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HM Brig Supply by Jobbie - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64


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G’day. I’m a new member, so this will be my first build log. I’ve been trying to decide whether to commit to a log, as there are already finished logs of the same kit here, but I’ll do this for a couple of reasons:

1: To possibly aid newcomers overcome self-doubt in starting a kit.

2: To force myself to pay more attention to my own processes, because I find myself looking at details of kits I’ve completed and wonder “How the hell did I do that bit?”

3: To benefit from other member’s advice and thereby improve my own skills. 

 

I’ll try to detail the planking process because I think it’s the bit that worries new builders. And I won’t try to hide my shoddy workmanship.

 

Feel free to pull up a pew. But grab a cushion, this may take a while. 

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The wood- First thing that struck me when I opened the kit was the amount of sawdust. Because these kits are CNC-cut (Computer Numeric Controlled 3-axis lathe) and not laser-cut, the wood is machined and not burnt, so sawdust is simply a byproduct of the process, not dodgy quality control. I figure I’ll make plenty more sawdust anyway. The gaps in the smaller cuttings are filled with tightly compressed sawdust. I’ll keep it all there until I cut out the piece to prevent breakage. 

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The fittings- All individually bagged photo-etched brass and tin cast. All look complete, at this stage. (I’ve registered my kit with the manufacturer, so I’m not worried about problems I may find later.) Most have burrs, flashing and cast marks, but a run-around with a file will clean them right up. 

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The plans- They look fine to me. This is a new experience for me; English as the manufacturer’s first language! Nothing too daunting. We’ll see their quality (or otherwise) as we build...A thin booklet, but it contains a comprehensive parts list, including part/number locator diagrams. 

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G'day Jobbie. I'm quite surprised that Caldercraft haven't shifted to laser-cutting the parts instead of CNC milling. It's a bit "old school" IMO.

 

Looking forward to following this build :).

 

Danny

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1 hour ago, kopeikin said:

Oops. This looks scary. I am currently trying to straighten a keel of Mamoli 1:90 Victory which initially had just a slight bend. I am afraid to tell that after a week of fooling around with it by soaking it in water, drying it under weights, ironing it with dress iron, drying and ironing again and again, I got it looking worse or may be no better than when I started. I regret I started this process. May be I still will be able to use this part but in any case it became about 0.5 mm thicker than other keel parts which I still have to cope with. Sorry to intrude with my own pictures. This is item 19 I tried to straighten. Burn marks are from ironing.

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Don’t apologise for intruding, Kopeikin, I appreciate the input. I haven’t had to try to straighten a keel before, so I’m as nervous as you are!

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9 hours ago, Jobbie said:

I can’t see one method being more accurate than the other, but at least there’s no unsightly burn marks. 

Maybe you haven't seen what they do with lasers lately ;). A good quality laser can cut (or burn) without any serious charring, like the bulkheads on my latest Card model :

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And I seriously doubt a CNC mill would be able to cut these 2.0mm diameter handwheels. The "missing" quarters are supposed to be like that :

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Danny

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I am very impressed with this kit, though! Without any shims, filing or heartache, all the bulkheads are literally snapping into place on the false keel with absolutely no height adjustment necessary and no wobbling. I haven’t had a kit do that with such accuracy before! I don’t believe I’ll need to use Lego bricks as 90 degree set squares when I glue them together. 

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With the stem bulkheads in place, I’m marking the false keel where they sit. I’ve drawn the line to the lowest point on the front face of each bulkhead (because the rear face will be sanded away soon) and simply continue the line to the next bulkhead.

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I plan to gradually taper the keel from the pencil line backwards- to subtract the thickness of the first and second layers of planking on each side. I’d like to not repeat the error I made on my previous builds (showing here), where the planking effectively doubles the keel width. My aim is for the keel stem to end up the same thickness as the rudder. 

 

I haven’t tried this before...What could possibly go wrong! 🤣

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Good move Jobbie :). For future reference that's called the Bearding Line, and tapering the keel from that line is more or less standard ship-building practise.

 

BTW - the keel tapers both vertically and horizontally, and also does the same at the bow but to a lesser degree. These posts - Stern  Bow - may give you a little bit if insight to keel construction.

 

Danny

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Thinking ahead: I drilled two 4.1mm holes in the false keel, 200mm apart. I’ll epoxy glue two 5/32" nuts in line with them to assist mounting the ship to a baseboard. When completed, I plan to use these mounting holes to screw her via two brass pedestals onto a display base.

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Edited by Jobbie
Screw size correction.
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Using a 6mm chisel, I’ve tapered from the previously marked bearding line down towards the keel.

The false keel’s width is 5.25mm.

The thickness of two lots of double planking by themselves (representing a first and second layer each side) is 5.26mm.

There’s only so much wood I could remove...

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Yeah, John, the Fly looks fantastic! I mainly chose this one because it's quite literally the ship that founded my nation. My wife's ancestors were part of the first fleet, but they didn't have a choice. 🤣 

Edited by Jobbie
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Hi Jobbie,

 

Thanks for starting this log. I'm half way through building a Caldercraft kits too. I've brought a cushion for the pew, and look forward to seeing this one come together. Looks like you've made a great start.

 

It's surprising how thin the stern needs to be to accommodate all the planking, isn't it. If you're still wondering how you can get it slightly narrower, one option (an option I've seen others use on this site) is to only take the first planking up to the bearding line... This means the part that reaches the sternpost only needs to be planked once (the second layer of planking) straight onto the keel former. You can see the rabbet at the bearding line for the first planking in the first photo below, and the first planking completed in the second photo.

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I'm sure you'll do a fantastic job regardless. Your previous builds look great!

 

Rob

 

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I press-fitted 2x 5/32 nuts for pedestal mounting later. I was going to Araldite them in place, but they’re not going anywhere. I don’t feel the need for a ply sandwich, either. 

 

Also, I’ve taken Rob’s advice to terminate the first planking at the bearding line, so I’ve formed a shallow rebate there.

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Ok, I’ve hit my first snag. As I’ve established the rebate to be the thickness of the first and second planking (2.6mm), the plank termination patterns (2x item 13) are now too large and need to be reduced by 2.6mm. I’ll use a finger plane and take it off the rear face to maintain the leading edge profile.

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