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JpR62

Armed Viriginia Sloop by JpR62 - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48 - First wooden ship build

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Thanks to all the 'Likes' and to all the people who follow my log.

This week I work on the galley stack. I was not fully satisfied with the galley stack provided in the kit and with the way to mount it. So I decided to build a new copy from brass tubes.

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The base consists of a porthole found in my parts inventory and of a small section of a brass tube. The galley stack  consists of two segments of brass tube glued together.

I also replaced the simple square of walnut by a pad deck a little more detailed.

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A fitting test to see how that looks.

I build a little jig in order to mount the galley in a correct angle.

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The space between the base of the galley and the tube is filled with a little epoxy paste (magic-sculpt)

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The smoke pipe is blackened before being glued to the deck pad.

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Small rivets are finally added.

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I'm now working on the elm tree pumps.

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Small advance of this week-end. The elm tree pumps are done.

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The metal reinforcement band is simulated using some black card stock strips.

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Now it's really time to work on the catheads...

 

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Thanks to all the 'Likes'.

As I was rather focused on my queen Anne Barge, the advance is rather modest.

I have added some small details on the deck equipment.

The boom crutches have been glued.

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The cleats comes from Syren Ship Model : 5mm boxwood cleats.

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The catheads have been added.

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I used a photocopy of the cap rail plan to accurately determine the position of the timberheads.

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I followed the advice given by Chuck in his build log of the HMS Winchelsea: a little square from a 3 mm strip was glued on top of the timber to "simulate" a nice carved detail and then sanded thinner.

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All the cleats comes from Syren Ship Model.

 

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The timberheads and cleats on the cap rail are painted.

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I hesitate on the finish to adopt for the cleats on the bulwarks.  I saw three possibilities used in the different build logs : keep the natural color of the wood (current situation), paint them in red or paint them black. The logic would seem to lean towards red...

I still have to make the eight pedestals for the swivel cannons. This will be my next step.

 

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Thanks to all for looking on my build.

The breech lines of the 6 cannons are finished. I upgrade to some Syren ropes and I have not regretted it.

I have build a little jig to be regular in my work.

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For the installation of the breeching ropes, I was inspired by the wonderful work of Beef Wellington on his HMS Jason build log.

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Time to try to make the gun tackles and their rope coils.

 

 

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You have made nice progress, looking very good. In my opinion the more easy way is to cut the tackle about 1 cm after last passing through the block and glu it directly onto the deck. Then make a separate rope coil and glue that onto the tackle‘s end. I find this way more appropriate to make sure all rope coils are of equal size and position next to the gun.

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42 minutes ago, captain_hook said:

You have made nice progress, looking very good. In my opinion the more easy way is to cut the tackle about 1 cm after last passing through the block and glu it directly onto the deck. Then make a separate rope coil and glue that onto the tackle‘s end. I find this way more appropriate to make sure all rope coils are of equal size and position next to the gun.

That's what I do also.  Here are the two gun deck cannons rigged (from my 17th Century Battle Station).

coils.jpg

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Thanks CaptainHook and Dave.

That's exactly the answer to the question I was asking myself : do I have to do the tackle and the rope coil with only one length of rope or separate the process in two parts. It seemed me easier to make a separate rope coil but all the pictures posted in the different build logs show me one long rope lying on the deck waiting to be rolled 😉

I will follow your valuable advice and use your method.

Thanks for your help and thanks to all the 'Likes'.

 I'm just waiting on an order of some Syren ropes 😊

 


 

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The blocks and the tackle ropes are done. All the components come from Syren Ship : 3mm hooks, 1/8 single and double  blocks and .012" ropes.

I use the method described by Bernard Froelich in his excellent book 'L'art du modélisme' for prepare the blocks : I first pass the brown rope through the hook and tie a single knot, then I glue it all at the top of a block with a micro drop of CA. I pass the rope on each side of the block and tie the rope with a single knot at the bottom of the block. I apply some white glue diluted to fix this single knot. When everything is dry, I cut the ends of the rope and add a micro drop of white diluted glue. At this scale the single knot at the bottom of the block mimics quite well the splice.

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Now time to assemble the blocks. I found this excellent design that show the process to follow. There is no more to...

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Thanks for all the 'Likes'.

I finished my work on the cannons. I really enjoyed this part of my project.

I first build a little jig to help me set up the blocks.

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I followed the advice of CaptainHook and Dave for the rope coils. After setting up the tackle rope and blocks, I cut the rope and have glued it directly onto the deck. I improved my jig by adding two stations for formatting the rope coils...

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When the separate rope coil is ready, I just have to transfer it from the jig to the deck. I glue the rope coils onto the tackle's end.

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I will now be able to set up all the others elements of the deck ☺️

 

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Thanks for all the likes.

Captain_hook, I still have a lot of work before I finish... and I work in parallel on the queen barge 😉

 

Not a great advance. I just come back from a week holiday in Paris. Too bad that the National Maritime Museum is closed. But I still had 2 beautiful days at the Army Museum. Beautiful collection of armor and naturally very complete display on Napoleon's time.

 

I just put in place all the elements constituting the deck.

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Before starting my work on the masts, I will focus again on the queen barge. It's time to set up the oars 😉

 

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Thank you to all the 'Likes'.

I finish to built the lower mast and top mast.

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I replace the metal cast hoops from the kit by the mini-kit from Syren Ship.

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The 5 mm cleats also come from Syren. I just simulate the nails with some black colored wire (0.32 mm)

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Mast mounting test. The mast cap casting must be burnished.

The fid passed through the rectangular slot prevents the topmast slipping through the top.

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I will now work on the bowsprit and jibboom.

 

 

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