Jump to content

USS Spruance DDG 111 by RGL - FINISHED - Trumpeter - PLASTIC


Recommended Posts

Now, three layers of grunge, diluted grey, black and green, run in the gaps of the ribs. When the hull is fully painted I’ll add some salt. Internet photos of the DDG’s in this class either have them completely grey with biomass or sparkling clean on the slipways. I just wanted a little bit to dull down the oilcanning. I think it’s probably proportional to the amount of rust I’ll put topside. 

 

Airbrush away now and back back to building. 

D71C6006-6DA8-4323-A18B-67CF31DF5BF6.jpeg

10B2002B-6B1C-454E-9744-5FB1819087EF.jpeg

944FC99E-DBB7-4ED2-B0EB-7941049D5A4F.jpeg

Greg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now the bottom of the hull is done, it’s back to brass. The decks are all beautiful scribed brass. They fit perfectly (if you have put the plastic together perfectly- otherwise one needs to do some trimming) but the difficulty of large bits of brass is getting them to sit flush. 

 

This is s a major part of the build as everything else will sit on this. I will have to clean up the brass with acetone prior to painting 

11E74E6E-C542-4350-A700-1900EC88EA9A.jpeg

52CD8565-5F22-48E0-8A75-EAC1E68341D7.jpeg

B4C63A6D-EA8F-42D5-848D-05EBF481F0CF.jpeg

A3275AC2-F649-49C9-BC3E-3A38EC6B59E4.jpeg

Greg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great progress Greg.  Those decks are very nicely detailed.  Are they an after-market purchase or part of the kit?

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Moving along and commencing in the starboard side, I’m going to do the sides but not the decks prior to painting. I have added some extras such as speakers and lights which appear on the real ship. I also added some brass pipes which are etched in but not 3D. There are a LOT of fire hoses and life rings to add which I intend to paint on the frets and add after. 

 

There are are a few little gaps but there will be a lot of equipment in front of them and railings to go. 

BFFA9C47-E619-4EF9-B97D-1FEBF15C5FBD.jpeg

BF4CBBA0-F152-4031-98ED-F701CFFF988B.jpeg

27A49F9E-3F57-43B6-8046-D5AFF59E503D.jpeg

0F33DCE0-FED0-4365-8612-8CEACB9E5129.jpeg

Greg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice Greg.  With all the PE, where it joins the resin/plastic parts do you fill the joint, or file down the PE edge so that it does not stand proud - for example the vertical join aft of the ladder in your port side amidships photo earlier?  I may be jumping the gun but am interested as I may have to do something similar when I finally get around to my Vampire resin build.  The PE certainly holds a lot more detail.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unless you can put the plastic together perfectly it usually needs some work. Tamiya fits perfectly, everyone else, not so. For example with the last photo, photoetch is designed to fit perfectly, so any error means it needs work, be it putty or just plain CA or shims. If you are going to use a file the piece must be glued down hard to save the metal piece coming off a little bit and bending. 

 

Mr Surfacer is good to paint on joins to see if you’ve got it right. 

 

What you can’t see in the photo you mention, I ran a bead of glue along the edge which is transparent but “should” look ok when painted. 

Greg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Greg, appreciate the feedback.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you go to Shapeways.com you may find additional parts of interest. they have a huge inventory of recent US Navy ship detailed parts.

Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren

Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18

On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, 

 

Its a sailor's Life for me! :10_1_10:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is not an area I am very good at. I am very interested in 3D printing. I have stumbled across this site. I noticed all the 3D parts for US Navy ships.

Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren

Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18

On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, 

 

Its a sailor's Life for me! :10_1_10:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a lot of PE and superdetailing Greg; should look good all painted up.  Are you using an etchent or product to provide a key for the primer on the PE or do you just shoot the primer on?

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

looking good Greg,

I am jealous of your temps. Can't do any airbrushing here. After a few days with night temps back to normal (+ºC) we are back to night frost. I'll just have to sit it out again

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lovey here in Autumn, mid 20’s C. 

 

I sprayed the deck dark grey as per the painting guide. Boring. Nearly all the detail script ed into the deck disappears in bland. So, back to modulation, comes up OK. It looks a bit stark in places but, tomorrow I will put the decals on, then a satin coat. That will then allow me to mask the deck area and let me paint the rest of the hull. 

 

I have used about 50% of the PE. So there is an enormous amount of pE yet to be added before weathering which will blend the deck better. 

59BC4BD7-FF76-4AC6-83A9-2191FABECE40.jpeg

D397E6A2-E1C5-4991-AD8D-18C00E2B2785.jpeg

D1BEE013-3291-4D45-86EF-40913267330A.jpeg

AD8164CD-BE60-4364-99BB-833C7423937C.jpeg

Greg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, the Pontos rub on decals are utter rubbish. The back deck lifted a few bits of paint but that’s not a hard fix as it with be somewhat weathered. The front deck, absolute nightmare. The brass also kept lifting so I stripped it off and stripped it back. Sigh, start again and use the kit provided decals. 

7572C7E8-960B-45BD-800A-31C5EA222F17.jpeg

DFDA7B7D-6345-4161-8320-5D02E8D01031.jpeg

Edited by RGL

Greg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That was disappointing Greg; the Pontos stuff is usually pretty decent isn't it?  Good luck with the fix

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, back to the drawing board, the front deck was completely stripped back and re painted. I then used the kit provided decal for the helicopter  square. I then used the kit provided red warning circle for the deck gun. Rubbish. Removed it and re painted. Then used the very sticky Pontos red decal, lightly rubbed with the end of a scalpel and IT WORKED! 

 

Light varnish coat. Let it set for a few days then I can finish masking. 

FB01BC6F-CA43-456E-8E67-7AAD1CCD3389.jpeg

Greg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You did get value for money ... kept you busy for a while, you tried nearly every feasible option, you got more airbrush training, and you know what decals to select when in doubt ... On top of that, a very good result in the end. The only remaining question: Is it what you intended, knowing full well your attitude towards your expected perfection ...

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...