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mikiek

Enterprise 1799 by mikiek - Constructo - 1:51

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Sounds a little intimidating already Sam. You're talking with a guy that can turn a square stick round on the lathe but that's about it.

 

Can't speak for anyone else but never worry about posts in my threads. If it can help me or someone else it is welcome here. Whether it's one line or one thousand.

 

Just curious how you figured out the trucks were 0.02 off?

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Mike,

I had a scale drawing from, I believe, the NRG home page. I forget where I found it now, but when I scaled it to 1:51 they came up off. Also the carriages did not sit properly to my eye. As far as being difficult the only thing you need to be prescise on is the center hole and the outer diameter on the tool. I was able to find drill bits that were the right diameter. Once the raw steel was in my chuck I just drilled the center out for both the axle diameter and the truck diameter, then ground it on the sander like I described.

I get that it sounds like a lot of work, if it seems like too much then turning your dowels down on the lathe will work. I might be being overly picky but I was concerned if I tried to drill a dowel out for the axle I would never get it centered properly and would also end up splitting the dowel.That just me, I have seen several builds where the builder pulled it off quite well.

Aww jeeze! I just realized something, I could have drilled the dowel out on the lathe and then sliced them!!!!!:default_wallbash:

 

Sam

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Looking very nice Mike! Do you plan on painting the hull? If you didn't do the second layer, how much of a difference does it make to the hull's overall dimensions, taking into account the width of the wood used for the second planking?

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Long time no see Elijah. Glad you checked in.

 

The 2nd layer sticks are 0,5mm thick. Not much.  In this case they could have been left out. The problem was they shorted me some of the 1st layer sticks so I had to use some basswood. A real color clash. The 2nd layer is needed to hide the basswood.

 

Often the 2nd layer is thicker. Then you do start running into situations where you really can't go without it or risk changing dimensions and having some other part not fit.

 

No paint on this guy. Debating whether to oil it all before lacquering. That might look nice but the oil can darken things up quite a bit. I want to keep the reddish tint of the sapelli wood. Maybe just my usual Natural stain first. Or maybe just the lacquer. Still thinking.

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i have been taking my time with the rest of the planking. Was  doing some of the other tasks and getting parts ready but all the pix in the manual show many of the parts contact the hull in one way or another. Of course that doesn't work until there is a hull to contact. So all of that is put aside until planking is done.

 

I've got about 1/3 from the top down finished and about 1/3 from the keel up done. That leaves the toughest part. Lots of stealers and that joint where the deadwood planking meets the transom planking. That has to be a real snug fit - no gaps. So far using 5mm planks as stealers seems to be working. It's just that it requires more stealers than when I used the 7mm sticks for stealers on layer one. Fortunately they are blending together well.

 

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Also, it's obvious I have tapered the 2nd layer sticks differently (didn't plan it that way) as you can see layer one curving upwards in places where layer two is straight or curves down. Guess that doesn't matter as long as it all fits. And there's only 6 more strakes to make it all work out.

 

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Edited by mikiek

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With a little hindsight in hand, and for all you future builders - Do that 2nd planking immediately after doing the first. I have broken off both rails, the transom and put a pretty good gash in the companionway shelter during the 2nd planking. As dreary as it sounds, just do it. I should have. And Constructo should have said so in the manual.

 

I'm down to the last 4 strakes. These are going to be pretty wild. At the bow there's really only room for 2 more, and that's with them really tapered down. A the stern the same strakes will need stealers to completely cover the area. I'm trying to decide if I went wrong somewhere or if the boat just has a big stern area. I'm going to end up with 4 strakes with stern stealers (1 going into 2) to make this work.

 

Should have more pix soon.

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Shape planks one for each side. How many times have I heard that? The last 4 strakes are real bears. I finished one side but did not make duplicates for the other side. So those will be custom shaped as well :default_wallbash:   He's great at handing out advice, but not so great at following it. Should be done planking soon.

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Dang - almost 2 weeks since I posted. I haven't been goofing off - not too much. Came across this game Naval Action a while back. I find it almost mesmerizing and fun to play. A lot of time spent there lately.

 

Work is continuing since the completion of the hull. There are a few deck items and hull trim going in and the next step is the masts. I'm starting the channels and preparing do drill out the holes for the masts. That's always a troubling exercise for me. That and the hawsers. The plans show the main mast at no angle, flush with a frame piece. The foremast is angled although there is nothing stating how much. The manual - " drill mast holes per plan".  Well thank you.

 

This kit has had it's ups and downs. I've been shorted several more sizes of sticks but then there will be some good technique for doing something. I'll try to do a short eval when it's all over.

 

Here's a few shots:

 

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I did an initial wipe down of the hull with linseed oil but all the pieces added afterwards are still unfinished.

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Trim at the bow (head). Camera sure makes it look rough.

 

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In the plans those rails are set almost 1/2" higher. Way too high. Took them down some.

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In need of a cleanup for sure!   Thanks for reading......

 

Edited by mikiek

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Hey Sam - thanks for asking. I have been distracted by some other things and neglected Enterprise. That said, work has continued sporadically. The hull and all the trimmings are done except for the posts/webbing that mount to the handrail. This is in progress. Most of the spars are done and the main & fore masts have tops and shrouds.

 

I will post pix this weekend

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Man this is gonna be a challenge. Been so long I dont remember how to post pix. Here goes....easy enough. Lets get them here...

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My pix have always sucked and I have told myself it must be the camera. Well these are from a brand new DSLR and I must say - they still suck! But I do see some things that might improve them.

 

Anyways here's Enterprise - hull & deck completed and dressed. I have started the shrouds (not shown here) so rigging has officially started. Hope it doesn't take another year to post pix of that 😜

 

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Mike,

Thats looking good! Dont worry if its another year, you will most likely still finish before I do.... LOL!

Sam

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Thank you Sam.  You know i started rigging - lower shrouds are done - but the order of rigging here is quite different than my last project. Seems to go against common wisdom. They want all masts stepped first. Then shrouds go in with the rats. Stays next, but everything done on the boat. '

 

I will say the rigging doesn't look too difficult, I guess the schooner rig was simpler than 3 sectioned masts square rigged. I'm gonna follow the guide as best I can and see how this method pans out.

 

I do have to say the kit rope is hideous, very frayed & fuzzy. So I'm going with a combination of Syren  and some leftovers. My next picture milestone will be after the deadeyes are all laced up. I'm figuring a week or so for that. Only holdup might be the channel deadeyes seem very loose - I didn't care for how the guide tells me to put them in but I went for it anyway. I'm hoping all those deadeyes don't have to be reinstalled.

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Mike,

I took the last of the kit parts, including the instructions and threw them in a box somewhere. Everything is new lumber for masts and new rope and blocks from Syren.

As far as the order of rigging goes I downloaded a copy of the Syren instructions from Model Shipways and I have TFFM vol4, Rigging as well as Lees Masting ad Rigging that I am using for inspiration. It has got me on trouble in a few places but I think I am getting a better education that will pay off when I finally get around to a more adventurous build.

Looking forward to your photo updates.

Sam

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Getting some progress made on the rigging. Shrouds & ratlines are in. Got a few more stays to put in. The instructions are getting worse - the book is just too general for rigging steps and the rig plan is very inaccurate and incomplete. Shrouds & stays are pretty much common sense - not too hard to figure how they should run. Running rig is a different animal however. The thing i don't like is the plans say to drill holes in the upper masts to run the stays thru. IMO drilling 3-4  .35mm holes in close proximity in a .5mm stick is not a wise thing to do. I have elected to seize all shrouds & stays instead.

 

I'm thinking ahead to the sails also. I was dreading having to stitch a hem around each of them like I had to do the last time I did sails. Lucked out here. I guess I ordered the deluxe sail kit with the boat. I have to say these sails look quite nice and come already hemmed with the rope (dont know the proper term) stitched around the edge. All very professionally done! That saves a month or more of work and I doubt I could have matched the way they came. The only additional thing I'm doing is inserting a piece of wire into the hems. This will allow me to shape the sails somewhat and they will hold the shape. I'll post pix of that as I get more serious with the sails. At the moment I'm just inserting all the wire.

 

On the philosophical side. I've always used Syren rope for every build. None can argue it's quality or the extra bang it adds to a build. I use tan for running rigging and black for standing. A while back Syren made the decision to discontinue black rope and offer a dark brown instead. I didn't think much of it at the time except that I like to seize my black rope with a dark brown fly line. I liked that there was enough contrast to see the seizing but it didnt stick out like a sore thumb like seizing black with tan does. Unfortunately, my brown fly line becomes invisible on the dark brown rope. So I guess when I make the switch to brown rope I'll have to find a new seizing color. Now for the philosophy - if you think about it Syren has a lot of influence on how our builds look. Granted using Syren products is totally the builders choice, but I think many, many of us do. I try to imagine all the builds that must be on display with Syren ropes & blocks. And we have used black rope for standing rigging almost as a best practice. Now just like that, black is out, brown is in. Within a year, there will be no more boats built with black rope - at least black Syren rope. Brown is the new black and just like that black standing rigging disappears.

 

I will say, after my soapbox rant, that this is not an indictment of Syren or Chuck in any way. Obviously they are free to offer what they choose. I will continue to buy Syren products (brown rope included) and support them. It was just an observation I had that I wanted to share.

 

Now for a few pix. All the new camera gear and photography research I am doing is beginning to make me think in a different way as I take boat pix now. There's a lot more to it than just snapping away. Lens, light, distance, depth of field all must be considered. These pix may be a slight improvement over previous ones, but I think I am seeing the light on what it takes to produce something better than a snapshot. To me the photo side of our hobby is overlooked but is critical. A good photo can make a crappy build look good. A bad photo makes the best build look mediocre. This was my first attempt at a shoot of Enterprise. I think things will get better. One thing I haven't worked out is size, so I apologize if your viewer makes you scroll around to see it all.

 

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