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Charles W. Morgan by ragove - Model Shipways - 1/64th scale


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Before planking the deck you might think about sealing the inside of the hull with liquid epoxy or resin. I had problems with some of the first planked hulls I built with cracks appearing between the planks after a few years of heat and humidity cycles. The edges of some of the planks rose above the neighboring planks. Looks pretty nasty!

 

Then I used a thin two part epoxy paint that aircraft modelers use to seal balsa motor mounts. It is applied like a paint with a brush, and it soaks into the wood of the planking and bulkheads. After it sets the hull is very solid. After three decades there are no hints of cracks.

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10 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Looks great!  The bulwarks are not easy when you have to individually set up all the stanchions.

 

If one looks closely there are some irregularities. It was, as you point out, difficult to get them all alighted. 

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8 hours ago, Dr PR said:

Before planking the deck you might think about sealing the inside of the hull with liquid epoxy or resin. I had problems with some of the first planked hulls I built with cracks appearing between the planks after a few years of heat and humidity cycles. The edges of some of the planks rose above the neighboring planks. Looks pretty nasty!

 

Then I used a thin two part epoxy paint that aircraft modelers use to seal balsa motor mounts. It is applied like a paint with a brush, and it soaks into the wood of the planking and bulkheads. After it sets the hull is very solid. After three decades there are no hints of cracks.

I will consider that. Thanks.

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A lesson on reading ahead and studying the plans.  I was about to start the planking when I read the second paragraph in the instruction’s section on planking. It said there is part call a “thick pad” around the main mast and should be put in before planking, so as to plank around it.  This is not shown in the simplified deck plan on sheet (#tbd). On the other hand this plan sheet recommends adding some scrap wood around the hatch positions to help support the hatch coamings and deck planks, which is also in the instructions but I overlooked it at first. So be careful. Plans and instructions complement each other. Additionally, there is no laser cut “thick pad” in my kit. It is not mentioned on the list of laser cut parts and I couldn’t find such a piece. So I scratch built it.  The mast in the photo is just there to keep everything aligned. 

776C1452-32C1-4A37-9260-20F9A96ABC1D.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I put some planking down as reference and then begin assembling coamings for the various hatches etc. In the photo I am test fitting the coaming around the main hatch opening. I still need to trim back the decking at tiny bit.  I am finding it very difficult to work with wood to tolerances of 1/64” or less. 😬 My eyes certainly aren’t what they used to be.  The photo also demonstrates the versatility of the Hobby Zone building slip 

831B0640-13B3-4806-A0A7-B2300E6675C4.jpeg

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Looking great!  You've already passed me on my build.  :)

 

How are you finding the deck planking going?  I am at about that stage on my build.  Was thinking about putting a sub floor piece in to make the planking a little more even and possibly with better support.  Either way, it looks like one needs to consider building in some underlying framing to support the hatches, etc.

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We’ve been spending winters (Januaryish to aprilish) in Florida for the past 14 years or so. In a travel trailer until this year. Since were both in our mid seventies we now prefer hotels and nice cabins. Florida is wonderful until May. Then it is just to darn hot!

We could never live here year round. I will say that Florida has just about the best state parks we’ve seen and we’ve stayed in more than 1/2 of the states in the US.  Our favorite is Grayton Beach State Park. This year we will stay in one of their cottages. We love the white sandy beaches all along the panhandle. 

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I am making progress. I estimate that I have put about 20 to 30 hours into the coppering over 10 days.

And a recommendation for peace and quiet in a natural setting. You can’t do much better than Fanning Springs State Park, 10 miles north of Chiefland, Florida. Their cabins are fantastic; two bedrooms, full kitchen, big lounging area, a gas fireplace and a screened porch on 2 sides. 

294AFB77-4509-4038-93A8-72E6522C7F21.jpeg

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It is quite tricky to get a nice flow in the compound curves at the stern. I tried to let the copper tiles tell me where they wanted to flow naturally. The real challenge will be to duplicate the pattern on the port side. Good thing one  will only be able to one side at a time.  If it doesn’t match exactly I doubt anyone would notice. Also, the instructions state that the actual pattern for the copper is unknown. So...who’s to say I am wrong?

it is actually much smoother in reality than the weird reflections would imply. 

DFFC2ECB-D774-487B-B318-C397B3236D7F.jpeg

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7 hours ago, Scoot said:

Nice job on the build. Coppering looks good. Here is a pic of a section of coppered planking from Mystic Seaport.

Not sure if it is from a real vessel or made as a display.

 

Scoot

DSCN0704.jpg

Thanks for the comment and the photo. I visited the Morgan at Mystic many years ago but I don’t know where any of my photos are. 😞 Where is Barre MA?  I spent the first 23 years of my life in Saugus, MA, a Boston suburb. 
I thought about trying to add rivet/nail detail but decided anything I did would be grossly out of scale.

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