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Granado by RMC - Caldercraft - 1:64

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Jason: I think you're right.  More contrast is needed between the lower stays and those above.  Thanks for taking the time to comment.

 

All the best, Bob.

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Progress is glacial.  The ratlines for the mainmast shrouds are now done and some progress has been made on the mizzen ratlines.  My computer went berserk with an update of Windows 10 which didn't help.  Here are the port ratlines for the mainmast.  Fortunately the ones on the other side are exactly the same.

 

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The ratlines for the lower mast shrouds are finally complete.  Those for the upper masts are underway.  It's very tedious.  I'm looking at any excuse not to do them - even to attacking the bougainvillias which unfortunately fight back. I have the scars. Here are the ratlines for the port lower mizzen.  Both sides came out quite well.

 

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Thanks Jason.  It makes my enthusiasm for the job sag a bit less.  At least now it's almost finished.😊

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The ratlines are finally finished. They came out quite well, but it's certainly not the most interesting thing I've ever done.  The following photos shown the port main mast shrouds.  Fortunately the other side looks much the same.

 

I hope everyone remains safe and healthy at this difficult time. 

Best wishes, Bob

 

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The stays, but for the main to gallant stay, are complete, but not finally tied off.   If the stays are tied off as you go, it's likely that one or more will adversely affect the tautness of the stays that have already been finished.  I suggest leaving them until all are complete but for the tying, then each one may be adjusted so that they do not have any effect on the others.   Then all are finally tied off at the same time. I hope all of this makes sense.😊

 

Good luck and good health to all.

 

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The hearts turned out to be difficult.  I have done it in a way that is not strictly accurate. The lashing here will be tied off to the stay.  Evidently the last strand of the lashing should be seized to the penultimate one.  The way I have done it prevents an outbreak of bad temper, and I hope it will not be noticed.

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Good tip tying off the stays.

I have struggled for years with this problem and, it can be a real problem.

Balancing standing rigging can be a frustrating.

Thanks for a quality build, excellent posts and good photo's.

 

Regards and keep well,

 

Sam

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Other things have intruded on boat building recently.  However here is some progress.  All of the various main stays are complete and tied off, as are the mizzen, and mizzen topmast stays.  They have come out reasonably well.  The bowsprit shrouds  and bobstays are complete and tied off. 

 

I have had some problems with some of the backstays.  For a few, the Syren thread has twisted which results in the top deadeyes being at a noticeable angle to the bottom deadeyes.  I can find no reason for it.  All of the stays have been treated in exactly the same way.  I have experimented by giving one or two the opposite twist, clamping it, then running very dilute PVA down their length.  I then left them to dry overnight and the problem seems to be solved.  Now for the rest.

 

Best of luck and good health to all.

 

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In the following photo the main topmast stay has been caught underneath the collar.  This has been fixed.

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The rigging for bowsprit shrouds and bobstays is all rather crowded.

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Hi Bob

Your rope works look excellent - the Syren thread is a tremendous improvement.

However as an engineer something chafes me: That stay on the starboard side of the bowsprit (main top stay?) has to take a certain load. The whole load has to be transmitted via the tackle to the belaying points. Each of the 3 legs of the tackle takes 1/3 of the load which means the thread of the tackle should in this case be at least 1/3 of the strength of the stay. Yours seems to be quite thinner and will either break when the stay takes the full load or the stay is oversized. It just doesn't look balanced.

May I suggest to use the next stronger thread as tackle?

Take care

Peter

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Hi Peter

The origins of the problem are the American dimensions of the Syren thread.  The plans specify 0.75mm thread for the main top stay.  In effect the Syren choices for 0.75mm thread are 0.63 or 0.88mm  threads.  I chose the 0.88mm.  The 0.63mm is simply too thin.   So if anything I have overspecified the rope.  🙂 The 0.88mm looks a bit bulky on the 3mm blocks ... but there you are.

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Hi Peter

 

I misinterpreted your comment on the 'tackle'.  The instructions specify 0.1mm thread for the 3mm blocks.  I too thought that looked a bit thin once I had rigged them.  I had originally thought I would go with 0.2mm, but then I looked at the instructions.  That'll teach me.  It still may be possible to replace the 0.1mm.  I will see what can reasonably be done.

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Hi Bob

 

Now I see that the 3mm blocks in fact also look a bit thin - especially compared to your wonderfully detailed bowsprit shrouds.

I'm afraid that from now on you will always look at that tackle in a sceptical light and if you ever want to be happy again you'll have to install something like a tackle with 5mm blocks and 0.25mm thread.

 

Sorry for that trouble.

 

Cheers

Peter

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9 hours ago, RMC said:

Richard?

I had something else on my mind. Fixed...  😲 

 

The quarantine is messing with my head!😀

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My head's not too flash either Joe.  Now if I could only remember what day it is ...🙄

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Hi Peter

 

Unfortunately you were right.  First I replaced the 0.1mm with 0.2mm thread - didn't really make much difference - still not happy.  I then went the whole hog; replaced the blocks and used 0.3mm thread.  There is still the problem with the 1.14mm thread (rather than the specified 0.1mm) for the topmast stay.  It looks bulky on the block, but the next thinner thread is just too thin.  I'll just have to settle for happier.🙂

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Hi Bob

 

It definitely looks much better. Don't worry, be happy.

 

Perhaps even when building - or repairing -  the prototype they didn't always have the right strength of rope available either. And of course they would take the next stronger one.

Anyway, I keep telling myself, that all the snags and imperfections on my models make them to look more realistic, because working conditions back in the 18th and 19th century weren't perfect either.

 

Cheers

Peter

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The crows feet on the main preventer stay is (are?) done.  It's easy to damage things in the process and I'm relieved that it has come out quite well.

 

I  adjusted the tension of lashing as the rigging process progressed.  The thread was kept taught by hanging a small alligator clip part way down the line while the end of the line was threaded through the euphroe or the top. It worked well.  By the time all the lines were threaded, virtually no further adjustment to tension was needed

 

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here is how it turned out.

 

 

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You do an excellent job on the Granado. Just watching your build log makes one wish to build her, too 🙂

 

Thomas

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Thanks Captain and Thomas.  We can all do with a little encouragement now.

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4 hours ago, Gahm said:

You do an excellent job on the Granado. Just watching your build log makes one wish to build her, too 🙂

 

Thomas

I can't recommend Granado enough Thomas. The Caldercraft kit is nice, with plenty of upgrade opportunities. It's a great looking model when finished, of something a bit different from the usual. 

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A delayed thank you Sam for the encouragement.  Other things have intruded recently.

 

I have now completed the wingsail gaff.  I would not care to do it again.  The fundamental difficulty is the lack of access, as it is surrounded by so much other rigging. I think there is a case for installing it, certainly before putting up the back stays, and even before the shrouds.   Replacing the kit-supplied bibbs which are made of rather unattractive coarse grained 1.5mm ply, with 2mm timber turned out to be a lurking problem.  The gaff jaws no longer fitted and then had to be adjusted.  Access to the rear of the block on the top trestle tree for the 0.5mm thread proved to be very difficult indeed.  I ended up threading some 0.1 mm thread through the front of the block, down to the the end of the 0.5mm thread, joining it with CA, then pulling the whole lot back through the block.  

 

As well, and VERY important, when installing the block earlier in the build, there is no indication that the thread initially leads down from the **** of the block.  It therefore had to taken out of the trestletree  (I found I had installed it all too well), the thread installed, and the block replaced.  If you have to do all of this - good luck.

 

Here are the results.

 

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