship.. It's how it looks now!!

DSC_0304.JPG
Deck Fittings Done

DSC_0303.JPG
Bombards with Shots

Again, the poop deck is not glued yet, I just put them on for few shots.. still waiting my LEDs to arrive.



-End-

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Day 23

I was tidying up all my ship stuffs after working it one night, and when I digged out all stuffs at the bottom of the box of my kit, and OMG!!! I found one thing that I've totally forgotten.. The Bell!!

Bell & Belfry
So, quickly I searched through the net for examples of belfry as references.. and this is what I've made!! :)

DSC_0310.JPG

Belfry

 

The columns are those leftovers from my beloved Pearl. Two 1mm thick of maple strips (leftover from 1st layer hull planking) are stacked up, and then another strip as bridge to hold them together. :) And, the shaft is made from fuse wire.. thin enough to cross through the crown of the bell.

 

Well, the flat head really doesn't look good.. So, I added a 'hat' for it! It is made of 3 * 1mm thick maple strips, and beveled at both ends. And, the shaft is painted to black.
 

DSC_0315.JPG

Belfry After Staining

 

Now, where should I place it??? Hmm... normally it should be at the main deck, but my main deck is currently tightly occupied.. but putting it on poop or front deck looks weird..
Anyway, here's a shot of how it's look like on deck! :)

DSC_0002.JPG

Belfry on Deck

 

Err... any comment on the position?? :P it really looks tight there! :D

Light & Lantern

As previously mentioned, I am still waiting for my LEDs to arrive.. however, I actually already bought 'lamps' to light up my cabin but it's just not bright enough.. That's why I'll need to buy LEDs to replace it.. and IT's tritium!

 

The main reason I wanted to use tritium to light up my ship is because of its durability, in which it is able to light up for 25 years!!! You just have no idea whether you'll be able to see it goes off alive!! :D In case you never heard of tritium: it is quite frequently used in military purposes, for example night vision on weapons; while for household application, watches.

DSC_0292.JPG

Tritium Vials

 

Tritium is costly. I bought 10 of them, and it cost me nearly USD$100!!!
I tested it at night with all the lights in my room turned off and taken this shot..

DSC_0298.JPG

Light From the Cabin

 

3 vials are placed RIGHT surrounding each window, in this case 6 vials are already used for the side windows, and there won't be enough for the stern ones (3 windows). This shot is taken in long exposure of 30s, and I swiped my phone flash over the ship during the exposure. If I don't do that, you'll be just seeing the light..

 

OK, the result here looks kinda satisfying but it's really different in real life. The light is already not noticeable from ~3m distance, without any presence of other light source in the same room!! Moreover, 3 vials for each window is just so not worth doing, that's why I changed my mind to replace them with LEDs.

 

So, instead of wasting them, I planned to make them lanterns on deck! :)

DSC_0020.JPG

Column's Head and Base Cut Off

 

Again, by using the column from my Pearl, I cut off the head and base of the column as the head and base of my lantern. :) I then drilled a 1.5mm diameter (diameter of the tritium vial) hole on both the head and foot, and pinned 4 more holes at the 4 corners of the foot. These 4 small holes will be where the columns of lantern set, like this:

 

DSC_0014.JPG

Lantern of Tritium Vial

 

The eye on top is made by the thinnest fuse wire.

 

The first one really took me some times until I came up with this idea, and my patience just allowed me to make another 2 on the same day. :P

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The Three Brothers

 

How it's look at night.

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Lanterns At Night

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Brightness Comparison

 

Here you can see the brightness comparison of tritium with my laptop's notification lights..



-End of Day 23-

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Hello ZyXuz,

 

That is some fast and wonderful progress you've made.

 

The close-up pictures of your hull are beautiful. Very nice painting job.

Your deck furniture looks absolutely great.

 

Well done. I look forward to your progress.

 

Take care,

 

Anja

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Hello ZyXuz,

 

That is some fast and wonderful progress you've made.

 

The close-up pictures of your hull are beautiful. Very nice painting job.

Your deck furniture looks absolutely great.

 

Well done. I look forward to your progress.

 

Take care,

 

Anja

Thanks!!

you really motivated me ;)

 

I like the scale of this model.  You can add a lot of detailing.

Indeed.. I still have cannons to add..

They are on their way from the UK :)

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