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ragove

Charles W. Morgan by ragove - Model Shipways - 1/64th scale

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Before planking the deck you might think about sealing the inside of the hull with liquid epoxy or resin. I had problems with some of the first planked hulls I built with cracks appearing between the planks after a few years of heat and humidity cycles. The edges of some of the planks rose above the neighboring planks. Looks pretty nasty!

 

Then I used a thin two part epoxy paint that aircraft modelers use to seal balsa motor mounts. It is applied like a paint with a brush, and it soaks into the wood of the planking and bulkheads. After it sets the hull is very solid. After three decades there are no hints of cracks.

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10 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Looks great!  The bulwarks are not easy when you have to individually set up all the stanchions.

 

If one looks closely there are some irregularities. It was, as you point out, difficult to get them all alighted. 

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8 hours ago, Dr PR said:

Before planking the deck you might think about sealing the inside of the hull with liquid epoxy or resin. I had problems with some of the first planked hulls I built with cracks appearing between the planks after a few years of heat and humidity cycles. The edges of some of the planks rose above the neighboring planks. Looks pretty nasty!

 

Then I used a thin two part epoxy paint that aircraft modelers use to seal balsa motor mounts. It is applied like a paint with a brush, and it soaks into the wood of the planking and bulkheads. After it sets the hull is very solid. After three decades there are no hints of cracks.

I will consider that. Thanks.

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On 12/9/2019 at 9:30 PM, Landlubber Mike said:

Looks great!  The bulwarks are not easy when you have to individually set up all the stanchions.

 

Thanks. A close look shows they are far from perfect. 

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A lesson on reading ahead and studying the plans.  I was about to start the planking when I read the second paragraph in the instruction’s section on planking. It said there is part call a “thick pad” around the main mast and should be put in before planking, so as to plank around it.  This is not shown in the simplified deck plan on sheet (#tbd). On the other hand this plan sheet recommends adding some scrap wood around the hatch positions to help support the hatch coamings and deck planks, which is also in the instructions but I overlooked it at first. So be careful. Plans and instructions complement each other. Additionally, there is no laser cut “thick pad” in my kit. It is not mentioned on the list of laser cut parts and I couldn’t find such a piece. So I scratch built it.  The mast in the photo is just there to keep everything aligned. 

776C1452-32C1-4A37-9260-20F9A96ABC1D.jpeg

Edited by ragove
clarification

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I put some planking down as reference and then begin assembling coamings for the various hatches etc. In the photo I am test fitting the coaming around the main hatch opening. I still need to trim back the decking at tiny bit.  I am finding it very difficult to work with wood to tolerances of 1/64” or less. 😬 My eyes certainly aren’t what they used to be.  The photo also demonstrates the versatility of the Hobby Zone building slip 

831B0640-13B3-4806-A0A7-B2300E6675C4.jpeg

Edited by ragove

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Looking great!  You've already passed me on my build.  :)

 

How are you finding the deck planking going?  I am at about that stage on my build.  Was thinking about putting a sub floor piece in to make the planking a little more even and possibly with better support.  Either way, it looks like one needs to consider building in some underlying framing to support the hatches, etc.

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Good work. This was a fun build for me -different from the usual ships of war. I had the privilege of visiting her during the build which made for even greater satisfaction.  

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On 12/26/2019 at 2:47 PM, Landlubber Mike said:

in some underlying framing to support the hatches,

Definitely need to do that. The finished deck was a bit uneven but sanding corrected that. 
 

 

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The wife and I are heading off to Florida for a bit of sun and shrimp. I've packed up the hull, the copper strips, some sharp knives and the plans and hope to have her coppered by the time we return.

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Welcome to my world. You just missed the super wx, but it's still better than VA. now. Here we only build when it's to hot

to go out.

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We’ve been spending winters (Januaryish to aprilish) in Florida for the past 14 years or so. In a travel trailer until this year. Since were both in our mid seventies we now prefer hotels and nice cabins. Florida is wonderful until May. Then it is just to darn hot!

We could never live here year round. I will say that Florida has just about the best state parks we’ve seen and we’ve stayed in more than 1/2 of the states in the US.  Our favorite is Grayton Beach State Park. This year we will stay in one of their cottages. We love the white sandy beaches all along the panhandle. 

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I am partial to “Slap ya Mama” but Tony’s all we could find in the keys😀. I have finished the lower band. Should have pictures  in a couple days. We are traveling from St Pete Beach to Fanning Springs State Park today. 

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10 minutes ago, Retired guy said:

The coppering looks very nice great job 👍

 

Regards

Richard

Thanks!

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Looks good I’ll be following your build. We seem to be at the same stage. My build is a solid hull which I think simplified the hull build. Your copper plating looks great. 

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I am making progress. I estimate that I have put about 20 to 30 hours into the coppering over 10 days.

And a recommendation for peace and quiet in a natural setting. You can’t do much better than Fanning Springs State Park, 10 miles north of Chiefland, Florida. Their cabins are fantastic; two bedrooms, full kitchen, big lounging area, a gas fireplace and a screened porch on 2 sides. 

294AFB77-4509-4038-93A8-72E6522C7F21.jpeg

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It is quite tricky to get a nice flow in the compound curves at the stern. I tried to let the copper tiles tell me where they wanted to flow naturally. The real challenge will be to duplicate the pattern on the port side. Good thing one  will only be able to one side at a time.  If it doesn’t match exactly I doubt anyone would notice. Also, the instructions state that the actual pattern for the copper is unknown. So...who’s to say I am wrong?

it is actually much smoother in reality than the weird reflections would imply. 

DFFC2ECB-D774-487B-B318-C397B3236D7F.jpeg

Edited by ragove
Clarify

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