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Antonio Vasquez

U.S.S. Constitution by Antonio Vasquez - Revell - scale 1/96 - plastic

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you'll have more control than with a spray can.   what brand is it?   I have a Spraycraft gravity feed that I haven't used yet.   practice with it.......you'l get comfortable using it ;)    nice bit of painting there ;) 

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I am trying to attach the galley stern to the hull. The bottom part by the rudder has about a 1/32” gap so I know it’s not going to glue right. Should I buy some putty or would an epoxy or JB weld work better. I have been using wood filler for uneven spots but I don’t think it’s works well for gaps.

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on plastic models,  wood filler is not always best. it will tend to crack over time.   it doesn't stick to plastic very well either.    Testor's and Tamiya have a plastic putty......there are other brands out there as well.

    the transom / counter part has always been a problem with these models..very hard to fit correctly.

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 I broke off a lot of the Belaying pins on my last plastic build.  I decided to try to make me a small fife rail to  accommodate some 6 mm be laying pins that I ordered.  I’m having a very hard time however holding onto and work the small wooden pieces.  I don’t want to use small vice grips or my hemostats because I’m afraid of leaving marks on the word. What do you guys who  work on wooden models use to grip those small pieces?

C602699B-58A0-4ECB-9711-35DF4E843EDE.jpeg

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Hello Antonio

I don't know about other people but I have an old pair of crossover tweezers that I like to use for stuff like that. I have had them so long that I don't even know where I got them but they are something like this:

CIR%20335-5188.jpg?width=200

 

Hope that may be of use to you as well.

 

Lou

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I just use clothes pins........I flip the wood parts over on the spring ,  and it give it an  inverted look                                                                                                                        

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The clothespin system works well for holding regular stuff like for painting. but for tiny stuff like Antonio was showing they can be a little clumsy unless you cut the tip WAY down to a point. I would use them if that was all I had, if for no other reason other than they will not leave a mark on the wood, but i still think tweezers are better as they are a little more delicate in their application and easier to use on tiny parts.

 

Lou   

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I need to figure a different way of doing these rails. I was sanding the flash off of one as gently as possible and it broke. I knew when I removed the piece from the sprue that those rails were going to get broken. I tried to cut a piece of red oak on my table saw the same size as the top rail. But it didn’t turn out very well. The wood had a large grain and the piece looked really rough when I was done. I wonder if anyone has done these rails a different way?

692D351E-9ECE-47B8-8FC1-CE14DAE16249.jpeg

DC6429DF-C039-4F15-991D-FC205F98522E.jpeg

78C54CED-3638-4472-8A2A-1D3373D21015.jpeg

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Hi Antonio

 

You might go back to brass rod like you used in the hammock frames. Then you could possibly try a finer grain wood sanded smooth for the cap rail.

 

Lou

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May I humbly  suggest that you look at using soldered brass strip.  If you pre-tin the top rail and make a simple jig you should be able to put this together pretty easily even if you are new to soldering.  Much stronger result and once painted shouldn't look out of place.  IHTH  I am so enjoying your build and your ship looks beautiful.

 

Dan

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