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Sultana 1767 by moreplovac - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/64 - Colonial Schooner


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On 2/1/2019 at 9:36 AM, Overworked724 said:

Lou is right...you made me rethink my own laziness!!!  :cheers:   Have a beer on me!!!

I was very close to make the metal one since i am trying to follow practicum but a night before, i looked some other ship building logs and noticed nice work on wooden coats so decided to give it a try...

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A work on masts have been completed.

 

The 3mm single whip blocks were mounted to correct position in front of masts.

 

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Then it was a time to install the masts. I decided to use carpenter glue to glue masts to the ship, which would give me a bit of time to properly position them and make sure they are straight..

 

First the main mast was in..

 

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Then the foremast...

 

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And both were on ...

 

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Now i have to make sure when moving the ship around and reaching out for tools; masts are tall...

 

Happy modeling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Getting ready for rigging and wrapping up work with blocks..

 

As per practicum, blocks in different size were installed. It was a bit of challenge since the masts were mounted already but not a big deal..

 

3mm blocks under trestle trees of both masts lashed to eye bolts and mounted in the pilot holes...

 

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Masts waiting rigging.

 

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Happy modeling.

 

 

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Work on shrouds started with making some zip seizing..

 

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First line is in. I used this line to check the positioning of chain plates to make sure they will line up with shroud. One chain plate is a bit out of line and need to be adjusted very slightly. The seizing for a line was not put in final position, have to make sure that other seizing sits nicely and that the whole assembly looks neat.

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There will be four pair of shrouds per mast. The 0.25 black ridging line was used for this task. I decided to mount all shrouds, position them properly so seizing lined up neat and then start with dead eye seizing..

 

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The rope was cut to correct length for few shrouds.. The end of a rope was freeze with small amount of glue and straight to make running thru per-build seizing easier.

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Here will do some repositioning of seizing to make then stay nice and neat.

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The end of rope was secured with a piece of scotch tape so it does not come in the way to other ropes.

 

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Happy modeling.

 

 

 

 

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Great work and certainly major progress.

 

I do have a question on your "zip seizing" though. Could you go into a little more explanation? I think it is pre-glued line that is slipped over the other doubled lines and secured into place, but I am not certain.

 

Again great work.

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3 hours ago, lmagna said:

Great work and certainly major progress.

 

I do have a question on your "zip seizing" though. Could you go into a little more explanation? I think it is pre-glued line that is slipped over the other doubled lines and secured into place, but I am not certain.

 

Again great work.

Yes, that is the process. Smaller size rope that match required seizing is wrapped tightly, around an objects (usually a nail) that is slightly "lubricated" with a wax so the glue does not stick to the nail. One end of the rope (beginning) is attached to a weight (custom made with alligator clips).  The rope is then wrapped around; when it is done another weight is attached to other end of the rope, the tiny layer of glue is applied over seizing to make sure the rope does not fall apart. Then it is removed from the nail with tweezers or some other tool. It assist with making shrouds and other rigging tasks. The challenge is to make a seizing that matches the dimension of rigging rope since the second end of the rigging rope has to go thru the same seizing that already have one rope run thru it. And to make sure that cyano glue does not show too much on seizing so it start bothering with its 'whitish' appearance.

I am also contemplating to make the same type of seizing but wrapped around the object that is more flat instead being a nail; this should be enough to make it more like a real thing: two ropes, parallel to each other with a flat seizing around them...

 

Here is very good site that has plenty of details about this and other techniques and tools but does require a subscription (http://www.shipmodeling.ca/subs/aa123.html ).

 

Cheers

 

 

 

 

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I actually have access to the same website. Good resource. He used drill bits but same principle. I tried zip seizings also, and made a copper plated wooden jig to pop off the formed coils after the glue set.  Worked well, but I found it difficult to thread the other end through the zipsiezing once it was on the line. But I like the clean look it gives!

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Continue with work on shrouds and run out of black rope.... had to redo the shrouds. I build them one rope run per block which is not quite true. Practicum mentioned correct way but i was not clear how it supposed to be done. A bit of a research and question answered. One rope run will have to be enough length to cover two blocks.

 

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Ordered few more but it will arrive in a week. More and more thinking of making my own ropes...

 

Happy modeling

 

 

 

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18 minutes ago, Overworked724 said:

Just messing around with my deadeye practice. I want the upper deadeyes to look uniform. Only practice will help...so using my spare vice and some thread. I’m getting there....

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moving on...

 

 

They are looking very nice; what is the size of deadeyes?

 

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41 minutes ago, Overworked724 said:

Oh my goodness!  Apologies. I meant to post on my blog but mistakenly put on yours!  Sorry about that!  😣

 

I think these are 2.5-3mm. Same size Chuck referenced in the practicum.  

 

 

No worries, at least we are sure we both read each other' posts 🙂

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A work on shrouds has started today...

 

I come up with a template that will keep the distance between two deadeyes in appr 1.3 mm distance, constant for all 16 shrouds.. Two wires twisted in the middle and glued together, a bit of tape to make it slightly bigger for easy holding...

 

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Then the rigging line is put in place, around one deadeye, the eye seizing is done with a black rope, cannot tell the rope diameter but it is tiny...

 

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It took me while to get a grip on this task just because parts are too tiny and i need to come up with correct work process to complete the task. During this activities i noticed that my 'distance holder' is not holding un-rigged deadeye good, the wire is not strong and gets twisted which cause deadeye to slip from it. The second "distance holder" was put in place but i forgot to take a picture of it. Some modelers are using a paper clip which will be working fine for bigger deadeyes..

 

Oh well, tomorrow...

 

Happy modeling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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For ridding work, my Sultana needs to have different place to stay safely. One older wise will do the trick. Some protection on grips and she is in the position. This will allow me to come closer to the work area.

 

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I had to re-event my "distance keeper" and come up with this little helper..

 

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There is a piece of scrap wood, with 4 nails, two on each end. The bottom pair will get to the deadeye attached with chainplate and top pair will be used for a deadeye that has to be seized, something like this:

 

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This will keep same distance for all lanyards..

 

The helper is in place and one rigging line is close to it.

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I also have few other helping hands available, this one will keep the short part of rigging (the end of the rigging line after makes its turn around the deadeye and goes up towards the mast) tight so it is easy to make seizing around it - this is the one that is not fully visible on the picture.

 

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The second alligator clip, with all tooth filled down, keeps two lines as close as possible together... A bit wider picture...

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A seizing is done with 0.12mm black thread..

 

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I think this amount of thread will last for few coming generations.

 

Completed seizing...

 

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Extra thread cut with a nail clipper...

 

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2 x 4 rigging lines completed..

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And all of them together..

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Deadeyes are not glued to the rigging so they can be positioned properly to match its pair.

 

Happy modeling.

 

 

 

 

 

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Lanyard work continues...

 

The shrouds are done in pairs. One pair completed, then pair on opposite side of mast is done making sure and checking very often not to over tight the mast on one side...

 

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Deadeyes i have purchased do not have properly positioned eye holes, at least majority of deadeyes.. Not sure why since it appears to me that this is mass production of deadeyes and not individual. Anyhow, i am trying to pick the best looking deadeyes and install them on the ship...

 

 

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I will need to re-tight the second shroud from the left, noticed that it is a bit higher than the others..

 

After this is completed, i have installed the sheer pool. These items would prevent deadeys from twisting while rigging the ratlines. The piece of wood was sanded to the correct shape and one layer of golden oak stain was applied. I glued the sheer pool on the shrouds and then lashed to each shroud.

 

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I left the sheer pool length a bit longer so i can hold it during assembly process.. The proper length will be cut afterwards..

 

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Happy modeling..

 

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Lanyards have been completed and sheer pools were mounted.

I was trying to make the same distance between deadeyes and to install sheer pools just above the deadeyes but it appears that the sheer pools are not quite straight.. So will following the kit plan for ratlines positions...

 

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One of the extra plan copies was used to make a template for ratlines. The template was glued to piece of cardboard and two Starbucks stirring sticks were used to stiffen the template.. The template will be to close to the lines so i think i might not be using it at all. It will be very difficult to move the string around and make decent ratlines if the template is in the way. So i decided to use a piece of wood and transfer approximate location of ratlines.

 

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This strip also serves as a holding point for ratlines rope; it keeps the beginning of line tight so i don't have to freeze first clove hitch with a glue.

 

I kept the clove hitch template close to eyes so...

 

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First three ratlines...

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For some reason mighty Greek soldier keeps coming to Sultana...

 

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Happy modeling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Ratlines, ratlines and more ratlines.. Time consuming but awarding task. The first clove hitch was tight as soon as it was completed and a small amount of glue (diluted white glue this time) was applied to it. The rest of the cloves was not secured with glue right away; instead they were secured at the end which was living a bit space to tight them up and to adjust a height as needed.

 

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Happy modeling..

 

 

 

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