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Eric W

US Brig Syren by Eric W - Model Shipways - 1:64

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Setting the figurehead seems to be a ubiquitous part of Syren blogs, so I did not want to disappoint. I have a wee gap behind the head and may need filler, or should I work the taper more? IMG_0046.JPG.c5a439107961e86cc1262fde7adad7b9.JPG She looks good everywhere else. 

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Hello Eric.

This is going to be a complete change for you building a plank on bulkhead model.

The good thing about this kit is that there is a lot of  excellent builds here on MSW.

Will follow along from the beginning with this build. 

 

Regards Antony.

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So, after reading through a couple of logs, it seems quite a few folks are gluing the bulkheads to the BF prior to bevelling and fairing them. Yet the instructions  say to bevel prior to installation. I also have quite at bit of play in my bulkheads, but I think that will be fixed with the filler pieces. Be happy to get some opinions on this issue.

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Eric:

You should consider bracing the bulkheads to keep them square while the glue sets. Maybe clamp a machinist's square to the former to hold the bulkhead square while the glue dries. You could use a scrap wood block as well. Just something that square that you can clamp to both the bulkhead and the former to keep them square while the glue dries. 

 

After the bulkheads are glued in and the glue has dried hard, definitely glue filler blocks in between the bulkheads to help stiffen the hull. I would glue them in closer to the outside of the hull because that is where the most stress will be as you work on the hull. However, you could use blocks that are glued to the former and the bulkheads. The main thing is stiffen the bulkheads. 

 

As for beveling the bulkheads, if you can lay out the bevels on the bulkheads accurately then you can do some beveling before gluing them in, but I would not try to do it all. Always take off less than you think you should. It is easier to remove a little more but it is difficult to put it back on. Once the bulkheads are glued in and everything is nice and stiff, then you can do the final beveling. That is why those stiffeners between the bulkheads will come in so handy. 

 

Hope this helps. 

 

Russ

 

 

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I am using these great sanding stylus from Lumberton Industries. They come in four different grades of coarseness.  I think several people have come up on the net in various build logs with trepidation about going at the bulkheads with chisels. I am definitely in that camp. The sanding belts on each stylus are about a quarter inch wide, so they work great on the bulkheads. 

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Thanks Jim. I see what you mean with the the photo. That certainly would be a good idea for the deck planking. I also like how you have left the bulkheads somewhat exposed. 

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Here are a couple shots of the bulkhead fillers that I was able to get done over the weekend. I am going with balsa since it is pretty malleable and light, yet I think it will sufficiently stiffen the bulkheads. I am sticking with the praticum's suggestion of about 1" by 2" for the filler blocks. These are only dry fitted so far. 

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Eric:

Cautious is good. I always try to take off less than I think I should. It is easier to take off a little more than it is to try and put it back on after taking off too much. You are doing good so far. 

 

Russ

 

 

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Suprise, I did not in fact quit the build, just had a bit of a hiatus over the summer. Spent last couple months building the port sills and lintels and sanding them in place.  I think I may have sanded myself into a bit of a corner on the two forward most gun port sill pieces on the starboard side. Specifically how they are bowed around the second bulwark. Can that be hidden by the inner planks later, or should I try to fill it now?

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Edited by Eric W
Misspelling

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Closing out the weekend with the gun ports and sweep ports framed. I also started the initial sanding on them. I took Chuck's advice and sanded a bit in between each color frame. This gradual process definitely works well. Also, for the sweep ports, I used some leftover 1/8 x 3/8 basswood. Cutting at 3/16 gave me the perfect width. With that, I just had to sand or cut for length. 

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Edited by Eric W

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