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USS Independence LCS-2 by CDW - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1:350 - PLASTIC


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3 hours ago, CDW said:

I wonder if the hull is coated with some kind of radar avoidance coating?

I would be willing to bet money on it. May have some optical properties as well.

Edited by lmagna

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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2 hours ago, CDW said:

In time, will likely build that model, too

You mean you haven't started it yet?:D If you do half as well as you did on the Independence then they will make an impressive pair.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Trumpeter-Freedom-LCS1-Littoral-Combat/dp/B005SZ5CIW

 

https://www.hobbylinc.com/trumpeter-uss-freedom-lcs-1-lottoral-combat-ship-plastic-model-military-ship-1:350-scale-4549?source=froogle&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnZXbBRC8ARIsABEYg6CpAf7E4zJ9N12j7MjnsnzQeed6JcFebN9EDLREl4v2iCcSMlGuyv8aAqKpEALw_wcB

 

https://www.amazon.com/Bronco-BNCN5028-Worth-LCS-3-MODEL/dp/B00B7ZD5Q8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_21_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DBTVCJ2CD10VCY43MMSV

 

I agree, I don't really know which design I like better, but the Freedom does look impressive underway. At 47 knots though I suspect it is quite the ride.

 

 

 

Edited by lmagna

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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It is the white balance WB setting, change from indoor (tungsten) to Daylight,   in Daylight the tungsten setting creates a blueish cast to the light;  in contrast the Daylight setting will cause a yellowish or orangeish cast when used indoors.

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Just shows you how hard it may be to see her in the early morning ocean/land mist as she closes in on the coast!:D (My imagination runs away sometimes) 

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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5 hours ago, Jack12477 said:

It is the white balance WB setting, change from indoor (tungsten) to Daylight,   in Daylight the tungsten setting creates a blueish cast to the light;  in contrast the Daylight setting will cause a yellowish or orangeish cast when used indoors.

On the top left hand side of my camera (looking at it from the back of the camera) there is a wheel with a mark of "WB" on it, along with other marks. Is that the mark that should be set to WB? It was set on a different mark.

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CDW - Could be? But on my cameras, it's on the SET FUNCTION button (or FUNC SET).  On yours trying selecting it and see if you get a screen with various LIGHTING settings - you are probably on AWB (Automatic White Balance) which sometimes doesn't work well when you switch between indoor and outdoor especially when you take the camera off of AUTO mode and select one of the other modes, e.g. AV (Aperature Preferred/Priority), TV (Shutter Preferred) or P (Programmed), etc. On mine when I take it off of AUTO, I manually select the Lighting mode (WB).  I'm using a Canon PowerShot SX130.

 

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42 minutes ago, CDW said:

On the top left hand side of my camera (looking at it from the back of the camera) there is a wheel with a mark of "WB" on it, along with other marks. Is that the mark that should be set to WB? It was set on a different mark.

Yes mate  - on the wheel marked WB you should be able to set it to WB  then another menu should show or you select,  in that there should be a menu of Auto, Tungsten, Daylight, Cloudy, Shade, Fluorescent,    Auto is normaly ok for most things except strong internal lighting from strip lights.

 

Hope this helps.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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  • 4 weeks later...

she's a really sweet looking model............nicely done  ;) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Great job CDW

Have you started the Freedom yet? :huh::stunned::D 

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Excellent work.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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  • 1 month later...

She turned out rather well Mr Bunny

 

I see you've got HMS Daring destroyer on your wish list ... I would have liked to see you build the former namesake, also a Daring class destroyer ...

(you might add Finished to your title... just a suggestion)

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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  • 10 months later...
On 8/31/2018 at 3:37 PM, CDW said:

soon 🙂

CDW, is there any chance that you would be interested in selling this model? My husband worked at Austal in Mobile Alabama and during his employment had the pleasure of working on this ship. I would love to have it for him as a gift. Let me know, my email is caseymoore0715@gmail.com Thank you. 

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Nice build! Great painting. Mind if I ask how did you paint the bridge windows? Did you hand brush them with dark paint and then go back and touch up the frames with haze gray?

Tim

 

Current build: Continental Navy Frigate ALFRED (build log)                      

Past builds:     Steam Tug SEGUIN (build log in the kits 1850-1900 section)       

                         Liberty Ship SS Stephen Hopkins (Gallery & Build Log)

                         USS Basilone (DD-824) (Gallery & Build Log)

                         USS Olympia (Gallery)

                         USS Kirk (FF-1087) (Gallery & Build Log)

 

 

                        

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On 9/13/2019 at 6:48 PM, CaseyMoore0715 said:

CDW, is there any chance that you would be interested in selling this model? My husband worked at Austal in Mobile Alabama and during his employment had the pleasure of working on this ship. I would love to have it for him as a gift. Let me know, my email is caseymoore0715@gmail.com Thank you. 

I replied to your query via email.

Thanks

CDW

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Craig,

 

1st class on the build. Mobile is one of the cities that build the ships at Austal. They turn the things out on an assembly line not quite as fast as Ford and the model T but pretty quick. Went to a couple of launchings.

John Allen

 

Current builds HMS Victory-Mamoli

On deck

USS Tecumseh, CSS Hunley scratch build, Double hull Polynesian canoe (Holakea) scratch build

 

Finished

Waka Taua Maori War Canoe, Armed Launch-Panart, Diligence English Revenue Cutter-Marine  Model Co. 


 

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4 minutes ago, John Allen said:

Craig,

 

1st class on the build. Mobile is one of the cities that build the ships at Austal. They turn the things out on an assembly line not quite as fast as Ford and the model T but pretty quick. Went to a couple of launchings.

My son in law says they built one of these LCS ships in New Hampshire as well.

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I have a friend who retired from the Portsmouth Naval shipyard......if I see him,  I'll ask about that.   should be an interesting discussion  ;)   I didn't notice it,  but you finished it on my birthday ;)   kinda special.

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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  • 2 months later...

Yep 

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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  • 6 months later...

Dear CDW,

Hello.  I created an account on this forum, solely so I could log on and thank you for creating this thread.

Having recently returned to modelling, I intend to build a catalogue of models of ships I have "worked on" and LCS-2 will be my first.  Your kind attention in detailing each step and giving small tips, including your various frustrations and successes has been a really useful resource for where I can locate certain parts and adopt good technique.  In particular, your attention to detailing the aluminium (shall we say "ageing"?) process on the hull is, rather fantastic.  Many others have incorrectly added a "rust" effect.

 

May I ask - did you prime this model prior to painting?  Rattle can?  And is the Valejo air paint you used an acrylic base?

 

BTW - As a former keen photographer, I'm guessing that you tried to take those photos outdoors within a hot and slightly humid environment, having rested the camera indoors, within an air conditioned environment.  Assuming this is correct (and I apologise in advance for assuming) you should be aware that camera lenses do not like being dragged from cold / conditioned to hot and more humid.  It is best to leave the camera in a bag (shut) outdoors for 10 minutes, ajar for 10 minutes, then open for 10 minutes and then cleaning the lens (just in case) with a lens cloth, before lining up your shots.

Many thanks again, P_A

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  • The title was changed to USS Independence LCS-2 by CDW - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1:350 - PLASTIC

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