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Sultana 1767 by moreplovac - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/64 - Colonial Schooner

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  • 2 weeks later...

After few days vacation and due to the new job engagement i am back to shipyard..


Today i have attacked the anchors. The rope eye was made and attached to the buoy' other end, into the eye bolt.



The eye was made using fairly simple and self-explanatory process shown on next picture..



Both buoys completed and ready for mounting.



First the anchor was mounted and glued to the ship...


Then the buoy was attached to the ratline and the rope coils for both buoys were made...


The rope coil was attached to the ratlines.


And both anchors installed and waiting for a anchor cable to be installed... Not sure if i had to do this part (anchor cable) before mounting it to ship... We will see...





Happy modeling...











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Work on anchors continue with making a blocks with hooks... The blocks were provided in the kit, now the hooks have to be made...

The hooks were tied to the block with a rope that was glued to the block; the size is too small for any other type of knots (well at least for my fingers). So here is a hook and completed block.



I decided to simulate a wheel that is positioned inside the cathead and holds the rope, with a piece of wire. This wire was inserted in the openings of the cathead...



The mounting of wooden block started by knotting the rope...





To make the rope as straight as possible, i used a tweezers as a load...



The the rope was tied to the cathead....






The other block was installed as well..



Both assemblies....


I am not sure if positioning the anchors this way is historically (and naval practice) correctly but i decided to leave it as-is to bring up a bit more details of wooden hooks assembly. It was meant to take a "wow" from people that are looking to the model (and are not following this post 🙂)...

The anchors were tied with a rope following some techniques from other ship modeling books.










Happy modeling..



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59 minutes ago, moreplovac said:

Thanks Patrick, i actually using pictures from your blog to get more info about building process... Sometimes is good to be a follower :-)..



That's the best thing about the forum!  We can learn from each other!  I've gotten some excellent ideas for new jigs/techniques from your blog as well.  You are doing great and I will continue to follow your progress!



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So to finish up mounting the anchor, the anchor rope has to be added. First i laid the rope without thinking about other rope end that has to go thru gratings...



Then i remove the rope and tied it up again, in different direction.. At the same time i corrected the rope coil to rest on the anchor rope. Before the anchor rope was going thru the rope coil.. Not sure how 🙂





Now it looks more appropriate.







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Then i spent some quality time making other rope coils; here is end result of the coil mounted on the ship..


So, how did i got here?


There were few other forum topics explaining the technique to make a coil rope. Since i will need only two, small ones, i decided to make my own technique. It is simple and does the job quickly. I will definitely use some other ways once i need to make more larger coils and in a bigger number...


First, a pin was pushed thru the piece of spare wood. The wood was cut to allow the rope to pass thru.





Then the pin was secured in a wise and the coiling process begun..




I used tweezers to hold the coil and to prevent it from unwrapping. After few circle runs, glue was applied to the coil to freeze it.. and the pin was removed.











Then the coil was glued to the ship, first making sure i will be able to hide the end piece of rope so the transition with other rope end is smooth and not visible to a naked eye..



Small amount of glue was applied on the outer edge of the coil to have the rope glued, in the attempt to make it a part of the same coil..



The end result is very interesting...





Happy modeling..







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  • 2 weeks later...


After same time adapting to the new work place, a bit of free time allowed me to work on the ship.

In the same fashion as marked in the Practicum, i had to replace all dowels provided in the kit. Most of them were warped and pretty much useless. The boom was completed sometime ago. The dowel was shaped by measuring the diameter on few reference points from the plan. The final tapering was done by hand... Then the jaws for the boom were traced from plan and glued to the boom and final jaws shaping was done afterwards. The holes thru the jaws was drilled after the boom was completed, very carefully as wood can split. So start with tiny drill bit, don't use Proxxon, do it by hand, and progressively make the hole wider with different drill bit size. A bit time consuming but what the heck, it is a hobby.. The holes are used to hold parral beads, used to provide smooth move for the boom with less friction on the main mast...



The boom ready for assembly..


I was searching online for breads that are appropriate in size and shape to be used on the boom. Was able to locate some available in the amount of 1000 per bag, which i think it will be too much for this project so i decided to make my own. Could not find a use for 993 remaining... They will not be fully rounded, rather in the shape of a tire and i think close enough for this application. First, one tootpick was picked from the pile that had the best shape. Then using a custom made size template (two nails and a piece of scrap wood) i cut about 10 of them, in the length of 1.5mm. The sanding took place to remove any strings and to bring the beads in appropriate shape.. Using a Proxxon (as a mater of fact any other drilling tool will do the work) i drilled hole thru the appr. center of each bead.



During this process some of beads just flew somewhere off my work bench - that is why more were cut....No way i will be able to find them..



Then the string was run thru them and whole assembly was painted in flat black.



The boom ready to be mounted...



The boom was left in natural color, not painted, just stained in Golden Oak like the rest of the wood..


Before mounting i fixed all mast hoops up on the mast since they are sitting on the top of the boom jaws...



Then the other end of the rope with beads was run thru the holes of the jaws and secured with touch of glue on the top of the jaws and rope was bent and forced to the jaws. This way the rope beads does not stick up from the jaws....



The excess rope was cut and secured with a glue on the bottom of the jaws as well. Not sure what others will do but i decided not to make a knot on the beads rope since it will bring the boom up and boom will not rest properly on the mast.

The hoops were released and rested on the top of the boom..


So if you come very close you might noticed that beads are not rounded but looking from a normal distance i dont think this will be an issue.


From the opposite side...





Then i seized a 4mm double block around the boom in preparation for a boom sheet assembly..

Since i forgot to install this block ahead of time, i had to lift a boom in order to get more room for tools and hands... Just watch for these small gotchas..



And completed...


Waiting for other tasks...


Happy modeling..


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The topping lift was next. First i seized a 3mm single block to the end of not that long black rigging line. I am running out of this rigging line so have to plan every single cm... The place where i purchased these from are not making them in black anymore.



The other end of the rope was seized to the eye bolt on the cap. The length of the topping lift was adjusted according to the plan and it should be app 4cm from the boom. The tackle for the topping lift was rigged with tan rigging line (.008).







After running the rope end thru the boom it was belayed to the cleat on the boom. The complete assembly included a rope coil..


The running end was belayed to the pin on the double block which was seized to the traveler. It took me some time to do this task as the work area is not that generous in space but freezing the end of the rope and use of the small tweezers did the trick. The small rope coil was hung on the pin after all is assembled.














Then the footrope was attacked. I was not able to tight the knots on the same distance apart so i decided to use a smaller rope diameter to make knots.


The footrope was stretched to make knotting job a bit easier.





End i noticed that tomorrow is a working day so had to stop this exercise... More to come..


Happy modeling.





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  • 2 weeks later...

The foot rope has been completed and installed. The knots are done separately by knotting thinner rope over the main rope. I was unable to make all knots in the correct distance by just making knots with the main rope.







Had to resize the holes that foot rope goes thru since both ropes have to use the same opening...






Happy modeling..




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The construction of main and fore gaff has started. First the measurements were taken from the plan...


Then the gaffs were made on the lathe...


The gaffs were colored before cutting them from the lathe...



Then the making of giff end (not sure what is the correct term) was started by tracing its shape to the scotch tape...



Then, the scotch tape was put on the piece of wood, and the shape was cut. The final adjustments and mounting yet to come..



More to come...




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Next step was to cut a small grove for a jaws by positioning the gaff into wise and cutting the grove in very slowly pace. To make it a bit stronger i wrapped around gaff a small piece of scotch tape. If anyone has more efficient idea of how to cut this grove pls share it... I have one more to make...


The jaws were slide in the grove and glued. 




A little bit of sanding was applied on the whole construction to make it smoother..


Then an "iron" bands made out of electrical tape, were cut and positioned. I also added small amount of glue to make sure those "iron" band will stay put.



Then i made a small hook, drilled a hole for it in the gaff, started to push hook in, and ..... snap.



A bit too much pressure to install the hook not realizing that small amount of glue applied on both ends of the hole, started to stiffen already...


OK, well, trying to glue a jaws back on the gaff was not quite an option in this case. Before I already made few extra gaffs on lathe in longer length so used one of spares. The jaw was refurbished by removing all traces of old gaff, sanded it a bit and mounted on the new gaff.



The iron band was next, and hook making sure that glue does not cure before hook is mounted. That extra wire was sanded on opposite side of a jaws.



The layer of flat black was added afterwards..



Small holes for the parral beads were also drilled through the jaw ends..


Happy modeling.








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Fore gaff construction completed; well at least building part. Now blocks, rope, etc have to be installed.


First the shape of a jaws was traced on piece of wood, cut and sanded..



Attached to the giff, iron band installed and hole drilled.



The eye bolt mounted as well. This time no snap effect..


Painted in flat black... Ready for next step.



Happy modeling.








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Parral beads were simulated in the same way as for the boom. The beads were cut from the toothpick, the hole was drilled thru the center, the line was put thru and they were painted flat black..






The beads were also sanded close to rounded shape...


The tackles were made for throat halliard and for throat downhaul...



Peak halliard line was made starting with a eye....



The main gaff was mounted and the lines were covered with a white glue, diluted heavily with water, to stiffen the lines and to make them straight..


To help with straightening, the home made alligator clip was used...


The fore gaff waiting for installation...



Happy modeling..





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Work on fore gaff continues...



To stiffen the line and to have it look tighten, i diluted white glue 1 part glue 8 part water, using a brush i put some amount of watered glue to the line. Home made weight was connected with a piece of rope (tiny black line at the top of fore gaff) to make sure gaff stays tighten while glue dries..


Happy modeling.






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  • 2 weeks later...


The work on rigging continues... Today i started on topsail yards.. First, a layer of vanishing was applied on all three yards, so i don't forget it as i did with main and fore gaff. The peak downhaul tan rope was run through the 2.5mm single block that was seized on the tip of the gaff. The line was brought down to the mast cleat and finished with a rope coil. That area is very crowded with all details in place so people with big hands like me have to pay special attention not to break something...




Then i worked on rigging those tiny 2.5mm blocks that will be seized on the tip of topsail yards.

All topsail yards were completed before, by running them on my mini lathe and tips are finished by hand since they are fairly fragile. Then the fun begun with cleats. I have tried to shape them from a small piece of wood. Partially successful by holding them in tweezers so i can follow shape from the plan... Partially successful because, during building process and moving them to better position the file, they simply flew from tweezers.. Somewhere.

So another approach was taken. The small piece of wood was filled in concave shape so it can fit snugly to the yard and glued to the yard. Then the shape was taken from the plan and transferred to the wood.



A bit of carving took place..


Then three holes were drilled to assist with carving..



And the end result..



The layer of black paint and varnish was applied. The same will be done for two other yards.


Happy modeling.










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  • 2 weeks later...


Lower yard construction continued by rigging blocks to yard already tapered. A 3 mm double block was lashed to the center of the yard following a kit supplied instructions.. This one will be used for a halliard.


Two single blocks were seized together and placed on the ends of the yard arms. I am not quite happy with end results so need to do a bit of research to find a useful process of seizing two blocks together. Suggestions appreciated.


Single double block seizing process..




Sling for the lower yard halliards was also made, following practicum for proper dimensions..



and attached to the ship, with a bit of a weight to make it fit correctly..




On above picture the block is facing outwards but it was actually positioned properly after. The area is very populated so extra care is advisable while working..


Happy modeling.



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Did not quite like how blocks ended up so i made them again; removed from yard, and seized them into a bit more nicely manner.



I did not have enough black rope so i used tan rope that was colored in black. First time using this technique and so far looks nice.



and on the yard.



Happy modeling.




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