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Corsair by DCIronfist - FINISHED - OcCre - 1:80 scale (First wooden ship build)


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David-

 

CA comes in different grades and setting times.  The 'thin' grade sets in about 10 seconds, 'medium' maybe 30 seconds and there is a 'thick' that gives you still more time.  Good old fashioned 'wood glue' (PVA) gives you much more time to work with.  I like to have all 4 sitting around depending on what I am doing.  If you really need time to get something aligned and set, there are 2 part epoxies with set times from 5 minutes to 2 hours.

 

Just something to consider.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Thin flows like water, medium like pancake syrup and thick like honey.  Varies from brand to brand. 

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Hi David,

 

Try to use wood glue (PVA) when you can. Reasonable working time and a strong bond. I would suggest "medium" CA (5-15 sec) if you need something quciker on a spot that's, for example, difficult to clamp. I would reallyreallyreally avoid the "thin" CA (3-5 sec). It wicks to a great extent and may create an area that won't take finish like the surrouding areas not affected by the CA.

 

Brian

"Give you joy!"

 

Current Build: RATTLESNAKE 1:64 POB (Mamoli)

 

Kits on hand: "Lexington", Mamoli: "Robert E. Lee", Scientific

Scratch to do: "Fannie Dugan", 1870s Sidewheeler Steamboat

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Ok so I lined the inside of the bulwarks and cut out the shape and the gun ports ( a more time consuming project then one would think ) and the next step is to glue it on........now to my question...... I know I still have to shape the front a bit but how does one get that bend in the bulwark for the front? Does one use water brute? Putting this on hold until my trustworthy help support team lets me know.... Thanks in advance :) :)post-3113-0-54698200-1369681792_thumb.jpg just need pencil lines :)

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David     :pirate41:

First Build: Corsair Brigantine

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hello David

 

soak the plywood in some hot water for just  a few seconds then using rubber bands make it bend agsint the hull and let dry

 

it will spring back after wards so the next step is to soak again and then use somethign like a round paint tin to bend it a bit further . not too much as it wil break. i usualy make it so the bend is more then it sould be and then resoak and put aginst hull again that wil get the best fit and glueing it afterwards goes easy :)

 

Current builds : HMS Bounty, Constructo Pilar

Next build : undecided

On the Shelf : AL San Juan, Mamoli HMS Victory

Builds on hold : Ochre Gorch Fock, Hachette/Amati Black Pearl

Previous Builds Gallery : Virginia; King of Mississippi

Previous Builds logs : AL King of Mississippi 1/80

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Davis,

 

Looks great!  I really like the selection of clamps you use...    :) 

 

Cheers,

Tim

Tim 

 

Current Build:

 

 

 

 

 

Future Build:

  • BlueJacket - USS Kidd (Fletcher Class Destroyer) Solid Hull
  • BlueJacket - U.S.S. SAMUEL B. ROBERTS, DE413 | Butler-Class Destroyer Escort
  • BlueJacket - 310' Destroyer "The famous "four-piper" of both World Wars"
  • Model Shipways - Pride of Baltimore II (Topsail Schooner) 
  • Model Shipways - Willie L. Bennett (Chesapeake Bay Skipjack)
  • Constructo - Pilar (Ernest Hemingway's Fishing Yacht)  
  • Sergal - Race Horse (Bomb Ketch)
  • Classic Warships - USS Salem CA-139 (Heavy Cruiser) Resin Kit
  • Pen Duick Schooner - Half Hull (Scratch Build)
  • CSA Submarine Hunley (Resin Kit)
  • Classic Warships - USS Washington BB-56 (Battleship) Resin Kit
  • Blue Ridge Models - USS Alaska CB-1 (Resin Kit)

 

Completed Builds:

                 

Member:

Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

 

              

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What Adrieke said, usually takes a couple water baths, until you have the bend you need.

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

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Just a quick update nothing picture worthy but filed/sanded ( faired if I knew the lingo lol ) the top of the bulkheads down so the bulwarks can fold around them after I wet them so they will take the shape. Will try that maneuver tomorrow :) Look at me taking words from the instructions like I know what I'm talking about lol.

David     :pirate41:

First Build: Corsair Brigantine

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It is amazing how as the build grows so does your vocabulary...but then if you are like me, you move to the next step and forget all over again lol.

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

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David-  don't worry about the time.  I'm really slow myself.  Just think of it as getting your money's worth :)

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Ok I'm on the edge of completely giviving up today......I soaked the bulwarks a couple minutes and then tro to bend around the curve and am rewarded with a crack sound. I look and sure enough the plywood had craked at the bend.....here I am just trying to get the shape and man there is just no easy way to hold the shape......some pictures follow have not glued anything but not sure what to do about my cracks and the shape bieng not quite right........perhaps in a few days I will be better equipped mentally to deal with it........

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David     :pirate41:

First Build: Corsair Brigantine

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Hey DC (david)

don't you just hate the sound of breaking wood. UGH!

One thing I've found, anything can be fixed.... Take a few minutes off and cool down... fixing your spirits comes first.... realize its just part of the hobby, albeit a sucko part.

 

I just decided I'm going to have to remake the port Top rail of the Swift due to breakage. It sucks but its part of the hobby.

 

One suggestion which would be more work on your Corsair then my Swift. I replaced the plywood bulwarks with solid basswood of the same thickness. It has way better fexiblity and soaking isn't an issue. Of course they'd be alot more complex to cut out, but it worked for me.

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Best advice...for me...remove the planking and bend the bulwark by itself. Even though those planking strips are really thin, they do add support and make it harder to bend. looks like a nasty break, if you don't have additional plywood to cut a new one from you have a couple of choices. Buy some sheet basswood from Model Expo and make yourself new ones from that. Second choice, fix what you have. If it were me, I would remove the planking, use wood glue liberally over the broken area, allow to dry for 24 hours then sand the bandaged area. Then I would wet a towel and wrap the bulkwark in a towel and place in the microwave for 30 seconds to 1 min to get it "pliable" . In the meantime make yourself  a "frame" of nails that follow the curve you need to acquire. Gently take your softened bulwark and bend it to your nail curve. Use a blowdryer to dry to the shape you need.  I am not sure how well the break will hold up, but even a bit of a sharp edge on the broken edge can be sanded smooth and filled with putty and once planked will disappear entirely.

 

Don't give up David, each set back is a learning experience....the worst result of this one is waiting for the basswood sheet from ME :P

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

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Tough one, David.  Step away for whatever time is needed and cool down. 

Bending sometimes has to be done in several stages soaking and drying as you go.  TMC is right in that solid wood would be better than ply.  But I think the real problem is that the planking was attached before you bent the bulwark......and CA was probably not the best choice.  One it sets, it's very brittle.  Wood glue would have softened a bit. 

 

Trying a repair as suggested by Robbyn is worth a shot as is ordering some replacement wood in case you need a total do-over.  All of us here know how discouraging this can be.  But you will overcome this.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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ouch David. nasty break but fixable ( i had some of those on my curved walls onthe kom)

 

if you go for making a new part in plywood make sure to feel which way it bends best that was the last mistake i made.

 

for holding things when there is no hold like the bow what i do is use rubber bands. ofcourse they d slip off but not if you just clamp some  pegs on top and let the band rest against it

 

Current builds : HMS Bounty, Constructo Pilar

Next build : undecided

On the Shelf : AL San Juan, Mamoli HMS Victory

Builds on hold : Ochre Gorch Fock, Hachette/Amati Black Pearl

Previous Builds Gallery : Virginia; King of Mississippi

Previous Builds logs : AL King of Mississippi 1/80

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Hi David,

 

Maybe you feel a little bit better when I tell you that this is happened to me also when I try to put the bulwark on to my Corsiar…….

I just glued the crack and hold it together with a clamp.

Then sanding and filling because you still have your planking that goes over it.

But Robbyn makes also a good point.

You have to see what works out for you.

 

animaatjes-sjors-94584.gif

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AHA- Sjors had come through with what might be the best answer.  Didn't realize that bulwark would be planked over.  Some glue, filler and creative sanding should allow you to get it smooth enough to plank over and no one will be the wiser.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Thank you everyone for the encouragement ( really needed some right now) I will attempt to glue clamp it and sand it smooth. I only planked it first because the directions had me do it that way. I am sure this is not the last thing I will break, bieng the oaf I am, but with friends here I will get through each trouble. I will attempt this tomorrow when my shift is over( if the night runs are not too bad ). More info to follow soon.......

David     :pirate41:

First Build: Corsair Brigantine

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Looking forward to seeing your fix David....haven't you learned yet...the instructions are never right lol

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

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David, I  think we all feel for you. There is nothing worse than the sound of cracking wood after many hours of work. When it has happened to me, I get up and go to the kitchen & shake hands with "Gentleman Jack". After about 10 min. to calm down, I can normally find a fix for the problem. By the way, good work on your build so far.

Dave.

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