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Dan Vadas

HMS Hood by Dan Vadas - Halinski - 1:200 - CARD - FINISHED

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Hi all. Here's the start of my latest Card model - HMS Hood, at the time of her short-lived battle with Bismarck. She was sunk on 23rd of May 1941. Information on Hood can be found on Wikipedia HERE.

 

The kit is from Halinski in Poland, a kit manufacturer that I've had some experience with (see "IJN Amatsukaze" in my signature). I had a lot of fun with that kit and found every aspect of it from design, printing and even the instructions to be excellent. A bonus in this kit is that there is a separate sheet of instructions in English, so I won't be needing Google Translate this time. Although I rarely looked at the written instructions anyway :D, mostly I just used the photos.

 

There are 20 sheets of printed parts. The number of parts on each sheet range from 5 to well over 250, depending on their size :

The Kit (4).JPG

 

I also bought the Laser-cut set of frames etc. There are 14 different sheets, but also about 6 of them have two identical sheets - some or most of the parts are probably glued together to double their thickness :

The Kit (7).JPG

 

I also bought the Metal Barrel sets, and whatever PE Halinski had for this ship (12 sheets). However, NO railing was supplied in the PE set, so I will need to buy the Railing Set from Eduard's for the plastic Trumpeter kit - hopefully I won't need to modify too many pieces :

The Kit (2).JPG

 

I've finished all the initial preparations. I bought two A3 size Display Books to hold all the separate sheets of parts :

The Kit (3).JPG

 

 

The instructions are mostly in the form of computer rendered pictures which I found much easier to work with than the very poor line-drawings in the Bismarck kit :

The Kit (5).JPG

The Kit (6).JPG

 

My final preparation - and one I've found to be invaluable on previous Card kits - was to spend two days cataloguing every part on all the sheets into a Spreadsheet sorted into numerical order with the Sheet Number next to the part. This is quite a lot of work (there are 6 pages of the spreadsheet), but it saves A LOT of time later when searching for parts. Rather than search through all 34 sheets for one small part I can find it in seconds by knowing which sheet to look through :) :

The Spreadsheet (1).JPG

The Spreadsheet (2).JPG

 

On with the REAL work :D.

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Thanks Mark. The spreadsheet was one of the best ideas I've ever had :). I figure it will save about 6 months worth of searching for parts over the course of the build :).

 

I was right about the doubled-up laser-cut framing sheets - I've glued a couple together (not much to see yet) and come to the conclusion that I won't need to glue any extra card to the sides of bulkheads etc for a wider gluing surface like I've had to do on previous builds. What a bonus :D. I will however glue thick card BETWEEN the bulkheads in at least one position (maybe two) to support the hull skins. I did this on both the previous models, and had no problems with accidentally crushing the skins.

 

I can already feel that this will be a really good Card model to build :).

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Another trick I used for tracking parts is to separate numbered parts from their sheets and sort them into zip lock bags, numbers 1-50 in one bag, 51-100 in another, etc. Works for people who dread spreadsheets. :-)

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6 hours ago, Canute said:

I've read that Halinski is a top shelf company.

Ken, they're one of the best IMO :).

 

2 hours ago, ccoyle said:

Another trick I used for tracking parts is to separate numbered parts from their sheets and sort them into zip lock bags, numbers 1-50 in one bag, 51-100 in another, etc. Works for people who dread spreadsheets. :-)

Not a bad idea either Chris. Actually, that's what my display folders are for - after cutting the parts I need from a sheet I return it to it's numbered clear plastic pocket until the next time I need it ;).

 

WELCOME to the rest of you guys :).

 

:cheers:  Danny

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1 hour ago, amateur said:

Ehhhh..... who did this spreadsheet for you? It  an't be you, you were finishing Bismarck (at least, that's what you suggested us :) )

I will be followi g with interest!

 

 Jan

Yep, I made the spreadsheet as soon as Bismarck was finished :D.

 

Welcome Jan and John :).

 

:cheers:  Danny

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I've gone a fair way into building the framework. The laser-cut parts are EXCELLENT, they are so precise that I need to peel off the top layer of card to allow the tabs to fit into the slots :

Framing (4).JPG

 

Here are the four sections. I've also discovered that I won't need to make any extra bracing between the bulkheads - they are supplied in the kit :). I haven't fitted any of them yet, I will need to fit the sections together first :

Framing (3).JPG

Framing (2).JPG

Framing (1).JPG

 

So far the design has been brilliant :).

 

:cheers:  Danny

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I've finished all the framing - already :). This has only taken me a bit over two days, compared to the identical sized Bismarck which took me over a week. Credit is due to Halinski's excellently laser cut pieces - compared to GPM's Bismarck, well, there IS NO comparison. GPM's were really sloppily cut :angry:. This framing has also turned out near perfect :) :

Framing (5).JPG

Framing (7).JPG

Framing (9).JPG

Framing (10).JPG

Framing (8).JPG

 

Unlike the instructions in Bismarck, Halinski have you fit the (precut) Deck sections to the hull at this stage - without gluing the printed decks to them. This will make things a lot easier, as there's no chance of damaging the decks while fairing and hull skinning with the hull upside-down :

Framing (11).JPG

Framing.JPG

 

I've added extra card for Fillers at both bow and stern. Initial trimming was done with a scalpel, finished off with a 150 grit sanding stick :

Fillers (4).JPG

Fillers (2).JPG

Fillers (1).JPG

Fillers (3).JPG

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Thanks Steve, OC, Jan and Popeye :).

 

The instructions/renderings seem to be a bit short in some areas, notably the reason for a small notch between the upper and lower hull skins. I finally worked it out - there is a "joining strip" between the skins that fits into the notch :). This is a good idea, as it gives me a larger gluing surface for the edges, and it's also grey so any slight gaps won't be as noticable :

Hull Skins (2).JPG

Hull Skins (1).JPG

 

I started the hull skinning yesterday, starting at the bow. The fit of the skins is very good, but I still managed to mis-align the first one resulting in a step on the next. The "step" in question is the one on the right in the pic below - the left one is actually OK, as there is a shift in the skins at that point.

 

The first skin only needs to be a fraction of a millimetre off to cause problems later. I've managed to get back on line however :) :

Hull Skins (8).JPG

Hull Skins (9).JPG

Hull Skins (7).JPG

 

Here's the method I've worked out to get the skins on with a minimum of "starving cow".

 

First off, the Fairing on each bulkhead needs to be spot-on. Even with the excellent laser cutting of the framing they still need a bit of work to make sure there is absolutely no step between the two glued-together bulkheads. I used a combination of sanding and filling with thin paper to get them right.

 

Next is to pre-shape each skin as near as possible to it's final shape. I sit the skin in place and mark the bends. Then I use a round item - in this case a knitting needle - and a piece of high-density foam underneath the skin to shape it :

Hull Skins (6).JPG

Hull Skins (4).JPG

Hull Skins (3).JPG

 

Last is the amount of glue I use. Just a small bead on each outer edge. Any more will result in the skin being pulled out of shape. This amount of glue is more than sufficient to hold the skin. Any excess that squeezes out is immediately cleaned off with a small paintbrush :

Hull Skins (10).JPG

 

I do each skin in three stages - first the middle, aligning the centre marks, then one side followed by the other. So far, so good :).

 

Danny

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Thank you Carl and David :).

 

Before fitting any part I've been colouring the edges, using PITT Pens. These are waterproof and acid-free, and come in a large range of colours. I use the Brush tips :

Pitt Pens.JPG

Hull Skins (14).JPG

 

There is some unfortunate printing on the lower skins. The difference in colours is quite evident here :

Hull Skins (13).JPG

 

11 skins done, 10 to go :

Hull Skins (12).JPG

Hull Skins (11).JPG

 

:cheers:  Danny

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sorry to hear of the color difference....hope your able to even it out.   I use those archive pens too........an idea gotten by you and John :) ........best idea I ever got!

 

looking good so far Danny.  you've had a couple small problems.........but know the level of experience you possess....they are but mere adjustments  ;) 

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5 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

Dan,

Are you going to re-spray the hull, to harmonize the colors?

Yves

No I'm not going to try to blend in the darker colour red (or brown?). I'm going to attempt to make this model without ANY filler or paint, other than edge-colouring and of course PE. Just for the challenge ;):D.

 

BTW - I reserve the right to change my mind later on if it bugs me :D.

 

Danny

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