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USS Constitution by Ozark - Revell - PLASTIC - Scale 1/96


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Ozark - I started out using a strip of cardboard for a cutting mat, but eventually, I agree with Eric that a cutting mat for any crafting or future modeling is a good investment.  I looked at a lot of posts and made a decision to use better quality rope. Like Jim Rogers suggested, I too went with Syren rope and make sure you use some good wax. My 1st kit was in 2011 and I've learned a lot as time has gone by. And yes, one can sometimes get overwhelmed with information.  I am not even close to working with the masts, but a lot of people do suggest using wood for better strength - especially when it comes time for rigging. Another tip that I read and am using is, I replaced my plastic eye bolts with metal ones for the very same reason about breakage. I'm looking forward to watching your progress and don't rush it! :cheers:

Edited by Fright

Robert O

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Ozark,

It may  be heresy here, but I would suggest you check out some of the build threads on finescalemodeler.com ‘s ship forum.  That seems to be the place where builders of plastic sailing ships go.   I’m not suggesting you stop posting here, rather that you’ll find the answers to the specific questions you are raising here already answered.

 

In progress:  

BlueJacket Lobster Smack 1/8 scale (RC)

1/96 Revenue Cutter Harriet Lane RC scratchbuild

 

completed:  

1/144 scale USS Guadalcanal CVE-60 RC scratchbuild

Revell 1/305 USCG 327’ Secretary class cutter

Dumas 1/16 scale USCG Motor Lifeboat 36500 (RC)

Lindberg 1/95 USCG Lightship LV-112 “Nantucket” RC conversion

 

 

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Thanks Fright and Rcboater Bill

 

Well I have some more progress to show. 

Tarbrush, you were right about the Tamya masking tape. It works great and it's easy to apply. 

So now I need to find some mounting pedestals and hardware. I think if I go with the square nut in the bottom of the hull, there is a holder for them molded in the bottom. I can find some pedestals online some where. 

 

Ozark20180923_123231.thumb.jpg.0d027d648c700b8f0731e6b6d2419c4f.jpg  

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Hello everyone

 

I have a quick question about painting. Do you guy's dip the brush into the paint jar, or do you pour some out into a small container, and use it from there?

I have tried it both ways. It seems that when you pour it out, it dries out some and turns thick.. but adding alcohol helps thin it out again.

 

Thank's, Ozark

 

 

Edited by Ozark
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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks Fright and Rcboater Bill

 

Well I have made a little more progress.

 

I painted the bulkworks green, and the lower deck sides white. I think that might be called the ceiling but not sure. that just does not sound right to me. 

Also glued the hull haves together with a square nut captured in the location for them. I just have the bolts in there to center the nut while gluing. 

 

20181020_094900.thumb.jpg.7d52bd15d5e75bc4a093893d83e248e1.jpg

Here I have some of the gun deck painted and about ready to glue them together. 20181020_094758.thumb.jpg.2280387b6b0d666aced7f0f68d3f7905.jpg

Here are the captains quarters pieces painted. I wish I could do more with the pictures on the wall, but I just cannot see that well, to do them.

Thinking about printing out some small pictures and gluing them in place but I only have a black and white laser printer . time will tell.

20181020_095032.thumb.jpg.af9f2195d62489baedac7e301a2951eb.jpg

Here is the stern partly painted. I'm not really happy with the results but it's not too bad when your not looking at it under the mag lamp. Speaking of the mag lamp it is a 1.75 3 diopter, lighted mag lamp. it works ok for a lot of things but I need some thing stronger for the fine detail painting. I still need to touch up the stern, with black and it will look better after that I'm hopping.

20181020_094827.thumb.jpg.7ddc1281de7b4a2a1ce68dd9f25f5b8e.jpg

This is the white coat before the gold coat 

So Here iv'e decided that I need better magnification to be able to get the quality that i'm looking for.  I'm searching on the interwebs for a headset with magnification. So any of you have suggestions on what I should get, and how much magnification do I need. The mag lamp that I'm using is 1.75 so I need something higher than that. Also the higher I go the closer I will have to be to the painting.

I'm thinking about some thing like this https://modelexpo-online.com/DON-DA5-OptiVisor-w-Precision-Ground-Glass-Lens-Plate--Magnifies-2-12-x-8-Focal-Distance--_p_2010.html   Especially now that I have a 20% off coupon.

So what do you use when painting really fine detail?  

20181020_094920.thumb.jpg.7a49690ad7da19750490039d1269090f.jpg

Also I experimented with liquid mask. the kind you brush on and cut out what you want to paint. but it didn't work as I expected. when I cut it, it broke the seal between the surface and the mask on each side of the knife as I cut it . not sure if I was doing something wrong or not. So you guy's use liquid mask with any success?

 

Thanks for all your help and Ideas everyone, Ozark

Edited by Ozark
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13 hours ago, Ozark said:

I think that might be called the ceiling

Whatever you want to call it, your work is looking nice so who cares!

 

I painted the Captain's quarters when I built this kit as a teen. I can't remember what all the pictures were but I do remember that one was a world map. I painted them all, along with the diamond pattern on the deck. But after you put the transom and decks into place it is a little hard to see your work. The same applies to the forward and sternward cannon on the gun deck. After you place the spar deck into place you can no longer even see all of the rigging no matter how hard you try.

 

You might try going down to your local drug store and taking a look at their reading glasses they normally have glasses that range from 1.5 to 3,0X. You can try out what you want and even pick several pairs to suit the different needs in your build. They are normally fairly inexpensive and certainly lighter than the headsets you linked to. If you do pick the headset you at least picked the glass lenses. The ones with the plastic lenses are in my opinion, (For what it's worth) pure junk.   

Edited by lmagna

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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13 hours ago, Ozark said:

I painted the bulkworks green, and the lower deck sides white. I think that might be called the ceiling but not sure

One of these days I am going to learn to look first and then THINK about opening my mouth! 

 

I wrote about the ceiling and overhead and felt like I really knew what I was talking about. STUPID ME! The brain became engaged later, AFTER I had spouted all my stuff and I decided it look it up, after all this is the internet age where any answer is just a few keystrokes away, right? So here is what I came up with in just a few seconds:

Ceiling:

The lining or inboard sheathing covering the frames of a wooden boat. Usually ceiling is light planking or slats covering the frames in cabin areas to provide insulation, deaden sound, reduce condensation and provide a more finished appearance. (Lubbers beware: the ceiling is located along the inboard sides of a ship, never overhead.)

 

Sorry to the people who read my first post and wondered who this fool was. I will be deleting that part of the post to avoid further possible confusion and personal embarrassment.

Edited by lmagna

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Imagna and MikeU48

 

I have been working on the 32 long guns for the gun deck. they sure are a grind. I do not know why I obsessed about the flash but I had to try and get it all removed before painting. I'm really not happy with the quality of the molding, as you can see the carriage wheels were off quite a bit. All this work for something that will be hidden buy the upper deck. Here you can see the offset in the molding.20181030_061831.thumb.jpg.a8ef505e0e97e85e477dc75c4743a92c.jpg

But here I have them ready to remove the paint where the glue will go when I assemble them.

20181104_155759.thumb.jpg.230057b767d036582ccc7981ea2fa198.jpg

I was going to fallow along with Andymech's paint scheme but when I painted some of the cannons Gun metal like he did, It just didn't look right to me. So I went with matt black20181104_103302.thumb.jpg.09b1ec6dd390c80d509817a5aa77a5fe.jpg

Here you can see my attempt at making the gun deck look weathered and used. I turned out ok until I sanded all the way through the paint at the seams, and tried to repaint there. but It will be hidden any way. I will have to do a better job on getting the top deck's top surface flush before sanding.

 

I still need some advice on what kind of high magnification you guy's are using when doing the very fine detail. I'm thinking about getting a 2.5 magnification head set. but the focal length is at 8 inches. I do not see that as a problem but when I need to refill the brush finding the paint lid or paint jar might be the problem, while wearing it. I do have a 1.75 mag lamp that i'm using but this picture shows the results from using it. to try and paint fine detail. here i've painted the white under coat for the gold paint. Just not happy with the results.

20181020_094920.thumb.jpg.976399b1604a9ea6d6a80f0cc8698c0f.jpg

Any way, thanks for all your input.

Ozark 

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Hey Ozark,

I share your frustration with doing detail work on areas of the Connie that will be hidden. I started to paint the interior of the Captain's quarters and gave up as it seemed fruitless to me. The way I look at it is that ever an individual builder wants to do to be satisfied with their build is what they should do.

In so far as the mag headset is concerned,  I found this one that I really like. It gives you great magnification for the tiny details.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DW6FJ6S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

 

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Mornin Ozark,

When I paint small areas I usually have my face fairly close to the mat where I rest the part. I find my hand is steadier when I can rest it on the mat. I usually use the paint lid as my paint source (a tip Lou gave me). I never have to lift the lens to see as I have the paint jar lid close to my part. Hope that helps. I enjoy the mag light immensely. It also has two brightest levels.

Edited by MikeU48
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Ozark - Your Connie is coming along nicely. I found the cannons consumed quite a bit of time getting them ready for painting. I know what you mean about the wheels being slightly off. I used a very fine sanding stick to clean them up. Very repetitious. I wish Revell would make a one piece deck for this kit. For myself, I gave up trying to match the paint at the seams and went with ScaleDecks laser-cut wooden deck. Smooth sailing on your build! 

Robert O

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  • 2 months later...

Thanks Mike And Fright

 

Well its been a while, truthfully I got frustrated over painting the gold scroll work. I just was't able to see it very well using my mag lamp. So I bought one that fits on my head and it was better. here are the results of that

I'm not sure if I really should have painted it white before I did the gold. The close up pictures look worse than when I am looking at it just with my glasses on. So maybe people won't notice the imperfections.

SAM_0268.thumb.JPG.e2c5adead6d562fa0b6259eeca439b5e.JPGSAM_0269.thumb.JPG.25d7d0823a906e8ff25fad1de1c31b81.JPG

 

SAM_0271.thumb.JPG.e38d29d3730b932319dcda46e390301d.JPG

Here I have the captains quarters installed. I tried to print out a tiny picture to put above the seat but the resolution of my printer is not that great. 

any way it was a picture of Rose from the movie Titanic. the picture that Jack sketched of her topless wearing just the necklace. Just couldn't tell what it was with out a magnifier.

SAM_0273.thumb.JPG.8dc601470ed2038d7b7aa5e5ba64fe1d.JPG

 

Here I'm getting ready to add the lower deck cannon doors. I'm using Andy Mech's idea. But I think I will add some wax paper on top of the pencils, to keep from gluing the door to the pencils.  

You can also  see in this pic the cannon doors all made up with the ropes already on.

SAM_0274.thumb.JPG.0612ff35aa70ae4dba3745a58c994611.JPG

 

DO you guy's use bees wax on Syren's rope? because I do not see any fuzz on mine at all. I think it will be fine without.

Also do you glue the end of the rope to keep it from unraveling. I'm in the habit of just touching the end of the rope to the CA glue bottle tip to keep it from unraveling. I just so it to every cut I make. Just wondering what you guy's do to keep it from unraveling. prolly Beeswax.

 

 

Thank's Ozark 

 
 

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Hey Ozark,

Nice to see you back. I'm enjoying the pics of your build and you're doing a great job. That tiny scroll painting drove me crazy and crossed eyed as well even with the mag headset. Anyone who criticizes your work I'd just say..."So show me yours"...lol Keep up the good work.

 

I'd contact Syren about the beeswax for their threads. I have just started rigging blocks on the bowsprit (off the ship) and am using the stock thread that came in the kit for blocks and deadeyes. I have started using a safety pin to open up the holes to make it easier later. When I tie the threads I use CA on the knots because they don't hold that well without it and I don't want them coming loose when I start the actual rigging. I know it's hard sometimes to get a clean cut on the threads with scissors and the beeswax helps get a clean cut. Let us know what Syen says about the beeswax.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The rope is already lightly waxed.  No need to add anymore. Try working the rope without sealing the ends....the rope should not unravel.  It may fray if you play/tease it enough.  But if you just cut with a sharp blade you shouldnt have any issues.  Although applying CA to the end of a line so you can cut it into a sharp point does help get it through the small holes in blocks.

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  • 8 months later...

WOW it's been way too long. I took a small break that turned into a large one. At least I'm back at it. I think it was all the repetitive work on the cannons, and cleaning up the doors for the cannons.

 

Chuck, I think you are right about just cutting the rope nice and neat, and it will work just fine. I find that if I use CA on the ends the rope will not fit thru the small holes.

 

Here I have the doors all installed

SAM_0281.thumb.JPG.c4c2ecd7c0c9082c44e1a52ed90edd6b.JPG
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Here I have the cannons installed. I made a template of where the 4 wheels would sit. Then placed the template on the deck where the cannon will be, and used a dremel tool, to remove the paint from the deck where the wheels are. Worked really well. SAM_0289.thumb.JPG.49b4e0ad69a6979b6ba7ce2bc657d03f.JPGSAM_0286.thumb.JPG.eaf63c3c9436dce76a8dfe4389a578f8.JPGSAM_0288.thumb.JPG.f5e80c89930915d91f1ba6084376a66f.JPGSAM_0287.thumb.JPG.6b4abf167f1f15acbb3029382807861c.JPG

I have some of the rigging done on the cannons. Ill have some pictures soon.

 

It's nice to be back. 

Ozark 

 

 

SAM_0280.JPG

Edited by Ozark
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  • The title was changed to USS Constitution by Ozark - Revell - PLASTIC - Scale 1/96

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