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Professional Building Slip - Hobbyzone


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Professional Building Slip
Hobbyzone

Catalogue # HZ-PSM1
Available from Hobbyzone for £50.00

 

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We recently took a look at Hobbyzone's Small Building Slip, catering to hull lengths of an average of 600mm to 800mm maximum, but if you want something for larger hulls and with even more flexibility, then today, we take a look at the Professional Building Slip. Hobbyzone has asked me to build this as an assembly guide for them, to help to negate any incorrect assembly which has found its way into some completed slips, and they also intend to link this guide for general reference. Some errors that customers have made pertain to parts orientation, so with this guide, we hope to show you how to successfully complete this mini-project.

 

First of all, the Professional Building Slip caters to hulls up to 100cm in length, so will obviously take in many of the larger kits in our hobby, plus those impressive POF scratch builds we aspire to. This product also varies from its smaller cousin by the ability to be able to rotate a fixed hull through 360°. Of course, the slip can be used for everything from laying the keel/false keel, through to erecting the formers/bulkheads, and then to simply hold and rotate a semi-assembled hull whilst you plank and even fit out the hull at advanced stages of assembly, as well as act as a simple cradle. The completed unit has a length of 100cm, a width of 25cm and will take a keel of out to 7mm in thickness.

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Packed into a card box, this HEAVY box has all parts within protected by many layers of bubblewrap. Construction is from MDF, with some parts being faced in plastic and engraved with the CNC router for measurements etc. A hefty hardware bag is also included. All you will need to assemble the Professional Building Slip is:

 

  • Wood glue
  • Craft knife
  • Clamps

 

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Instructions are provided on a single sheet of paper, along with an amendment slip stating the use for some included nails. We'll mention this later in the build. 

 

 

 

 

CONSTRUCTING THE PROFESSIONAL BUILDING SLIP

 

1. Before we can start to assemble this project, all parts need to be released from the CNC-routed sheets. A couple of shallow tags are all that connect the parts to their sheets, and these can simply be cut through with a regular craft knife.

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2. Once all parts are released, remove any traces of the MDF tags that held them onto the frames. A craft knife is all that is required for this.

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3. I now construct the guide bars that sit either side of the slip, using Titebond III glue to secure. Please note the orientation of the vertical parts, and the hex nut head position. These items are mirrored. 

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4. Each of these guide bars will hold a clamp that will grip the various formers/bulkheads of your model. To begin their construction, I glue the following items together.

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5. When these had set, I sat them on top of each other. DO NOT GLUE!

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6. NOW, I may glue the other halves of the clamps into place. Sitting the two sections together merely ensures that the clamp faces are parallel to each other...nothing more.

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7. With everything fully dry, the clamps are fitted to the guide bars that I previously made, using the nuts, bolts and washers in the hardware pack. Again, not the orientation of the clamps in the guide bars, and that their positions are mirrored.

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8. Now I will construct the keel clamp holders that secure to the vertical platforms at each side of the Professional Building Slip. Here, we just push the two nuts firmly into position on the backplates.

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9. Using wood glue, attach the keel clamp holder faces to the backplates. Please note the orientation with regard to the hex-head positions, and ensure that everything is square.

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10. Now we can construct the keel clamps, in exactly the same way that we made them for the guide bars in the earlier stages. Firstly, glue the parts you see together, using wood glue.

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11. Glue the opposite side to the two clamps, and use a bolt to ensure that the holes are aligned. Remember, these two keel clamps in the photo are only sat on top of each other to ensure that the jaws are equidistant. Do not glue them together, of course!

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12. When all parts are set, fit the keel clamps to the clamp holders, using the nuts, bolts and washers. Please note that the positions of the bolts can be changed to suit the model you are building.

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13. Each of the keel clamps we have just built, is secured to a moveable guide that sit at either side of the Professional Building Slip. To build the guides, I first glue the two supports in position on each of the guide faces.

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14. Now, NOTING ORIENTATION of the baseplate, each in turn is glued to the vertical face and left to thoroughly set. 

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15. Glue the feet to the underside of each of the moveable guides.

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16.  Using the supplied nuts and bolts, fasten the keep clamps to the moveable guides.

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17. We can now build the vertical face which helps us to ensure the model's bulkheads and frames are vertical and even in height on both sides. Firstly, glue the supports to the vertical face.

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18. Now glue the feet.

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19. At this point, I decide to glue the parts together for the guide which slides up and down this vertical plate.

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20. Now I can bring this guide together with the main assembly and fit it with the nut and bolt, so it may be adjusted. I also glue the main white face to the vertical guide plate.

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21. You need to clear some workbench space now as we start to assemble the baseboard. Start by pushing the nuts into the hex-head shaped holes.

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22. Turn over the baseboard so the nuts are UNDERNEATH, and then apply glue to the top side. Fit the white plastic-faced panel onto this and clamp together until FULLY SET!

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23. Un-clamp the glued boards and flip it over so the white face in on the bottom. Now, sit the remaining board on top of this, with the screw head indents facing upwards. Using the supplied screws, fit the board into position.

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24.Using the supplied bolts and washers, fit the various assemblies to the baseboard, as thus. REMEMBER that the small edge clamps  that you see fastened to the horizontal keel clamp halves are only PRESSED into position and they are NOT glued. This allows them to be repositioned to accommodate the positions of the frames/bulkheads of your model.

 

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*******NOTE*******
A small number of nails are in included in the pack and there is an amendment sheet to indicate their use. These can be driven through the back end of the various clamps to strengthen them. Remember that these parts will bend as you tighten them, but for me, I would prefer to mostly use thin strips of packing if the keel and bulkheads are significantly thinner than the clamps, as this will remove most of the stress from them.

 

That's it...your Professional Building Slip is COMPLETE! 

Here are some photos showing its use.

 

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My sincere thanks to Hobbyzone for sending this out for review on Model Ship World. To purchase, click the link at the top of the article.

 

 

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I actually have a Comment on the instructions @James H, regarding steps 7, 12 and 20.

 

I have placed the Nuts in the Hex-Holes same as in step 8, this way it seems easier to remove the screw if repositioning of the clamp is needed - perhaps for the holders from step 7 and 20 it is not that important, as you would only unscrew them a bit to change the angle/position but in case of the front and back holder (step 12) i would rather suggest to place the nuts in the cutouts - this screw will be more often taken out and you might damage the socket if you do it a few times.

 

Also you can see on this pictures, that's how Wojciech has it on his site:

http://www.hobbyzone.pl/data/gallery/256_600x600.jpg

http://www.hobbyzone.pl/data/gallery/253_600x600.jpg

Jacek

 

Current Build: HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models 1/64 

On Hold/Parallel: Lady Nelson - Amati/Victory Models 1/64

 

 

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9 minutes ago, Jasseji said:

I actually have a Comment on the instructions @James H, regarding steps 7, 12 and 20.

 

I have placed the Nuts in the Hex-Holes same as in step 8, this way it seems easier to remove the screw if repositioning of the clamp is needed - perhaps for the holders from step 7 and 20 it is not that important, as you would only unscrew them a bit to change the angle/position but in case of the front and back holder (step 12) i would rather suggest to place the nuts in the cutouts - this screw will be more often taken out and you might damage the socket if you do it a few times.

 

Also you can see on this pictures, that's how Wojciech has it on his site:

http://www.hobbyzone.pl/data/gallery/256_600x600.jpg

http://www.hobbyzone.pl/data/gallery/253_600x600.jpg

 

Thanks for that. Depending on application, you could well be right. This is a pretty flexible system and the hardware can be changed around to accommodate the model. It's easy enough to remove and rotate these parts, thankfully. I also find it easier to drive the bolt from the socket, instead of the nuts.

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5 minutes ago, James H said:

 

Thanks for that. Depending on application, you could well be right. This is a pretty flexible system and the hardware can be changed around to accommodate the model. It's easy enough to remove and rotate these parts, thankfully. I also find it easier to drive the bolt from the socket, instead of the nuts.

indeed, but i have my doubts how often i can do that before the socket is damaged, you dont need to take out the nut (only buy more nuts) ;)

 

Anyway, i am looking now to replace all the screws with butterfly-screws ;)

Jacek

 

Current Build: HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models 1/64 

On Hold/Parallel: Lady Nelson - Amati/Victory Models 1/64

 

 

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I've been using mine for a couple of years now. Big enough to easily handle the ME Confederacy. Configuration is very flexible. I've even used some the

parts independent of the base. You won't use all the fixtures all the time. The wing nut idea is the way to go.

Is it better than what works for you right now? Probably not but I think it's pretty handy and have not been tempted to use anything else since I got it.

 

Cheers, Harley 

Cheers, Harley<p 

                     

 

Under Construction:       USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54 1/200 by ILoveKit

Completed:                     F-35A 1/48 by Tamiya

                                        USS Atlanta CL-51 1/350 by Very Fire 

                                    Liberty Ship John W. Brown 1/350 by Trumpeter

                                    HMS Spiraea K-08 1/350 

                                    USS Arizona BB-39 1/200 by Trumpeter/Mk1 Design

                                 HMS Sir Gareth 1/350 by Starling Models

                                  USS Missouri BB-63 1945 1/350 by Joy-Yard, 9/11/21

                                  USS Indianapolis CA-35 1945 1/350 by Trumpeter

                                  USS Kidd DD-661, 1945, 1/350, on The Sullivans kit by Trumpeter

                                  USS Alaska CB-1, 1/350, Hobby Boss, Circa 2/1945

                          Brig Syren 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood

Started,On Hold:     Frigate Confederacy 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood

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10 hours ago, tigerdvr said:

I've been using mine for a couple of years now. Big enough to easily handle the ME Confederacy. Configuration is very flexible. I've even used some the

parts independent of the base. You won't use all the fixtures all the time. The wing nut idea is the way to go.

Is it better than what works for you right now? Probably not but I think it's pretty handy and have not been tempted to use anything else since I got it.

 

Cheers, Harley 

 

I'll be using wing nuts with mine too, so that's a neat idea. It's been a few years since I built a ship, and back in the day I used an Amati Keel Clamper, but that is way to small for my future projects of HMS Vanguard and Revenge. This building slip is perfect for the job.

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Just a question: The slip can hold keel, stern and bulkheads into position. It can even be used to turn the model side-upwards. But it looks as if there is little margin when the stern has not the same thickness as the MDF-piece.  (the clamps in step 6 and 16 look rather rigid to me) Is there any flexibility when your stern is thicker/thinner than the one of the example-model?

 

Jan

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11 minutes ago, amateur said:

Just a question: The slip can hold keel, stern and bulkheads into position. It can even be used to turn the model side-upwards. But it looks as if there is little margin when the stern has not the same thickness as the MDF-piece.  (the clamps in step 6 and 16 look rather rigid to me) Is there any flexibility when your stern is thicker/thinner than the one of the example-model?

 

Jan

There is flexibility there, but I put in my article that I would use shim pieces to pack out the clamps as much as possible.

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You couldn't turn a hull over for planking. If your ship's stem and stern were strong enough you could adjust the fore and aft clamps to work on the deck for instance. I just stick some pieces of firm Styrofoam under the side I want elevated to get a slant as needed.

 

Harley

Cheers, Harley<p 

                     

 

Under Construction:       USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54 1/200 by ILoveKit

Completed:                     F-35A 1/48 by Tamiya

                                        USS Atlanta CL-51 1/350 by Very Fire 

                                    Liberty Ship John W. Brown 1/350 by Trumpeter

                                    HMS Spiraea K-08 1/350 

                                    USS Arizona BB-39 1/200 by Trumpeter/Mk1 Design

                                 HMS Sir Gareth 1/350 by Starling Models

                                  USS Missouri BB-63 1945 1/350 by Joy-Yard, 9/11/21

                                  USS Indianapolis CA-35 1945 1/350 by Trumpeter

                                  USS Kidd DD-661, 1945, 1/350, on The Sullivans kit by Trumpeter

                                  USS Alaska CB-1, 1/350, Hobby Boss, Circa 2/1945

                          Brig Syren 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood

Started,On Hold:     Frigate Confederacy 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood

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  • 1 year later...

I've had my eye on this building slip since I saw this review (really, it is over kill for me but I was concerned that I would "quickly" outgrow the smaller version ), but I live in the US and almost all the locations that I saw for the slip were in Europe and due to the size of the slip shipping costs became something of a non-starter. Recently I emailed hobbyzone to inquire about their shipping costs and they directed me to http://www.hobbyworld-usa.com/. The banner of the website triggered my spidey-sense, so I asked my wife to order it for me instead for a birthday gift (😉). It arrived a few weeks ago and today I finally celebrated my birthday and opened the slip. I still have to put it all together, but I wanted to let anyone in the USA who is interested know where you might find it.

Edited by VTHokiEE
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Just now, VTHokiEE said:

I've had my eye on this building slip since I saw this review (really, it is over kill for me but I was concerned that I would "quickly" outgrow the smaller version ), but I live in the US and almost all the locations that I saw for the slip were in Europe and due to the size of the slip shipping costs became something of a non-starter. Recently I emailed hobbyzone to inquire about their shipping costs and they directed me to http://www.hobbyworld-usa.com/. The banner of the website triggered my spidey-sense, so I asked my wife to order it for me instead for a birthday gift (😉). It arrived a few weeks ago and today I finally celebrated my birthday and opened the slip. I still have to put it all together, but I wanted to let anyone in the USA who is interested know where you might find it.

 

Great stuff!

 

If you want to add to this topic by showing a few photos on how you use it with your model, feel free. 

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1 hour ago, VTHokiEE said:

I've had my eye on this building slip since I saw this review (really, it is over kill for me but I was concerned that I would "quickly" outgrow the smaller version ), but I live in the US and almost all the locations that I saw for the slip were in Europe and due to the size of the slip shipping costs became something of a non-starter. Recently I emailed hobbyzone to inquire about their shipping costs and they directed me to http://www.hobbyworld-usa.com/. The banner of the website triggered my spidey-sense, so I asked my wife to order it for me instead for a birthday gift (😉). It arrived a few weeks ago and today I finally celebrated my birthday and opened the slip. I still have to put it all together, but I wanted to let anyone in the USA who is interested know where you might find it.

I just bought one from there recently also.

Jeff

 

In progress:
Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale

USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76

HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48

HMS Sphinx - Vanguard

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On 1/5/2020 at 1:32 PM, James H said:

 

Great stuff!

 

If you want to add to this topic by showing a few photos on how you use it with your model, feel free. 

Will do once I start using it. 
 

I wanted to let you know that I am really grateful for your directions posted here. I’ve barely begun and I’m 75% certain I would’ve messed up the first step without your warning regarding the hex holes. Thank you!

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Ooops..  Solved my problem.

Edited by Gregory

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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Hey Jeff, or anyone that has actually used this slip - I’m interested but is it accurate? Can I slide the bulkhead upright guide into place and Have complete confidence that everything is square, level, and fair? Or do I have to get out my small square, or my machined blocks and verify that everything is in perfect position? If I have to do that I might as well just square up the bulkhead like I always do and move on.... in other words does this jig stay in alignment as you start using it or does it need to be “trued” every time you move it? Is it really effective or is it just nice to have? Thanks guys....

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15 hours ago, ASAT said:

Hey Jeff, or anyone that has actually used this slip - I’m interested but is it accurate? Can I slide the bulkhead upright guide into place and Have complete confidence that everything is square, level, and fair? Or do I have to get out my small square, or my machined blocks and verify that everything is in perfect position? If I have to do that I might as well just square up the bulkhead like I always do and move on.... in other words does this jig stay in alignment as you start using it or does it need to be “trued” every time you move it? Is it really effective or is it just nice to have? Thanks guys....

I've not assembled mine yet so I don't know for sure. I think there are a few people using here for builds though.

Jeff

 

In progress:
Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale

USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76

HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48

HMS Sphinx - Vanguard

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I decided to give it a shot and ordered one, they’re back ordered! I didn’t find out till the order went through so now I have to wait- two weeks they said..... we’ll see..... they did give me a discount coupon for my next order for the inconvenience though, pretty cool of them!

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I have one and have pics of using it to build the keel and frames in my San Francisco Cross Section thread click the link in my signature below. Dead accurate for frame alignment. Also have a link for all of the Hobby Zone stuff I have built and used.

Edited by Osmosis
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10 minutes ago, Osmosis said:

I have one and have pics of using it to build the keel and frames in my San Francisco Cross Section thread click the link in my signature below. Dead accurate for frame alignment. Also have a link for all of the Hobby Zone stuff I have built and used.

The same thing happened to me when I ordered but it took more like a month and a half.

Jeff

 

In progress:
Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale

USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76

HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48

HMS Sphinx - Vanguard

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I just picked one up online a few days ago from Free Time Hobbies in Blue Ridge, GA.  for $29.99.  Guess I lucked out.

Current build: Armed Virginia Sloop

Previous Builds: , Amati Fifie, Glad Tidings,Bluenose II, Chesapeake Bay Skipjack, Fair American, Danmark, Constitution Cross Section, Bluenose 

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"*******NOTE*******
A small number of nails are in included in the pack and there is an amendment sheet to indicate their use. These can be driven through the back end of the various clamps to strengthen them. Remember that these parts will bend as you tighten them, but for me, I would prefer to mostly use thin strips of packing if the keel and bulkheads are significantly thinner than the clamps, as this will remove most of the stress "

 

Just finished assembly. well thought out and solid. The blog definitely helped quick assembly -about 2.5 hours. Do I understand correctly that you did NOT use the nails?

(delivery from Poland was 1 month from order and cost 46$- not bad considering I often pay 20$ just for delivery of book - by standard post!) Strongly recommend this device. 

current build- Swan ,scratch

on shelf,Rattlesnake, Alert semi scratch,Le Coureur,, Fubbs scratch

completed: nostrum mare,victory(Corel), san felipe, sovereign of the seas, sicilian  cargo boat ,royal yacht caroline, armed pinnace, charles morgan whaler, galilee boat, wappen von hamburg, la reale (Dusek), amerigo vespucci, oneida (semi scratch) diane, great harry-elizabethan galleon (semi scratch), agammemnon, hanna (scratch).19th cent. shipyard diorama (Constructo), picket boat, victory bow section

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On 1/23/2020 at 7:01 AM, Dsmith20639 said:

I just picked one up online a few days ago from Free Time Hobbies in Blue Ridge, GA.  for $29.99.  Guess I lucked out.

Thanks for the heads up on this, so far still on sale for $29.99, but at least that much for shipping.  BUT if I spent another $20 I got free shipping so...   Half-price!   Cant beat that.   I had just reached out to HobbyZone USA about when the back-ordered item might come in and they ignored me.   So...    good for me. 

 

Thanks again!

 

UPDATE:  Free Time Hobbies cancelled my order :(.   I guess they ran out.   Not surprised, at the price they were selling, it was a steal.  

Edited by Justin P.
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  • 3 weeks later...

I just finished assembling mine!

Looking forward to my AL HMS Bounty build using this tool,

Lyle

"The only thing that stays the same is the constant state of change"

 

Completed Builds:

Occre HMS Terror - https://modelshipworld.com/gallery/album/2065-hms-terror-occre/

NRG Half Hull Project - https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23546-half-hull-project-by-lylek1-nrg/

1:130 1847 Harvey - https://modelshipworld.com/gallery/album/2125-1847-baltimore-clipper-harvey-1130-scale/

Scott Miller's Sea of Galilee Boat https://modelshipworld.com/topic/29007-sea-of-galilee-boat-by-se-miller-120-scale-lylek1/

 

In progress:

Artesania Latina HMS Bounty - https://modelshipworld.com/topic/26817-hms-bounty-by-lylek1-artesania-latina-148-scale/

 

Waiting for dry-dock space:

Model Shipways - USS Constitution

Master Korbel - Cannon Jolle 1801

A Scratch build -TBD

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just got mine - 10 days transit! But it was intact with no damage (UPS) Assembling it now.... I would add that a sanding block of some sort should be added to the list of tools required- the knife cleans the parts ok but the nubs need to be sanded flush..... in fact after doing a few nubs I am just using a sanding block with 100 grit on it.... and I am using 3M contact adhesive for the adhering the white laminated piece’s.  just preference for laminating stuff...

Edited by ASAT
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18 hours ago, ASAT said:

Just got mine - 10 days transit! But it was intact with no damage (UPS) Assembling it now.... I would add that a sanding block of some sort should be added to the list of tools required- the knife cleans the parts ok but the nubs need to be sanded flush..... in fact after doing a few nubs I am just using a sanding block with 100 grit on it.... and I am using 3M contact adhesive for the adhering the white laminated piece’s.  just preference for laminating stuff...

 

Old habits die hard with me as I carved away those nubs with a scalpel. I sometimes think I'm still working on plastic models 🤪

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