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genericDave

Byrnes table saw blade for cutting planks

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I'm going to attempt to cut my own planks for my current build since my puppy ate the material that came with my kit.  I've found a lot of great info by going through all the threads here and in the wood forum.  I found this thread particularly helpful: byrnes table saw questions.  I feel like the resources on this site (including the PDFs in the Articles Database) have given me a great start on all the various tips and tricks.  Aside from finalizing my wood selection, I only have one thing left to figure out...

 

I'm considering buying a new table saw blade, and wanted to ask for suggestions on which one to get.

 

I have a Byrnes table saw with the stock 4in carbide blade.  I've successfully made test planks using this down to 1/32" thick from boxwood and swiss pear, and the results are certainly good enough to use.  But I've read that a slitting blade will improve the finish, and that a blade with less kerf will waste less wood.  Since wood isn't cheap (and is getting harder to source with various vendors shutting down temporarily or permanently), making the most from each board is very appealing.  However, I saw that if you go too thin on the blade, it might bend or warp when it heats up.

 

But when I go look at the blades available on the Byrnes site, I'm feeling a little overwhelmed.  I see blades with a .04 kerf, .03 kerf, and .02 kerf.  I'm also seeing all kinds of different teeth numbers.  I'm also not sure if using a 3" or 4" blade will matter with what I'm cutting.

 

So my question is:  If I'm going to be cutting planks from wood up to about 3/16" thick (probably things like boxwood or swiss pear, with maybe a little cherry or such), which blades from Byrnes would you suggest?  (List of what they offer is here.)  I know I can get blades from a variety of places, but I'd prefer to stick with ordering from Byrnes because I need to order a draw plate anyway, and I've been really happy with their product and want to continue to support them whenever I can.

 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

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Thru experience, I have learned that the cutting does not happen the way one might wish.

The blade has to remove the wood that it cuts, This translates into - the thicker the stock,

the fewer teeth and deeper gullet for the blade.  The thicker the stock - the degree of set on the teeth

has an effect on cutting efficiency.  No set and a thin blade = smooth cut surface and less wood loss

to kerf, but if can - the blade will burn the cut surface due to friction - will want to bind and may flex.

 

With a selection of blades, for any stock thickness, the goal is to find the blade with the most teeth, lowest set,

thinnest body that will cut without binding, burning, wobbling and unacceptable kickback ( it hurts getting hit in the belly

with a piece of thrown planking.)  

Start with the most aggressive blade and work to the finest that will work.

Unfortunately, the slitting blades are pretty much limited to doing just that, making grating mortise and such like.

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Here's the documentation that was on one of our wood supplier's website.   It's an excellent resource and includes his recommended blades...  I'm having a brain f**t and even though I bought a lot of wood from him, I can't remember his name...<sigh>   

 

 

 

 

Byrnes Saw Operation.pdf

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Thanks for all the quick responses!

 

@jimbyr, I was seriously just going to email you and ask what to order, but I rarely post outside of my build logs so I was trying to get my post count up :)  That was one of the blades I was focusing on, so it sounds like one I definitely need.

 

@Jaager, I am considering just getting a small selection of blades while I'm at it, and doing some trial-and-error to learn the differences.  I'm still working on sourcing the wood (thinking I'll get the boxwood from Chuck, because I want to support when I can, but if I want other woods like some Swiss pear, I need to find a source), and I might end up with some varying thicknesses if I go with a local source (turns out we have 2-3 specialty wood dealers in Austin, Texas...who knew).  I've also got a bunch of samples of different woods that I ordered earlier this year (in anticipation of starting to work with higher quality materials), so I'll be well equipped to do some trial runs.

 

@Moab, I keep hearing/seeing recommendations for the slitter blades, so I think I definitely need to add at least one to my little workshop-in-a-closet.  I think Jim's helpfulness is obvious given that he was the first reply in this thread :)  I can't imagine better customer service than I've seen from Byrnes.

 

@mtaylor, That is an excellent pdf.  It has a lot of the advice I've seen around the forums in one convenient place.  Already added it to my library of saved docs :)  I also got a copy pm'd to me from another member.  I think I've read it 3-4 times now, and I learn something new every time.

 

So, assuming I grab the 3" 90 tooth .03 kerf blade Jim recommends, are there a couple other blades I should grab at the same time to get me 'covered' with a good set of blades?

 

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