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USS Independence LCS-2 by CDW - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1:350


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2 hours ago, CDW said:

In time, will likely build that model, too

You mean you haven't started it yet?:D If you do half as well as you did on the Independence then they will make an impressive pair.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Trumpeter-Freedom-LCS1-Littoral-Combat/dp/B005SZ5CIW

 

https://www.hobbylinc.com/trumpeter-uss-freedom-lcs-1-lottoral-combat-ship-plastic-model-military-ship-1:350-scale-4549?source=froogle&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnZXbBRC8ARIsABEYg6CpAf7E4zJ9N12j7MjnsnzQeed6JcFebN9EDLREl4v2iCcSMlGuyv8aAqKpEALw_wcB

 

https://www.amazon.com/Bronco-BNCN5028-Worth-LCS-3-MODEL/dp/B00B7ZD5Q8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_21_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DBTVCJ2CD10VCY43MMSV

 

I agree, I don't really know which design I like better, but the Freedom does look impressive underway. At 47 knots though I suspect it is quite the ride.

 

 

 

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I don't know what kind of Jedi mind tricks my camera is playing on me today. Apparently it doesn't like the settings for outdoor pictures, but I have no idea what settings to change unless I read the owner's manual. I guess I better start reading the manual, but no time for that now. Got to go to a birthday party.

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5 hours ago, Jack12477 said:

It is the white balance WB setting, change from indoor (tungsten) to Daylight,   in Daylight the tungsten setting creates a blueish cast to the light;  in contrast the Daylight setting will cause a yellowish or orangeish cast when used indoors.

On the top left hand side of my camera (looking at it from the back of the camera) there is a wheel with a mark of "WB" on it, along with other marks. Is that the mark that should be set to WB? It was set on a different mark.

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CDW - Could be? But on my cameras, it's on the SET FUNCTION button (or FUNC SET).  On yours trying selecting it and see if you get a screen with various LIGHTING settings - you are probably on AWB (Automatic White Balance) which sometimes doesn't work well when you switch between indoor and outdoor especially when you take the camera off of AUTO mode and select one of the other modes, e.g. AV (Aperature Preferred/Priority), TV (Shutter Preferred) or P (Programmed), etc. On mine when I take it off of AUTO, I manually select the Lighting mode (WB).  I'm using a Canon PowerShot SX130.

 

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42 minutes ago, CDW said:

On the top left hand side of my camera (looking at it from the back of the camera) there is a wheel with a mark of "WB" on it, along with other marks. Is that the mark that should be set to WB? It was set on a different mark.

Yes mate  - on the wheel marked WB you should be able to set it to WB  then another menu should show or you select,  in that there should be a menu of Auto, Tungsten, Daylight, Cloudy, Shade, Fluorescent,    Auto is normaly ok for most things except strong internal lighting from strip lights.

 

Hope this helps.

 

OC.

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On 8/31/2018 at 3:37 PM, CDW said:

soon 🙂

CDW, is there any chance that you would be interested in selling this model? My husband worked at Austal in Mobile Alabama and during his employment had the pleasure of working on this ship. I would love to have it for him as a gift. Let me know, my email is caseymoore0715@gmail.com Thank you. 

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On 9/13/2019 at 6:48 PM, CaseyMoore0715 said:

CDW, is there any chance that you would be interested in selling this model? My husband worked at Austal in Mobile Alabama and during his employment had the pleasure of working on this ship. I would love to have it for him as a gift. Let me know, my email is caseymoore0715@gmail.com Thank you. 

I replied to your query via email.

Thanks

CDW

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4 minutes ago, John Allen said:

Craig,

 

1st class on the build. Mobile is one of the cities that build the ships at Austal. They turn the things out on an assembly line not quite as fast as Ford and the model T but pretty quick. Went to a couple of launchings.

My son in law says they built one of these LCS ships in New Hampshire as well.

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Dear CDW,

Hello.  I created an account on this forum, solely so I could log on and thank you for creating this thread.

Having recently returned to modelling, I intend to build a catalogue of models of ships I have "worked on" and LCS-2 will be my first.  Your kind attention in detailing each step and giving small tips, including your various frustrations and successes has been a really useful resource for where I can locate certain parts and adopt good technique.  In particular, your attention to detailing the aluminium (shall we say "ageing"?) process on the hull is, rather fantastic.  Many others have incorrectly added a "rust" effect.

 

May I ask - did you prime this model prior to painting?  Rattle can?  And is the Valejo air paint you used an acrylic base?

 

BTW - As a former keen photographer, I'm guessing that you tried to take those photos outdoors within a hot and slightly humid environment, having rested the camera indoors, within an air conditioned environment.  Assuming this is correct (and I apologise in advance for assuming) you should be aware that camera lenses do not like being dragged from cold / conditioned to hot and more humid.  It is best to leave the camera in a bag (shut) outdoors for 10 minutes, ajar for 10 minutes, then open for 10 minutes and then cleaning the lens (just in case) with a lens cloth, before lining up your shots.

Many thanks again, P_A

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