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Le Soleil Royal by john_weiman - Sergal - 1:77 Scale


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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 years later...

It has been several years since I put a halt on my project. I have now started back up on this kit, wanting to finish it. I forgot just how heavy this kit is! I am always viewing posts from time to time envious of seeing all those finished builds so I thought it was time to dedicate the time to finish this project. I had never started a diary from the start of the build since these types of forums were new to me at the time. I will surely do such as I begin to complete this kit, and with some kits in waiting, but for now I want to finish this beautiful kit ( next project either Euromodel's Friedrich Wilhem Zu Pferde, or Sergal's Amerigo Vespucci). Now it is time to work on the masts, and spars. I had purchased separately the sails from Sergal so I will incorporate them into the finished kit.

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  • 5 months later...

Starting to rig the ship. This will be one tedious job. Next photos I hope to post will be of the spars with folded sails. I think having sails brings more life to the ship, but folded. For the rigging lines that are over 1mm diameter I could only find in beige color so I used SAMAN wood stain to color the rigging black. Saman is a water based stain. I soaked the lines in the stain overnight, and then rinsed it in water. I then repeated this and got a good color out of it.5b074a25f3d40_IMG_13501.thumb.JPG.78ab66a8ccaf17d683a4415f6a9338df.JPG 

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  • 4 months later...
1 hour ago, Snoepert said:

It looks absolutely fantastic.

I am wondering how do you keep asteady arm when tying the rat line across.

I actually laid the lines on a jig and tied them on the flat before hanging them onto the vessel.

Not surewhich is the best way.

cheers

the jigs are fine is thats the way you want to go, but when securing to the deadeyes it could create a problem in getting the tension right, or ratlines that are no longer horizontal, i have found the above way gives a decent result, and the only way i know,

The lines on the card, ensure they are straight, and the card also allows the eye to focus on the job, rather than be distracted 

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Dear Kevin,

Snoepert is correct. The white cardboard that you can get at an art supply store helps you focus on the work. It would be far more difficult to work with the background, and you would not be able to gage the accuracy of the lines. Also, working each line on the ship allows you to adjust the tension of the lines, and makes the build more realistic. I found a wonderful tweezer at Walmart for just $5. It does not damage, or risk scarring the lines.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Michael most are from the kit, but the transom was cut out for the window pains, and a thin sheet of clear acrylic was used for the window pains. The back detailing required a lot of extra work in cutting out the windows, and forming the transom. What was great about the fittings was that it is solid bronze so one could do a lot of filing, and bending into shape to fit using heat to soften the bronze.

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Peter, I managed to obtain different color grades in walnut, and used stain to get the final colors. The blue is a mix of Saman water based stains to get the right shade I wanted. I never use paint on wood. The top coat is oil based from Minwax (Natural). Golden Oak, Ebony was used for the hull sides, and mix of Dark Walnut & Provincial & a touch of Mahogany to get the lower hull shade.

Regards, John

Edited by john_weiman
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13 hours ago, john_weiman said:

Peter, I managed to obtain different color grades in walnut, and used stain to get the final colors. The blue is a mix of Saman water based stains to get the right shade I wanted. I never use paint on wood. The top coat is oil based from Minwax (Natural). Golden Oak, Ebony was used for the hull sides, and mix of Dark Walnut & Provincial & a touch of Mahogany to get the lower hull shade.

Regards, John

If you're using stains to avoid the grain obscuration of paint, you might want to try aniline dyes for their much improved clarity over pigment-based stains, and with a kit of the basic primary colors you can make any shade you need. I use alcohol-based so grain isn't raised.

 

And by the way, your ship is stunning :)

 

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Then you'll definitely fall in love with aniline dyes, it's what guitar companies use to dye their guitars because it doesn't obscure the pretty grain of their quilted tops at all. Another thing I like is that although it looks like it penetrates, it doesn't- the color is right there on the surface. So if you dye something and you don't like the output, a couple of minutes with sandpaper and it's all gone and you can try again. If nothing else it saves on test pieces.

 

I generally apply with a rag, wait for 30 seconds or so (with alcohol solvent things move quickly), and then wipe excess, I find you can get some weird surface effects if you just spread and leave it on. Repeat until you get the tone you want. You can even generally go back lighter by wetting the surface again and rubbing it immediately and if you do get some undesired effect it's also solved by rewetting and wiping.

 

Below is a neck radius sander on which I used aniline dye.

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Edited by vossiewulf
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