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Reale De France by fmodajr - FINISHED - Corel - Scale 1:60


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Frank,

 

Nice paint work, trim lines and perfect French colors. Looking good

 

that tool would be great for your build - 1st time I've seen this. 

PS: when I enlarged the last shot - it does indeed seem to be "home made"

The two grooves have pencil marks along the edges

 

PS:2  nice museum model

 

http://kativ.eu/files/IvoHobby/Ships/La Reale de France/Model museum/

 

 

Edited by md1400cs

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello!

I have started work on the main deck.

First was to install the forward and stern yokes.

Getting these two pieces right is important, I feel, because all the other deck supports will be positioned and aligned between these two yokes.

 

Trial fit of the fwd yoke

135Reale.thumb.JPG.4a079155c9eac073c6b6bef5838f8662.JPG

 

Trial fit of the stern yoke

136Reale.thumb.JPG.7719bed9551c5bd84b7c72190a43014d.JPG

 

Painted and installed yokes

137Reale.thumb.JPG.d48331498a7799b375f8e1ef03017537.JPG

138Reale.thumb.JPG.6aae321e5a22f1b7d7f0f0f5691ab78f.JPG

 

Next was to make and install the 2 bitts near the bow.

139Reale.thumb.JPG.6131dd62ecbd792e45187ca06a34b69e.JPG

 

The Corel plans show the beam in the photo below just laying on top of the 2 bitts.

This didn't look right to me. I check the plans on the Fleur di Lis (Gerard Delacroix) and it showed that the bitts were stepped into the upper beam. So I left the bitts 2 mm higher (as shown in the photo) and I will later notch that upper beam to accept the bitts

140Reale.thumb.JPG.b64e5d07b8aa3cd8cb4c3f733cc2abd1.JPG

 

Finished Bitts, Painted and Installed.

141Reale.thumb.JPG.387411d05d8fb811a6a25fbc5f39edc9.JPG

142Reale.thumb.JPG.4fb2aa132eafdf1d150b08a06def82eb.JPG

143Reale.thumb.JPG.42bef9ad357320bc0e6008a2b2e4e73c.JPG

144Reale.thumb.JPG.15ce0d71bad0fcf5a75bcab327602201.JPG

 

Thanks for visiting,

Frank

 

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Continuing on,

 

There is a long thin notched plank that lays against the taller plank already installed.

these are the supports for the seats that will be installed later.

I had to file and shift this piece so that the seat notches aligned properly to the upper notches in the taller piece.

145Reale.thumb.JPG.c3ba873e58bfecd448c7f62bd4145bb7.JPG

146Reale.thumb.JPG.36c5db8c54762735233ef7a95e3350d7.JPG

147Reale.thumb.JPG.23e4ead6aa4bec97f1bf7a4bee239ad2.JPG

Han Solo very interested in my work!!

148Reale.thumb.jpeg.73398b50fa197dca59f0a22eb76119d9.jpeg

 

Thanks again for the likes and for visiting,

Frank

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38 minutes ago, Hubac's Historian said:

Interesting build, and very nicely done!  I will follow along, if you don’t mind.

Thank you for your kind comments.

I would love it if you followed along and any suggestions would be most welcome.

I am currently working on the deck hatches and I hope to post my updates early next week!

 

Thanks to everyone for visiting and the "Likes"!!!

 

Frank

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Hello,

 

Before I finish stain the deck, I want to add the tree nails to the joints. Before adding the tree nails, I needed to layout where the hatches would be located, so I decided to go ahead and start work on the hatches.

I noticed some differences in the Corel plans for the "Reale" and the "La Fleur de Lis" plans. The covers for the "Reale" hatches are recessed down in the hatch. On the "Fleur de Lis" plans, the hatch covers are almost flush with the top of the hatch walls and they show lifting rings and a locking bar across the larger hatches. So I decided to try and make the hatches this way, (more detail) but I kept the dimensions (LxWxH) of the Corel plans, so that I won't cause myself any problems later!

 

I re-made the inside spacer blocks higher, (so the hatch cover can sit near the top). I also reduced the length and width by 2 mm (1mm each side). The "Reale" plans call for the hatch sides to be 1 mm thick. I made them 2mm thick instead (stronger to work with) and I milled out a 1mm step at the top.

149Reale.thumb.jpeg.c1dc29b443e775fbc5c2b5ab49194a5e.jpeg

This photo shows the hatch walls with the 1mm milled at the top. I also created a joint step at each corner, instead of making a 45 deg joint that the Corel plans call for.

150Reale.thumb.jpeg.a083e19a5a9631fd65598a060c92c3ed.jpeg

 

I also made the 2 boxes that the main anchor lines go down into. (The line goes thru the hole into the deck.)

151Reale.thumb.jpg.8446ab5d8611d0846a5b5e9eb00a1c81.jpg

 

The hatch walls assembled around the filler block

152Reale.thumb.jpeg.2157ca19c4567c0c6e8f599ba91f8817.jpeg

 

Hole drilled into deck, where the anchor line will go into.

153Reale.thumb.jpeg.12b013d8205952500601240088b49139.jpeg

 

Another minor complication. The deck is not flat, but pitches from both the bow and stern towards the center and down from the center to the edge (camber), so I had to grind the bottom of the hatches to fit properly

154Reale.thumb.jpeg.5e43d09bd96d63f72732e720e00c7c81.jpeg

155Reale.thumb.jpeg.d22f6c9dca3b221e8419995037410748.jpeg

 

An assembled hatch, with 1mm step milled out, ready for the hatch cover.

156Reale.thumb.jpeg.76f9a9fead8ff5d12d4983ae5fe17927.jpeg

 

Painted hatches and test fitted to the deck

157Reale.thumb.jpeg.f8eab5487b87460603ac186a9790891b.jpeg

158Reale.thumb.jpg.ac98f38ba315f1df9baead10162689cf.jpg

 

Now I will begin to finish the hatches by making the top covers, staining the covers, and adding some hardware.

 

Thanks for stopping by,

 

Frank

 

Edited by fmodajr
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Frank,

 

Looking very good. Paint work is top notch as well.

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

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Hello,

 

Continuing on, I finished the hatches.

Here are some photos.

 

First I cut up some more of the Eastern White Pine I used for the deck.

159Reale.thumb.jpeg.aabf57d0625ad5b256aa74ef4af44456.jpeg

I fit them and glued them to the top of the hatches from the previous post.

(remember, I used the hatch plans from the Fleur De Lis as a reference, not the Corel plans)

160Reale.thumb.jpeg.fbe3e31f75d2be0ca1af2f9f70534fdd.jpeg

 

Next, I pre-drilled some holes to accept the tree nails.

161Reale.thumb.jpeg.1dce835ee167881e03461ed36252ba84.jpeg

 

In my previous build log, Vasa, I talked about a tree nail making cutter that I have. I have three cutters for a .026 dia, a .035 dia, and one for a .047 dia tree nail. I used the smallest one I had, the .026 dia or  .66MM.

Here is a photo of the cutter. The company that made these is out of business.

162Reale.thumb.jpeg.4c450854e3784b74a43409e1cb7c3b22.jpeg

 

The cutter is attached to a brass extension tube to allow the wood to pass thru the cutter. The brass piece is screwed onto the Dremel drill. 

This photo shows a cover on the cutter, so that when I pass the wood thru, I won't cut my fingers!!

163Reale.thumb.jpeg.20086baec2df4d6162388460dcbe0d8a.jpeg

 

I start by cutting small pieces of wood (.035 by .035) and feed into the cutter to produce the tree nail.

164Reale.thumb.jpeg.477aac7d2b1c1266983afbeebab6670d.jpeg

 

I press the tree nail into the pre-drilled hole with some glue, cut and sand down.

165Reale.thumb.jpeg.f30cd9dff2ba50a1200acf849d41f7a3.jpeg

 

 

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 I then stained the hatch covers with a light Oak stain.

 

166Reale.thumb.jpeg.e467c11ea6baa26ee5640a0d95917524.jpeg

 

Added lifting bolts.

167Reale.thumb.jpeg.cdb8382c4f57d829d9c159f8b853f0be.jpeg

 

On the larger hatches, I added a bar to lock the covers, per the Fleur De Lis plans.

168Reale.thumb.jpeg.b281a043dc75c26082e2d5b3df761981.jpeg

 

In this photo, I show the round "handle" to the left of the bar, that the bar slides under.

169Reale.thumb.jpeg.833e61e6dc060a065775427161501609.jpeg

 

To the right side, the bar bends down 90 deg. and I created a eyelet and locking pin.

170Reale.thumb.jpeg.55d405343571097c31fad3b193bd2310.jpeg

 

The finished hatches dry fitted to the deck

171Reale.thumb.jpeg.28eafc0e42840b39fcbcc9aaaf64c447.jpeg

 

Now I can turn my attention back to finish tree nailing the deck and applying a stain.

 

Thanks for visiting!

 

Frank

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Frank,

 

Those hatches sure raise the bar - Nice work.

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello,

I lost a week due to a bout of the flu. Seems to be going around up here in the Northeast!

 

Anyway, I was able to make more progress on my model.

I added some tree nails to the deck. I decided not to go crazy in adding them. 90% of the tree nails will not be visible due to all the upper deck fittings and platforms blocking the view.

I added some at the joint areas, around the hatches, and around some other fittings that will be added later.

I used the same tool I used on the hatches in a previous post.

 

The cutter

172Reale.thumb.jpeg.59c8cc3f31099baa4409631d31e1cc7e.jpeg

Gluing the tree nails after pre-drilling

173Reale.thumb.jpg.3e1ce60e75527de0076475a6ee298869.jpg

 

Tree nails after some sanding

174Reale.thumb.jpeg.eb89832b1f61b63df0ce4ce929cf3fd4.jpeg

176Reale.thumb.jpeg.b2345143240a0b44d8447e7304882df6.jpeg

 

Added some tree nails around fittings that will be added later

175Reale.thumb.jpeg.0487c9078945582342f3abf518b2e007.jpeg

 

After finishing the nails, I stained the deck with 2 coats of light oak stain, followed by a satin polyurethane sealer

177Reale.thumb.jpeg.17c5e870266be962d2884fe55bd0c9a2.jpeg

178Reale.thumb.jpeg.54af976138a82a921b606272b04440a3.jpeg

179Reale.thumb.jpeg.f471ec80178f9965ec7c26234c7aa3ff.jpeg

 

Attached the hatches (made earlier) to the deck

180Reale.thumb.jpeg.b9e2ac160ed0e410881641424cd1f3ce.jpeg

 

My next step is long process of cutting, shaping, and fitting all the upper platform supports that will fit into the slots on the deck. (70 pieces on each side, each a little different from each other)

 

181Reale.thumb.jpeg.8d896369d1294614d4b898beb584fb97.jpeg

 

Thanks for the "Likes" and for visiting,

 

Frank


 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

 

I have started to make the upper deck supports for the Reale. There are 70 supports on each side of the model. (140 pieces total). 

So, in order to keep my sanity :) I decided to work only on the right side of the model for now. (70 pieces).

 

I cutout the patterns from the plans and glued them onto the board. Then I cut and shaped them using a saw, disk sander, oscillating sander and table saw.

 

182Reale.thumb.jpeg.2f9d82076b3ae691fb867a71d7f632b6.jpeg

 

183Reale.thumb.jpeg.504b50ba4a8d5aafe8aeb2d841802dd5.jpeg

 

184Reale.thumb.jpeg.340872432bb32e67d99f23a13ddf6173.jpeg

 

Here are the 70 pieces made for the starboard side of the model.

 

185Reale.thumb.jpeg.c22191105a33acc30e261fc637a68973.jpeg

 

After the removal of the pattern, glue, and final sanding

 

186Reale.thumb.jpeg.c3a736003e762aeb37acf8b2e68c0e72.jpeg

 

I ran into a problem right away. The slots on the fwd support (shown here) and the rear support on the stern were both too far from the centerline of the model (by about 2mm). So I had to file down the end slots to the correct distance.

 

187Reale.thumb.jpeg.8eaec1a379bb52782ef5141eee7c384a.jpeg

 

This photo shows the the beam running from the stern to the bow at the correct distance from the center line of the model

188Reale.thumb.jpeg.a4336f10ee1c3514be30ede4dfbf52ba.jpeg

 

I was having a hard time trying to decide where to begin fitting the slots, from the front to back or from the stern to the front, so I figured it would be a good idea to look at the plan directions :) 

The plan instructions state the best way would be to start with the center supports and then work my way towards the stern and the bow at the same time. By installing the center supports first, the curve of the beam would be set, making it easier to fit the other pieces.

 

The center supports glued to the deck (I painted half of the supports, for now,
before installing, saving me the time of having to mask the deck)

 

189Reale.thumb.jpeg.ff5e766608f44031df130ca1b33036d4.jpeg

 

View from the top

 

190Reale.thumb.jpeg.912855e8d288c3b2f5e790089bf9daca.jpeg

 

In this photo, the curve of the beam, that is supposed to be following the curve of the deck, can start to be seen

 

191Reale.thumb.JPG.9a1964845e26aa16f5b41693a0e2b8fa.JPG

 

I will slowly continue to do the trial fit, paint, and install of the other supports, working my way towards the bow and stern.

 

Thanks for visiting,

 

Frank

 

 

 

Edited by fmodajr
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Hello Franco,

you are continuing very well, the 70 pieces you are making are called in the Venetian dialect "baccalari" their shape resembles the wing of the seagull, they were fixed on the blanket in correspondence of the beams, (precisely alternating a beam yes and one no) they served for support the "posticcio" the beam on which there were the oarlocks oars,

follow the "Fleur de Lis" monograph which is much more precise and detailed than Corel's drawings

so keep it going well !!!

Fabio

 

 

Lupo nero

_______________________________________

finished models  Carrack Santa Maria by luponero - scale 1/50 - diagrams of Adametz   

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19739-carrack-santa-maria-by-luponero-scale-150-diagrams-of-adametz-finished/

models under construction Athenian triere of the 5th century B.C  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25956-athenian-triere-of-the-5th-century-bc/ 

 

  San Giovanni Battista 1598 by luponero - Medicean galleon  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25930-san-giovanni-battista-1598-by-luponero-medicean-galleon/                                           

 

 

                       

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22 hours ago, luponero said:

Hello Franco,

you are continuing very well, the 70 pieces you are making are called in the Venetian dialect "baccalari" their shape resembles the wing of the seagull, they were fixed on the blanket in correspondence of the beams, (precisely alternating a beam yes and one no) they served for support the "posticcio" the beam on which there were the oarlocks oars,

follow the "Fleur de Lis" monograph which is much more precise and detailed than Corel's drawings

so keep it going well !!!

Fabio

 

 

Hello Fabio!

 

Good to hear from you!

Thank you for your kind post.

Good to know that those supports are called "baccalari" and what their purpose is.

Right now I have a few other choice words for these supports, but I better not say them here :)

I am plodding along getting them installed.

I will be posting my progress later today.

 

Thanks for visiting!!

 

Frank

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Thank you all for the "likes" and for checking in!!

 

I've been slowly working thru installing the upper deck supports, or as Fabio calls them "baccalari".

This section of the built has been going very slowly and has been harder than I thought it would be.

I have to make sure the supports are perpendicular to the center line of the model. At the same time I have to adjust each support to fit the camber of the deck, bow to stern, and also middle to outside edge. Lastly I also have to make sure the slots for the middle beam in the photo below are in line. After I trial fit for all of the above, I then paint a couple of coats of the red on the parts of the support near the deck (so I won't have to mask off the deck), wait until it dries and then glue in place.

I'm lucky to do 4 supports in an evening of work.

 

Making sure the supports are square (perpendicular) to the center line

192Reale.thumb.jpeg.49b629273aebe630c66977e0bd3a87ba.jpeg

 

Making sure the beam in the middle of the supports fit into the slots and also up against the end beam.

193Reale.thumb.jpeg.c7498480fdb69ddf0b1b29c26f10da7b.jpeg

 

One of the problems I'm working thru is it seems that the stern Yoke (see arrow) slot for the end beam is about 2mm (.080) too high. I don't understand why, so for now, I lowered the slot and as I work towards the stern with the supports, I can always add a thin piece of wood if I went too low.

194Reale.thumb.jpeg.baa0c9d87cdd74e36a2f19ec8860cf38.jpeg

 

Photos of supports I've finish so far. When I'm done, I will finish painting them and clean everything up

 

195Reale.thumb.jpeg.1545ff377740a516f224d715b03f7682.jpeg

 

196Reale.thumb.jpeg.2a002d1ce309ddf8fe562cfb77962df7.jpeg

 

A close-up view of the middle beam and end beam I'm trying to keep in line

197Reale.thumb.jpeg.82960e0e55aaf109a461218557b21f34.jpeg

 

That's where I am at for now!

I will be taking a week or so off from the build, in order to help my wife with some spring projects and to give myself a little break from these supports. (When I'm done with the right side, I have to go and start all over for the left side!!)

 

Thanks again for visiting,

 

Frank 

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Hi,

Your craftsmanship and attention to detail is just phenomenal!!, It's a shame there are not more active builds on this beautiful Galley. I'm currently building Heller's version of this ship, so I'll be following your build with interest!.

Best regards,

Michael D.

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8 hours ago, safemaster said:

Hi,

Your craftsmanship and attention to detail is just phenomenal!!, It's a shame there are not more active builds on this beautiful Galley. I'm currently building Heller's version of this ship, so I'll be following your build with interest!.

Best regards,

Michael D.

Thank you for your comments and for checking out this log.

I agree that it must have been a beautiful galley. Hopefully I can do it justice! :)

 

Do you have a log or photos of your Heller build?

 

Thanks,

Frank

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello,

 

After taking a couple of weeks off for other matters, I was finally able to get back to the model and finish the right (starboard) side of the supports.

 

In previous posts I mentioned that I had to lower the height of the stern yoke.

Well, I lowered it too far!

I had to put a temporary shim of about 1MM under the beam in order to properly finish installing the supports and have the correct curve of the beam.

 

See this photo with the arrow on the stern yoke

198Reale.thumb.jpeg.9f7796088c619c3a4e9f8984fcc86876.jpeg

all the supports are installed

199Reale.thumb.jpeg.fe5618239f154cf0952cba2eb6c6881c.jpeg

200Reale.thumb.jpeg.133002bc38d8f05fd837573317f2ec71.jpeg

 

Now I finished cleaning up and painted the ends of the supports and did some touch up.

201Reale.thumb.jpeg.d7536155921c8e266db04f0bcdba8e54.jpeg

On this photo below, I show the green arrow pointing to the stern yoke.

I added filler wood and raised up the height of the slot (made the depth of the slot smaller) and then sanded and repainted

202Reale.thumb.jpeg.87a9dae21fe21aa2180e317c42446b64.jpeg

203Reale.thumb.jpeg.29fe7ef86e1f9af364570590033d92f5.jpeg

 

So now I will start repeating the whole process of making the supports and installing them on the left (port) side.

Hopefully, I learned a few things and I will have less issues.

 

Thanks for visiting and for the likes!!

 

Frank

 

 

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Looks really good, I like it.

Joachim

My new Book in ENGLISH and GERMAN available:

"The colour blue in historic shipbuilding"

http://www.modellbau-muellerschoen.de/buch-en.htm

 

Current build   Amerigo Vespucci    http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/836-amerigo-vespucci-by-schiffebastler-mantua-model-scale-184-italien-sail-training-ship-build-1931/

See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History:

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