Centerboard Schooner C. Chase 1846 by Maurys - Scale 1:48 - FINISHED

[niwotwill]

Been following your build throughout the process and its looking very very very nice. Im designing the Pungy Amanda F. Lewis, plans from Smithsonian, on TurboCad and you've given me many ideas. While reading your last post  I remembered I.ve  made similar parts using brass beading wire, hobby lobby, of .02 did wire which results into .96 dia. For the small i.d. I wrapped the wire around a #56 (.043) drill bit held in a vice and made a loop of the wire held in a pin vice and twisted the wire forming the loop. The wire work hardness during the twisting.

 

Again model looks great really enjoy your posts.

Will

[druxey]

Catching up with your progress, Maury. Coming along nicely. Glad you decided to modify the metalwork.

[Mark Pearse]

Hi Maury

 

for soldering multiple pieces near to each other, I found that after doing one solder I took some narrow strips of fabric soaked in water & then wrapped around the first solder, did the next one etc. You might already have tried that, but it worked for me.

 

The spars work is looking very nice.

[mtaylor]

4 hours ago, Mark Pearse said:

Hi Maury

 

for soldering multiple pieces near to each other, I found that after doing one solder I took some narrow strips of fabric soaked in water & then wrapped around the first solder, did the next one etc. You might already have tried that, but it worked for me.

 

The spars work is looking very nice.

 

You could also use an alligator clip.  They pull the heat off also and pretty quick.

[Maury S]

I've re-done the iron work on the mast tops.  They were out of scale.  Instead of using eyebolts, I've gone to staples.  They are much cleaner (and smaller).

 

The upper one is fit with a thimble for the main boom topping lift.

Maury

 

Edited April 8, 2020 by Maury S
dupe photo

[druxey]

Heat sinks? Small pieces of either apple or potato do nicely. And smell good, too!

[Maury S]

The gammon iron is in place (needs blackening), the staples and thimbles for the bowsprit guys are in.  The guys are .018" (.865" at scale) rope from Syren, served the whole length using Chuck's handy "Serv-o-matic" device.  They are temporarily held in place with alligator clips.  I think there is some bees wax residue visible that has to be removed.

Maury

[Maury S]

I removed the rail and thinned it about 1/3.   At scale it's now about 2-1/2" thick.   Much better now.

Maury

[druxey]

A good improvement visually, Maury. 

 

About beeswax: from my reading, it's a bit of an old wives' tale that has been passed down generations of ship modelers. It is acidic in pH, so eventually.... If you must wax, use Renaissance wax, which is pH neutral.

[Maury S]

There must have been a lot of old wives back then.  I can remember being told to use old tooth paste tubes for metal pieces.

Maury

[Maury S]

Bow Sprit  guys installed.  I'm glad I waited for those Radio Shack Test Clips. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23876-rigging-clips/ They made it so much easier getting my fingers in there.  Ends are not cut off yet.  I'm waiting to see if any adjustment is necessary. Seizings are coated with matte medium.  I think they will hold OK.

 

 

Getting the split thimble onto the shackle was tough.

Maury

[Maury S]

I can't believe it's been a week since the last post... not much done.  Bowsprit guys seizing redone and tightened up a bit.  Booms and gaffs tapered, rounded and sized.  Jaws Cut out and glued in place.  Clappers installed.

I use various sized (15, 20, 25 and 30 pound test) monofilament line as simulated bolts.  A little heat at the end simulates a nut or bolt head.  These have not been trimmed yet.

Maury

[Maury S]

The fore and main sheet wyes are made.  They fit on to the booms and the sheet tackles hook on to the loop part.  I've not blackened them yet so they photograph better.

Maury

[druxey]

Very neatly done, Maury!

[Maury S]

Wyes for the boom ends

Now on to the gaff jaw irons...

Maury

 

 

[Maury S]

The boom and gaff cleats are installed.

Maury

[Maury S]

While trying to pin the small thumb cleats, they all got knocked off.  Back to the drawing board.  I'll use metal wyes instead.  They will hold up under the strain of the rigging.

Maury

[Maury S]

All the work is done on the booms and gaffs (except the parrals, which can't be put on 'til the spars are ready to go onto the masts).

This includes the throat halyard iron work on the gaffs, sheet wyes, peak halyard wyes, bands, cleats, staples and the topsail sheet sheave.

 

 

Maury

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

47 minutes ago, Maury S said:

All the work is done on the booms and gaffs (except the parrals, which can't be put on 'til the spars are ready to go onto the masts).

This includes the throat halyard iron work on the gaffs, sheet wyes, peak halyard wyes, bands, cleats, staples and the topsail sheet sheave.

 

 

Maury

Very nice Maury, inspiring stuff. good luck with further ongoing. Vlad

[druxey]

Very neat metalwork, Maury!

[Maury S]

Chock rails formed and installed on top of main rail.

They are 4.5" high at the bow, and 2" aft, 3.5" thick (per Chappelle).  "Nails" are 20 lb (dia .018") black monofilament line.

Maury

[Maury S]

Misc. items while waiting for Chuck to re-open for more supplies.

TopMast wye

Cleats

 

Windlass instaled

 

Maury

[druxey]

Looking good, Maury!

[mtaylor]

Maury.... Chuck's open.  Go for it.

[Maury S]

Windlass re-done.  Barrels narrowed, spacers removed and warping drums added.

 

The little brass piece laying aft the windlass is a piece for the pawl.  Just laying there.

Maury

 

[Maury S]

Wood Jib horse installed

The "log" is 5" dia.  The larger ring is 8" ID, the smaller 4" ID.  The pins prevent the rings from sliding too far.  Right out of Chapelle's American Fishing Schooners p 502. (as are most of the detailed items).  The wooden horse was used until about 1885. That fore deck is really crowded and I bet dangerous.

Maury

 

 

 

[druxey]

A wooden horse? That's interesting. Could be a real impediment forward! Nice work as usual, Maury.

[Maury S]

I spent most of the day working on blocks.  These are 1/4" doubles from Syren.  They were tumbled in the sander, sheaves cut out a bit.  Then came the stropping.  Hit and miss trials to solder a loop the correct size.  The hooks are from someone Greg Herbert (DVM27) recommended (I forget).  They needed to be opened up a bit to take the wire.  Hook put on, loop soldered and pickled.  Loop slipped over the block, pinched flat along the block sides, squeezed a bit to make the becket.  I'll blacken with liver of sulphur (LOS).

Okay for the first try.

Maury

[Maury S]

A lot of misc. prep work going on.  The stem irons for the bobstay and Jumbostay are installed.  The shackle,  sister hooks. bullseye and chain need to be put on while I can tip the boat over.

The centerboard hoisting chain was installed (pinned) and secured to the deck. 

In preparation for the shrouds being attached to the upper deadeyes, I made a jig (hat tip Ed Tosti) that holds the deadeyes in proper position and distance from the lower deadeyes.  They are lined up with the shrouds from the top and held to the jig with wires.  I'm thinking this will result in a cleaner install than using wire hooks between the deadeyes.  Chapelle states the deadeyes are strung 2' 4' TO 2' 10" bottom of upper to top of lower. 

Also in prep for the shrouds, I built a jig to hold the mast vertical (side to side) while the shrouds are being rigged. 

I routed a 1/4" dado in one of the building board adjustable frames, inserted a scrap piece of 1/4" material that has a half-circle cut out to receive the mast and clamped a piece of rope to keep everything secure.

As in a previous model, I make sure the building board is level and line up the mast to the side of a window frame in the background.  Works for me.

Maury

 

 

 

[druxey]

Shaping up nicely, Maury.