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Santisima Trinidad by md1400cs – OcCre - 1/90 cross section (bashed)

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Hi Mates,

 

Minor – catch up post – after taking some yard time off.

When I started doing all of these block and carriage bits (again) – having spent five years on the Vasa – I found little motivation – almost shelved this one to bring up the Viking ship from under the table. Then – No – back into this project  :D

 

Still not sure about the cannons – sure like the ones with decorative markings, though not Spanish. That said the kit included ones are certainly more accurate and a bit longer as well. So would look better once installed with carriages fully forward. I think that the blocks are a bit big, though the next size down where way too small. Next bit air brushing the barrels. As always thank for still dropping by ---

 

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Cheers,

 

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Hi Mates,

 

Thanks for the welcome back and you visits. :piratebo5:

 So, carriages/guns put on hold - It occurred to me that I prob. should copper the hull before adding more bits and  decks. This will be my first effort. I’ve seen and followed some great builds that added plates. Of course this small, easy cross section will be a “walk in the park, compared to coppering full hulls.

 

That said, I read a very interesting letter in the Spring 2018 Vol. 63 issue of the Nautical Research Journal. Member, Ian Poole, was commenting about how copper plates added to models are sometimes rather inaccurate looking because of the “nails issue”. He stated that available copper plates have overly large simulated copper nail indentations. He went on to state that, of course, copper plates were attached using counter sunk copper nail heads; indeed barely visible.

In any case copper nails should not stand out above the plates. All for obvious reasons

 

So It got me thinking about how to “improve” the look of the after-market plates that I intend to add to this build.

 

My solution.

 

1) Use the Model Shipways plates that I had pre-purchased.

 

2) Using piers flatten all the nail dimples on each plate

 

3) Flip the plate over and attach those to the hull with the backside facing up. This look more accurately simulates the look of counter-sunk copper nails.

 

Here are a few preliminary photos;

 

The new plate faces certainly looks more “realistic”.

 

PS: Yes – lots and lots of extra time will be needed having to re-work each of the 100s of needed plates. Could be overkill??

 

Regards,

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Hi Michael,

 

I think you have a great idea for your copper plating method!

 

If you have trouble, you might try a method I have use in the past.

 

Buy commercially available copper strip rolls to the width you need

 

IMG_2167.thumb.jpg.81359e08db81864ffff5c0322b028fe8.jpg

 

Then I use this pizza roller gadget I have that will put indents the way you want them.

I roll the gadget along each side of the copper strip, using a steel ruler as a guide for the roller.

Then I cut the strip to the lengths I need, using the cutting block shown in the 1st photo.

 

IMG_2168.thumb.jpg.461d9b89f2fc4b57b09a92645406c04b.jpg

Also, to ensure the plates stay on the hull, I spread slow drying glue on a section of hull and then add the strips.

 

Anyway, just another idea!

 

Frank

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if you want to flatten the copper,  you could try using a rolling pin.......do 'em in mass quantities ;)   just so happens,  I found one of those ponce wheels in the cellar of our apartment building..........took me a while to get it back into working shape.   glad to see your back at the table :) 

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HI Mates,

 

Frank: thanks for the idea. I knew about this technique, but not quite comfortable enough trying to make the strips look realistic.

 Denis: tried your idea. The admiral has a wooden rolling pin, I don’t think that I could push hard enough to flatten the dimples. Also the wood absorbed some of the pressure points. I got poor results.

 

So Plan B; No longer using the pliers, one at a time instead using double sided tape and our knife sharpening stone just taping on the dimples with a hobby hammer. Much better, and faster "factory production" --

 

Also, since I will reverse side -- attach of the plates –dimples really need to be very flat to properly lay upon hull planks once glue is added. Hammer taps on that stone block does the trick.

 

Not sure what glue to use will try CA Gel on a practice piece.

 

Cheers,

 

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Martyn: Thanks - ordered the Gorilla brand. Now straightening out and or slightly curving the copper plates. Glue comes Monday so looking forward to this section of the build. 

 

Patrick: Agreed the brass, non decorated barrels will look more appropriate for this build. After the coppering, will get back to getting those painted, mounted, and secured to the lower deck. Then I need to figure out the proper locations for the gun door framing, and how they connect to outer hull planking. My Vasa was all wrong (at the outer hull) -- I'm determined to get it right this time :default_wallbash:

 

As always mates thanks for your advice, help, and just dropping by

 

Cheers,

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Hi Mates,

 

Started copper plates installation. Decided to start at keel, because if I messed up -during first attempt at this - I could easily hide errors, and learn as I went up to the water lines. Yes some early alignment, and spacing issues -- hiding haha -- but once I got the hang of it all fell into a nice pattern, so far so good. Here are a few early start pics.

 

Regards as always,

 

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Edited by md1400cs

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Hi mates

 

Denis: Thanks for the comments. Before I even think about “patting myself on the back” I need to bow :imNotWorthy: to all builders who actually copper entire hulls. My simple little cross section doesn’t hold a candle to those other builder's work and the complexities involved in properly setting 1000s of plates to the curves also involved. I am happy, however with how this first attempt is coming out. :)

 

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Frank:  these pliers were part of a set I bought years ago when I was detailing model cars and engines.

 

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I think that I got them at Micromark.  

https://www.micromark.com/Metal-Forming-Pliers-Set-of-4

 

Regards,

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looks like a neat set of pliers.........something to look into :)    so true about the coppering......with a cross section,  your spared the pains of having to taper.   I've not coppered a hull either........it will be interesting when I have the chance to  ;) 

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Finished up the coppering. Will use the kit provided gun port frames only as a guide to locate proper framings throughout. I also plan to build the hull gun port doors from scratch.

 

Note – kit instructions suggest using black and then red paint for certain timbers, including carriages. I have shied away from this with my two previous builds, and will do the same with this one, just a very personal preference nothing more. So I will leave those triple oak wales as they are.

 

Cheers,

 

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Patrick: as always thanks...

 

Starting on the lower gun deck outer hull planks along with, this time, proper looking gun port framing as well as second row of wales.

My last build cannon wood framing was was so not ok -- last pic

(I was still learning [still am])

 

As always mates thanks for dropping by......

 

Cheers,

 

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Edited by md1400cs

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Hi Mates,

 

Thanks for the likes and nice comments. Finished up the lower gun deck inner wall timbers - added lights, then slid its deck into place. Need to add nails here and there along with hooks for carriage blocks/ropes to those inner wall planks, as well as to the wales on the port side.

 

Used the kit provided knees – they are not "correct" but fit really well - and won't be too noticeable, I hope.

 

Going to try to salvage, and fix that deck framing that did not work out earlier with this build– might be ok for mid-gun deck?.

 

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Edited by md1400cs

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Minor update, did not much care for the kit provided ladders, so used some after market bits as well as adding some extra details.

 

Happy with the results – especially seeing that the just installed lights are also working properly.

 

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6.jpg

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