Centerboard Schooner C. Chase 1846 by Maurys - Scale 1:48 - FINISHED

[russ]

Maury:

On the centerboard schooner models I have planked, the side view generally as a slight upward sweep coming into the stem, but if you turn the model over and look at it from the bottom, the planks will curve inward at the stem. Thus, the actual shape will have a slight S shape, but not as much as what I am seeing in your planking. 

 

A lot of this has to do with how the hull is lined off. Druxey's illustration should point the way. 

 

As for drop planks, on a hull such as this, I have never seen a drop plank used. On a fuller bow shape it is sometimes necessary to drop a plank. Our local builders would trim down to a minimum of 3-4 inches at the stem, but the strake could have a max width of maybe 7-9 inches. The planking rule you speak of had a lot of elasticity. 

 

Russ

 

 

[Maury S]

Optical illusions...My earlier planking layouts consisted of dividing the number of planks along each frame and I ended up with that inappropriate "bump" as seen in post #113 where the pencil is pointing in the second shot.  This time, I ran a (glued) string from the measured point of intersection of the stem piece to a few points along several of the frames and then looked at the line from the side.  From there, I moved the string(s) up or down on each frame so the run APPEARED nice and smooth from the side and a nice smooth line looking from fore and aft.  Blue tape is used for the spacing at the bow without marking the wood.

 

The run is much smoother now as seen the the following pics.

The strings are tacked down only about 10 - 12 frames back from the bow. 

Minor tweaks to be done and the planks will appear to come to the stem much more smoothly now and the view from the side will be much closer to Druxey's suggested flow.

Maury

 

[druxey]

That's the trick to lining out, Maury: first divide the space to be planked mathematically, then adjust things until they look good to the eye from all angles. First the science, then the art!

[Maury S]

The new lining out worked fine.  Druxey, thanks again for the reminder that the art still has to come in!

I've removed all the offending planks and re-lined out three bands.

The strings actually line up at the bow...angle distortion.  Some minor tweaking since the photos and all seems to be falling into place well.

Maury

[Dowmer]

Ahhh,  Much better Maury. Looking good. 

 

 

Edited March 11, 2019 by Dowmer

[druxey]

Glad the new scheme is working out, Maury! Perhaps move the threads up slightly at the bow as shown?

[Maury S]

Druxey, I had that pattern early and from the side view, the big "hump" appeared (see post #113).  By shifting them to how they are now, the "hump" disappears and the line is fair from the side as well as every other view I examine.

Maury

[druxey]

Thanks, Maury. It looks (from the angle of the photo), that the first band of planking above the garboard might have to taper too much as it reaches the bow rabbet. Hopefully that isn't the case! Also, that an angle might appear forward of the third strake away from the garboard.

[Maury S]

planking is getting done slowly.

Dark lines are not a gaps...just the pencil marked edge not sanded.

I have to check the 2nd plank below the wale to make sure it is seated in the rabbet...looks like it's come out.

Thinking towards the ceiling planking (inboard).  None of the drawings of cross-sections I have show any limber strakes or boards.  Were those things primarily on naval boats? 

 

Maury

 

 

[druxey]

Usually on merchant craft there were no limber boards or channels above the floors. The drainage channel consisted of notches in the floors on their undersides, next to the garboard. Water flowed along under the frames, along the garboards, to the lowest point in the ship. Bilge water was then removed by the pumps.

[Maury S]

Thank you Druxey

[Maury S]

Planking continues.  Using the sacrificial bass wood for spiling patterns has really simplified the process.  It's really nothing like using card for patterns. Being able to sand to a tight tolerance on the pattern makes a huge difference.

You can see the un-planked window on the port side developing.

 

 

 

 

Maury

Edited April 2, 2019 by Maurys
remove link posted in error

[druxey]

While I've not found this necessary, I'm glad that basswood spiled patterns work better for you!

[Maury S]

Getting near the end of the outer planking...The remaining starboard drop plank(s) have been spiled but not yet bent.

They were shaped and fit but not glued in place 'til everything lines up properly.

Maury

[Maury S]

Starboard Planking is done.

 

 

I'll finish the port side, leaving a portion unplanked.  Three strakes to go, then some sanding and touchup.

Maury

 

[Maury S]

Whiskey strake is in.  Counter is planked.  I'll finish the transom before reattaching to the building board for the interior.

Rubber band is to protect the stem.

Maury

 

[druxey]

Well done, Maury. I hope that you hoisted a glass!

[Maury S]

Indeed, I did.

M

[Mark Pearse]

brilliant, that's lovely

[Maury S]

Back to the shipyard after a vacation.

Attached is a photo of a portion of Chapelle's original drawing showing a "Scupper Strake" just above the wale. 

Does this mean that there is a continuous opening in the bulwarks or that scupper holes were placed as needed in that strake?  All evidence I've gathered indicates these were "wet boats".  Getting water off the deck would have been important.

Appreciate any comments.

Maury

[druxey]

Looks like a long cut-out slot along the top or bottom of the strake, Maury.

[Dowmer]

Are there any pictures of the boat or similar ones of the time period to give you a better idea?

 

 

[Maury S]

Druxey, That's what I'm thinking. It exposes the frames to wear but I expect the bulwark frames were abutted to the top futtocks and were replaceable.   Dowmer, there is no other info. about the boat than the Chapelle drawing and commentary in the National Watercraft Collection.

Maury

Edited May 21, 2019 by Maurys
spelling

[Maury S]

She's back on the building board and ready for planking the ceilings.

Since the centerboard is off-center, the keelsons are not equal port and starboard.

The first course of ceiling planks will line up for the subsequent strakes.

The first pieces are just spiled, bent and laid in place.  Some more tweaking to be done.

By the way, since Chuck has been praising Alaskan Yellow Cedar, I thought I'd give it a try on the interior.  It's certainly a lot softer than box.  When I sand the edges, there is some fiber left hanging so I'll have to be careful about that.  There is an obvious cedar aroma, so I won't be getting any moths (or shipworms).

Maury

Edited May 25, 2019 by Maurys
additional comment

[Maury S]

More ceiling strakes.  Long-nosed clamps where they fit, Pressure from gantry above deeper into the hull.

Butt pattern is the same as the outer planking, but not on the same frames.

Maury

Edited May 27, 2019 by Maurys
added comment

[Maury S]

While waiting for glue to dry, I knocked out the blanks for the two mast steps.  Notches around the several keelson timbers cut on the Byrnes saw using a sled.  Mortises will be cut once the masts are ready to be set. 

 

 

 

The fore mast is on center-line and the main is off-center to right of the centerboard well.

 

At this stage, the starboard side has one more strake than the port.  BTW, I've started using Yellow Instrument Glue from Luthiers Merchantle Int'l.  Seems to hold every bit as well as Titebond, and has a fluorescent dye that shows up under black light for better cleanup.  About the same cost.

Maury

 

 

[druxey]

Nice progress, Maury. Does this mean that the main mast is off-center or does it 'lean' a bit to bring the mast head back to the centerline?

 

The idea of fluorescing glue is an interesting one. That's a new one for me!

[Maury S]

Druxey,

All the info I've garnered about off-center masts indicate they were plumb (head does NOT lean to the center).  This countered the sailing impact of the centerboard being off center (on the other side of center-line).  I've seen quite a few examples in my journey with this build.  Re: glue, I learned of this at  Modelshipworld  link:  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/943-gluing-techniques-and-associated-information/page/4/?tab=comments#comment-628081  post #93 (Thank you Vossiewulf).  The dye really stands out under the black light so you can clean up smudges and spills before it sets.  

Maury

 

[druxey]

Thanks for the clarification on the mast orientation, Maury.

[Maury S]

This is NOT a full review of the book, hence not in the Book Review Section...just some comments:

The Evolution of the Wooden Ship by Basil Greenhill with illustrations by Sam Manning has been extremely helpful.  Sam Manning's drawings are tremendous and answer so many detail questions that arise in the course of a model construction.

Maury