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ronkamin

Brig Niagara by ronkamin - Model Shipways - 1/64

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Mike

 

I double checked, the waterway is 3/16" above the bulkheads and my planking currently 1/8' thick  leaving me 1/16" to the top of the waterway. I will need to sand down the planking to make it smooth, maybe taking off another 1/64 to 1/32" that should ensure enough clearance. As for the mast holes I believe making them slightly larger should solve the problem, just a thought for now. I will rethink that problem when I am ready to install the masts.

 

Frankie

I checked my build and I have a slight crown on my build. I have about 1/16" drop on either side from the center line around bulkhead  H-I. I may shave that down a bit to get the proper clearance to the waterway. That may be an easy fix since i only need about 1/32" to match the plans.

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Completed the planking and in the process of sanding it smooth and getting rid of any imperfections. I plan on putting on a primer in the couple of days. I know I that will show up more imperfections that will need to corrected before I put on the hull paint.

 

 

 

 

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In the mean time I have been completing the decking. It’s been sanded and is ready for a finish. I plan on using a satin varnish.  

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The final thickness ended up just under a 1/8” so it will end up just below the waterway.

Ron

 

 

 

 

Edited by ronkamin

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Congrats Ron - one big task getting close to complete. Just my opinion, but don't get too wrapped up in your finishing. Wood is wood and there's grain, knots, warppage, gaps, etc.  That's the beauty. It's not a show car.

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Three coats of varnish on the deck.  Started laying out the furniture before installing. I plan on putting a coat of flat black paint under the main hatch and skylight.

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Here is a shot of the hull after the first coat of primer. Give a few hours to dry, probably over night the do a light sand and put another coat of primer, before I mark the waterline and put on the final color.


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Ron

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The hull is another thing that will get beat to death before you finish the build. Plan on painting it one last time near the end.

 

It looks good. I like that you left the wood showing thru.

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Well I put on a couple of coats of the lower hull paint, I am using a Hunter Green spray paint. I was looking for a flat paint but could not find one locally. So I tried a satin finish. Not really happy with the outcome, it came out way too shiny, almost a gloss finish. I think I will apply a matte over coat to reduce the glossy look. I am going to wait with that process for a while to be sure I do not have to repaint because of accidents.

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I painted the upper part of the hull and taped off for the Boot Topping.

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Here is the completed hull minus overpainting to a matte finish of the lower hull.

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Now onto mounting the deck and start working on the deck furniture.

 

Ron

 

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Lesson learned?  No Semi. No Satin.  MATTE!!! Or just oil.

 

Nothing shined back then.

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I decided to have the companionway open, so that required me to build a dummy interior, so that when you looked down into the companionway you would not just see the framing. So built a small box with a false floor and stairs. This also required me to cut the bulkhead to fit the false interior. Below are several pictures of my progress.

Here is the box and floor.

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Floor installed in the box.

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Bulkhead cut to accept the companionway false interior.

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Deck cut and box installed. I plan on making a set of stairs to be installed.

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I modified the floor in the companionway, the slats looked too wide.

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I also made a set of stairs to go in the companionway.

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Here is a shot after I installed the deck, waiting for the glue to dry. Needed to form the deck to the bulkheads so there ended up being a slight crown in the deck.

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Ron

 

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Looks familiar ;)  It does add some dimension to the deck. To this day, I find myself trying to look down in the hold to see what is there.

Edited by mikiek

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I thought I had invented the idea - yeah a rookie coming up with an idea like that. Very disappointed to find out later the same thing was included in a Constitution kit. :( Well, I did think of it. But someone else did first.

 

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Mike,

Yours really looks good, a little more than I planned on doing. I think I will go back and review a few more build logs to get more ideas.

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It's really not much different than yours Ron. A partial cube painted black to place below deckso you don't see what's really there. Add a ladder and a coaming.

 

I do think that adds a lot to the view of the deck!

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These are some great shots, they will be really helpful. Thanks.

 

I am hoping to drive down and see the ship docked in Erie Pa., its only about an hour and half away, easy drive. Hopefully I can take some more pics to help the build.

 

Ron

 

 

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Ron,

 

Let me know when you go.  It is only about 2 hours for me. I have not seen the ship for many years, and when I did see it in Cleveland for a Tall Ships Event, I never dreamed that I would build a model of it.

 

Your Build looks great.

 

 

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Started building some of the deck furniture. I plan on building each piece and then later in the build install them. In my last build I put the furniture on early and then had problems installing some of the other equipment on the deck.

Here is the companionway partially assembled.

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And here it is completed. The camera brings out every little flaw, it looks pretty good in real life.DSCN0081.thumb.JPG.a8a77ede83c81b73783c23ade39cd76d.JPGDSCN0081.thumb.JPG.a8a77ede83c81b73783c23ade39cd76d.JPG

 

Here are shots as I build more of the furniture.

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Ron

 

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Well I completed the making the deck furniture. All sanded and painted, here are a few shots of the completed pieces.

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I also assembled the capstan.

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I used the kit supplied split rings and eyebolts for the grate cover. I decided to only cover one grate.

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I started assembling the 32 pound Caronnades. Cleaned them up and put two coats of red paint.

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Now onto putting together the rigging for the Caronnades. This looks like it will take some time. I plan on using the method detailed by 6ohiocav in his Niagara build to attach the hooks to the blocks. I also bought some 3mm hooks from Syren, I don’t think I have the skill to make my own at that size. Once they came in, it really surprised me in their size (really small, now I am sure I could not make them). I will post an update once I get farther alone in assembling the rigging.

 

 

Ron

 

 

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Started assembling the Carronades, this is a tedious task. I did make some changes and did not follow the drawings. I had difficulty making the breech line plates and the inhaul line plates. I was having difficulty drilling the holes for the rings. I was using my Dremel drill press and kept having the drill slip and end up drilling off the side of the plate.

So I decided to make a loop at the end of the plate and inserted the spilt ring through that. Here is a pic of what I did. I was having trouble zooming in and still have it in focus

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I decided to make a jig to drill the holes and slots for the upper part of the sliding base. I wanted to be sure they were all the same. I used the sheet the parts were punched out of, and added a backing piece.

 

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Here is what they look like mounted.

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This shot shows the rollers attached to the base.

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 I then started assembling the gun tackles. This will also take some patience and time.

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I am making the seizing by wrapping some line around a needle and putting some thin CA on it. Once removed I cut it to proper length and slip it on to the lines.

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Ron

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Things have been going pretty slow between making all the tackles and assembling the carronades. It doesn’t help that the weather here has been pretty good, so I was spending more time outside instead of the workshop.

Spent some time priming and painting the guns. I am using a flat black for the guns, I noticed that some build logs have the guns painted a gunmetal blue. I felt black was more appropriate.

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One issues I found was, nowhere could I find how the carronade were mounted. The description said they pivoted in the front, Hole in the carriage and in the planksheer, and stated it should have been mounted with a pin. I did not have a brass rod the proper diameter, and it would have been a pain cutting it to the proper length if I did, so I decided to use a modified tooth pick. Reduced the diameter slightly and cut it to the proper length. Here is a shot of how it turned out.

 

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The quoins are cut and are ready for painting and mounting. I will send pics when they are complete. I am building the port side guns first and see how they look before moving on the starboard side.

I am now building the carriages for the 12 pounders.

Ron

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Hey Ron - your mount is correct. A pin in the front (your toothpick) held this style of carriage in place. It also allowed the gun crew to pivot the nade to the port or starboard by pulling the tackle on one side or another. You can actually have that functional on your guns. I have found that people find it interesting to see how that works.

The real tackles had a fair amount of excess rope after it is laced thru the blocks. This was normal. When the gun recoils, that excess is shortened as the slide moves backwards. There are several ways to deal with the excess in your build, depending on how you will display the status of your boat.

1. Excess is laid in a flat coil on deck. This was the formal look and typically  used during inspections and for visitors.

2. Excess is in a small pile on deck. More typical of a action status, when the gun was in use.

3. Excess is frapped. Used while in transit. The excess is wrapped around the rope that runs between the 2 blocks of the tackle.

You will need to decide how you will do it before too long. There are good tricks to use for each method.

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Mike

 

Thanks for the info, I was planning on having the excess rope coiled up on the deck. I know the formal look would be a flat coil on the deck, but I was thinking of an informal coil set on the deck. I will soak the line in 50% white glue, make the coil, wait for it to dry then mount. The line will be a two piece application, one that goes thru the blocks, then add the coil hiding the cut length.

I have tried doing this in the past with a one piece of line and either my fingers are too big, or my dexterity is not that good making the coil, but the final product never looked right.

 

Ron

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I need some input here. I started installing the buns o the deck and installing the Gun Tackle and Breech Line and everything seems a bit crowded. I double checked and I am using the 1/8” 3mm blocks and .008 line. The plans call for .012 line but that seemed a bit thick. See below.

 

 

I measured the blocks and they measure 4mm. I am not sure if the kit came with wrong size blocks or am I too critical.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ron

 

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Ron - it was a crowded ship! 20 guns, 4-5 guys per gun. Just aint no getting around it. There are some things you can do to give the appearance of less crowded/cluttered. Keep loose rope to a minimum is the biggest. If you make coils with the excess they will be lying on the deck - more clutter. Consider frapping - check my log, it's what I did and I personally like the look.  The kit supplied blocks look rather bulky also. Your guns look great dont touch them.

 

Remember Niagara was designed to be a small fresh water boat with as many guns as they could possibly cram on deck.

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I double checked with another supplier and the blocks were the same size, I guess I will have to live with it. Mike I will check you log to see how you handled it. Thanks for the tip.

 

Ron

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