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7ACC6B87-F38B-4A69-A4BC-A955F50521EC.thumb.png.4ab0d377de246817493a865b7f8a2dea.pngHi there guys. I’m currently working on Mamoli’s HMAV Bounty and I’m reaching the tiller rigging stage. I’m trying to do a quality job and am happy with my progress so far but I’m approaching the rigging stage and don’t want my rigging job to let the model down.... I have several questions that will probably seem really basic to some of the seasoned modelers on here. But I’m struggling to find information or clear answers on the subject.

 

Firstly is it correct that the thicker rope between the block and the loop that goes through the eyebolt in the illustrated picture on my bounty plans is from a separate smaller rope making it appear to be thicker? Or is it the same rope? Which is the ideal way to do it? Is here any good videos or books that I can download that can show me how to do these kind of basics? I have no shortage of ropes so either way doesn’t bother me...I’m just trying to do it most realistic looking way possible and learn. 

 

Secondly the way the plans are asking me to fix the eyebolt into the the deck seems unusual to me. And I just wanted to clarify that it isn’t another mistake in the plans (which I have noticed a few) 

The eyebolt has a width of .5 mm and drilling a 1.5 mm hole in the deck sounds wide to me, even for a folded eyebolt. Just wanted to check that this is common practice. 

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The rope you refer to is called a strop. It is basically a single loop of rope lashed together between the block and hook. There are many ways of making this loop up at scale size. Perhaps the simplest way is to lash a length of line into a small loop, capturing the hook first. Then take the two ends of the line around the sides of  the block, glueing them. Cut and glue the line ends neatly at the top of the block.

 

Usually hooks engage an eyebolt. I suspect the wire is twisted to make a stem. Is that why the hole required is larger than the diameter of the wire?

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Hi druxy. And thank you very much for the quick reply. I think I understand your suggested method for rigging the blocks I will try it shortly. 

 

As for fixing the eyebolt to the deck, the plans the plans show this illustration46251C3E-6112-4961-8B2E-79585AF82C2E.thumb.png.433839d8a58350f060aa621bae21c563.png the plans still state that the hole is 1.5 mm but the deadeye is not that width...yet still the illustration shows the deadeye sitting snug in its hole with no real gaps. 

This is how it looks in realityED9B99B0-2D19-4F67-9551-5643516927A6.thumb.jpeg.6ec7b67eb79188e76d04a42fe715639c.jpegDA8C3D21-BEB2-44EA-AD72-40E88D72AEE1.thumb.jpeg.972c6d467d2dec21cdcfe5a99895fe5f.jpegit certainly isn’t the snug fit that is shown in the plans. But it if it is common practice I will proceed as the plans state?

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Make the hole just big enough to put eyebolt in.  Some just bend the eyebolt "tail" 90 degrees, others drill the hole at an angle, and others just insert it into the hole.  A little (very little) epoxy or CA will secure it in position. 

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