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Hr.Ms. De Ruyter by amateur - Scaldis/JSC - 1:250 - Card

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12 hours ago, amateur said:

 

with respect to the railings: I have the laser cut set, but that one is made for the camouflage version, so the numbering is a bit of a puzzle.....

 

Jan

Blast! I'll have a look through my collected parts paperwork and see if I have anything left from my build of the De Ruyter that will help you. The chances are slim, though, since I recently moved town for a new position and the house we moved into was a bit smaller so we had to throw a lot of stuff away, which might very well have included old build plans. When I did the build report for the Modelspace site, I do remember that I used to take a shot of the parts on card before cutting, which showed the part numbers and then the parts cut out and assembled. It's not ideal, but you could look through that build log to find out what part so-and-so is with the newer kit. But since the newer kit had been extensively redesigned you might probably find that the fit is not that great on the older version anyway. 😥 Sorry that I couldn't be more helpful. I take it you don't want to ask Sint for a copy of the newer version and start again?

 

Adrie.

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3 hours ago, amateur said:

No, starting twice is not what I want to do.

I'll check to see what can be used, and do not use the remainder.

I do not quite lije this type of laser cut, the HMV version, far more fragile, looks better.

 

Jan

To be honest, I don't think I would have done so either. But be assured of my continued support!

 

As for HMV laser cut, I have never used them myself. But I didn't really have any issues with the de Ruyter laser cut set. Apart from it being difficult to add midway through the build, like I did. But you can't really blame the laser cut set for that, really. Never the less, keep going, Jan! I'll be rooting for you!

 

Adrie.

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Nice subject for a build, Jan. Rather fitting ... hope you don't mind I tag along

 

19 hours ago, amateur said:

In my current building speed this will get me almost till my retirement :)

Quite, what about the woodenb builds ...?

 

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My wooden builds are gathering dust :)

 

today I did some small stuff. The larger building blocks are done, detailing does cost a bit more time.

 

IMG_0695.thumb.JPG.78f399443f76cbaab98b719ab92295ba.JPG

The first parts for the firecontrol (or whatever, used for the anti aircraft guns)

IMG_0152.jpg.84436d985214eccc0337f6e0ef3c04b5.jpg

IMG_0531.jpg.3ce4abd8dc345aafcc9531fefb48f2ad.jpg

second thought: no tabsIMG_0532.jpg.ed9b764f5a2bc06980729c9e780d213e.jpg

IMG_0533.jpg.2978f8a8f991bff0028ebc20eb9ce350.jpg

(There is an error here, but I am not inclined to correct it :) )

 

the aircraft platform: (with some weight to keep it in pl-ace while the glue sets)

IMG_0534.jpg.77f10869ca8aa598eec5bd93c355c72b.jpg

 

IMG_0535.jpg.1a790c43231f4e30869eaccf4da1d1db.jpg

two skylight. Looks OK from this distance, but don' go anywhere near ;) 

 

And finally: the last page that wasn't used till now.

these are the gun-towers. Lots of tabs (needed this time), and a rather complex way glued rings to get the towers movable) 

IMG_0536.thumb.jpg.db1243dc32300f932d6676d24ec652a1.jpg

 

you get the point of the ship being undergunned  when looking at these towers: this is all there is with respect to guns.

 

Jan

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by amateur

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On 11/25/2018 at 8:53 PM, FingerSticker said:

I do remember that I used to take a shot of the parts on card before cutting, which showed the part numbers and then the parts cut out and assembled.

I go one better - I Scan and Save every sheet of parts as soon as I get the kit. That way I can not only find the odd part which I've already cut out (now what DID it look like?? :D) but if something doesn't work properly I can print out a new page (or just the part itself) and re-make it.

 

Danny

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Small update.

 

today I did the catapult. I had some issues: the thing is a long box-like structure, and the folds were not completely parallel. It needed some persuasion to become straight....

IMG_566.jpg.a371db3d7e66c84a77416d9b0f4847fd.jpg

 

Scaldis made the thing turnaboe (like the gun turrets), using a system of rings and circles to be glued togethet. It works, but I wonder how often I will turn this thing :)

 

IMG_0576.jpg.38f636edc1c4ab5e05e8b49d35eb1914.jpg

 

finally, it turned out that it did not fit as it should. I can't get it in its own position: you can see s light ring of white aft of the base. Problem is the deck that sticks slightly too much forward (1.5 mm....). I have to think: paint the deck, or turn it sideways and stick it in the right position, or try to remove the deck....

 

IMG_0577.jpg.38a0a1849b52e547c0f6c682f9843323.jpg

See...? It touches, while there shoul be a space....

IMG_0578.jpg.8afb1bebc96bd7295f38a70fb1cd025e.jpg

 

Jan

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Sometimes thinking results in a solution....

 

I removed both ends of the catapult (wich were glued using tabes, and therefore stood a bit outside the box, and replaced them with a small rectangle of the spare grey cardboard that is included. This resulted in 1. A more crisp looking end, and 2. Slightly more clearance.

 

IMG_213.jpg.d9193cb4a2244c31773df4c006a1ef27.jpg

IMG_0580.jpg.b879318d8af8a53b36ae2b18bd66b429.jpg

 

both pucs show the result. Tehy show also smething else: the scaldis card does not like 90-degree folds and too much handling: in both cases the coloured top-layer either breaks or comes loose at the corners...

 

Jan

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10 hours ago, amateur said:

both pucs show the result. Tehy show also smething else: the scaldis card does not like 90-degree folds and too much handling: in both cases the coloured top-layer either breaks or comes loose at the corners...

 

Jan

 

Hoi Jan,

I remember this from my build as well. You might be able to reduce the problem by scoring from the back, i.e. instead of making a valley fold you make a mountain fold. If the lip or tab is to be folded backwards, as is most often the case, then it is often better to mark the fold position from the front (printed side) of the card by pressing down with the the point of your awl in line with the fold line and then turn the card over and score the section from depression to depression at the back of the card. This will reduce the damage/disturbance of the printed layer.

 

Here are some pictures of a quickly drawn example part with tabs. The last two pictures show the damage done to the card by scoring at the front (penultimate picture) and the back (last picture).

 

IMG_3177.JPG.80a8578e23291d9d9beab4eeb260dba5.JPGIMG_3178.JPG.2d786174dae581224369eaccbd2ae51a.JPGIMG_3179.JPG.89cb34496a793813d0e8d90c391defff.JPGIMG_3180.JPG.1879189aefe982a2d3a400de381b1b44.JPGIMG_3181.JPG.7316b7c4dda8dc582834c6f57d0052e6.JPGIMG_3182.JPG.c18efffddfe838fcbcaaa0c0a732bfdc.JPGIMG_3183.JPG.59c1c4812dd791599fff5d474b68199e.JPGIMG_3184.JPG.a2bb18b8b69c4f0dc20107c101d0be05.JPG

I tend to remember it like this. If the part is to be folded BACKwards (away from you), the fold must be done at the BACK.

 

I hope this will help.

 

 

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Hi Adrie,

 

thanks for the suggestion. Does require some practice and trial. my first folds where far off the folding line :) (and did you start closing revenges hull without showing in your buildlog?)

 

Today I did the first guntower (of a total of four). The Ruyter was a bit undergunned: she had a total of 7 guns, of a 15 cm caliber.

Three towers with two, and one with only one gun. The standard practice of three guns per tower was discussed, but deemed to expensive.

 

The guntowers can be turned and the guns can be elevated. Why you should want to do, I don't know, but I succeeded in realizing the mechanism. :)

 

pics are self-explaining.

 

IMG_0152.jpg.be95741e3b7d23f92a1b590a0343af4a.jpg

IMG_0582.jpg.91b333b2a1587041165c902d2abd9725.jpg

IMG_0583.jpg.dd6bb7be114cc9c6331e37747c8dc9f3.jpg

IMG_0584.jpg.070a988fe924be5578af159748828bdf.jpg

IMG_0585.jpg.01c3ba9d44e4feb27a8fcef13de54325.jpg

IMG_0586.jpg.d923971dd72d14bf765353229c7f8822.jpg

IMG_0587.jpg.b03a8002073cf4d69440b8169bf109b3.jpg

IMG_0588.jpg.3b7535ba6224586ddd090a854c533f9e.jpg

 

aThe guns look tiny, but to be honest: at this scale they even should be slightly thinner. Rolling card is not the easiest way to get the thickness right: only after the whole thing is glued, you can see the thickness....

 

Jan

Edited by amateur

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Hi Marcus,

 

for tips and tricks you should turn to the buildlog of chris (ccoyle). He did an excelent one for starters in card (torpedoship V108).

Danny's buildlogs of large battleships also contain lots of usefull tips and tricks.

 

Jan

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1 hour ago, amateur said:

Hi Adrie,

 

thanks for the suggestion. Does require some practice and trial. my first folds where far off the folding line :) (and did you start closing revenges hull without showing in your buildlog?)

 

Today I did the first guntower (of a total of four). The Ruyter was a bit undergunned: she had a total of 7 guns, of a 15 cm caliber.

Three towers with two, and one with only one gun. The standard practice of three guns per tower was discussed, but deemed to expensive.

What can I say, Jan. It was a work in progress ...  No, it still IS a work in progress. 😥

 

But you're welcome, re: the suggestion. And don't worry about it taking time to perfect. In a couple of weeks it will become second nature to you. well, it took me a couple of months and since I'm not the fastest kid on the blocks by far....... 😉.

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23 hours ago, amateur said:

The guntowers can be turned and the guns can be elevated. Why you should want to do, I don't know

Because you can :D. When you start fitting all the small pieces to the decks around them you'll be glad you can move the barrels out of the way ;).

 

Danny

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Caught up with your build Jan.  Very nice work and that considering you seem to be wrestling with a difficult manufacturer and card.

As you progressed with this build you did better at each step.  The end result should be a nice model.  Keep at it my friend.

You and your family have a great 2019.

 

Cheers,

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Posted (edited)

Hi Jan,

Card works fast and easy, but it definitely needs some experience. Perhaps you should have done a scratch build small vessel to get to know the material. At least it saves you the trouble with not-fitting connections. And straight lines are killing... It works much friendlier towards you if you make a model nobody can criticize as there is no image of what the end result should look like.

If you want I can send you some draughts for scratch building. You will discover a completely different world. 🙂

Ab

Edited by Ab Hoving

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Hi Ab,

 

I still dont know whether I want to go scratch with card. 

I have seen your buildlogs, and the results from card are great, but I started this ship from a kit because I can't see myself build it just from a drawing.....

 

On the other hand, I very much like the smaller dutch ships, and card may be a way of building those. 

 

Jan

 

 

 

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Yesterday, I did the last of the 'big' guns.

IMG_0603.jpg.6da0c9a2e524b854be02a353bb2a6448.jpg

(note to self: mind the quality of the backgrond :) )

 

and one up-front (taken agains the light, so again not a wonder of fotography ;) )

IMG_70879683.jpg.0c28aa003180c4cb82810c1f86985904.jpg

 

The politicians who had to decide on the armament decided that this configuration was almost as good as two triple towers, because from a distance this did actually look like a tripple tower.(at least, sothe story goes). 

I very much like the lines and design of the ship, but as a ship of war, she wasn't very impressive. You can see that thinking on warfare in the Netherlands around the second worldwar more or less dated back to the thinking shortlybefore the first world war. This ship is just a minor update from the cruiser Java, while the rest of the world had made large advances. (Same holds for the Dutch army: you don't beleive your eyses when you see what equipment our biys had in 1940 when the German army crossed the border)

 

Jan

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Three hours work..... none of them completely as I would like to see it, but OK, no one will ever look at the macro's.....

IMG_694.jpg.d8082273194ee3a072990a067bec7efa.jpg

IMG_0607.jpg.ab1ac3ffd01476ff9e05080ee7cfd72f.jpg

IMG_0608.jpg.5041aa38c8e0259c2810c73995185b4c.jpg

Pics still out of focus :(

Next are some capstans, but the "instructions" just say: put parts 148-155 together and place them on the deck.

 

ah well, we will see. Next weekend, as tomorrow is a day without buildingtime.

 

Jan

Edited by amateur

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7 hours ago, amateur said:

Three hours work..... none of them completely as I would like to see it, but OK, no one will ever look at the macro's.....

Ahum .... well ... unfortunately ... I am presently ... maybe do a step back and refocus ...? So far you have done a good job

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THANK YOU for sharing this build along with all of its trials and tribulations. i am about to start my first card model and reading through this has been very informative. i will start my own build log soon. in the meantime- great work, well documented

kirk

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