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Old Collingwood

Black Pearl by Old Collingwood - FINISHED - 1/72 Scale

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Next I decided to tackle the little side project  - the pearls  small shore boat,   this is a kit in itself  and comes all together on a fret  with everything there,  first off  I cut both hull sides away and did a bit of tidy work inside and out to remove a couple of injection marks and to give the inside walls a bit of texture.

Next off I worked on the lower deck fitting - this was aslo worked on a bit then I applied a couple of coats of bluff paint, then after drying with the hairdryer I mixed up a watery mix of dark grey/black  and just brushed it on in a rought fashion  - several light coats with drying between coats, and the final result is a weathered old deck.

 

This is my current situation - here's the pics -

 

OC.

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33 minutes ago, Wallace said:

And how I like that weathered old deck O.C. I find it relaxing sometimes to "step away" from the monotonous and take on something rather different. The mind emerges out of that slightly dulled state and kicks back into life. Nice work sir. 

Thank you wallace,   its turned out better than I thought - but its one of those things with weathering  - just do it in thin layers till you reach what you are happy with.

 

OC.

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2 minutes ago, EJ_L said:

Indeed, strange they may be, but they do look great!

 

Nice start to the boat as well. The weathering looks good and will look even better once the hull is weathered up a bit also.

Thank you sincerley ej,   yep  the rest of the boat is being painted/weathered  black/grey and shaded with buff/white.

 

OC.

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Since thanks for all the likes and replies.

 

More work on the wee boaty  -  I  painted the grey/black all over,  then when dry I highlighted  ontop including the top framework and a slight amount to the bottom deck section,   then I glued the lower deck inplace followed by the top framework.

 

Just a few pics to show this stage.

 

OC,

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Evening all,   the little boaty if finished  - I cut the rest of the fitting from the spru  then cleaned them up and did my normal - painty - weathering thingy bob,  then after fitting the rudder I placed the rest of the fittings to the boat with some small amounts of plastic glue.

 

Here are a few pics including a  couple placed on the deck.

 

OC.

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Evening all,   slight departure  from the work so far  - so I turned my attention to the channels starting with the smallest ones for the mizzen mast,   these are plastic units of good shape,  they have link devices attached then two plastic chain attachment type devices, was glued in place after checking for alignment with holes in the hull  then set aside to set.

 

Here is the one I started - 

 

OC.

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Just to follow  - up,   my idea is to carry on making/painting/weathering the channels and fitting the lower deadeyes, then these will be glued to the hull,  i will then start with the foremast  - glue the lower section in place including the lower masttop, then start on the standing rigging  by fitting the foremast stay to the bowsprit, and fit the bobstay.

Does this sound ok? as it will be my very first mast/rope work I have ever done.:o

 

OC.

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39 minutes ago, pontiachedmark said:

Gidday OC.

She sure is looking good.

If you maintain the same standard with the rigging as you have for the build of the ship I am positive it will be outstanding.

All the best to you and family.

Mark.

Thank you mark  I will try  (I have the admiral keeping a close eye on this one  - as its for her  she is worth it though)  all the best to you and yours also.

 

OC.

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Sounds like a good plan. I typically work from bow to stern with rigging and that seems to be the standard. With the fore stays of the masts leading down to the mast in front, it almost has to go in that order. Bowsprit, foremast fore stay to bowsprit, mainmast fore stay to foremast, mizzen forestay to mainmast. Once I have those in place, I usually install my shrouds before working much on the topmast. The back stays of the top mast lead down to points aft of the shrouds so it is best to have them in place first. Also, the shrouds will lend more stability to the mast for tension.

 

On that note, leave the stays loose until the end. Clamp or tape the leads in place so they do not slip or even use a knot that can be easily undone. Just don't glue them permanently until all of the stays and shrouds are complete. Reason is, as you install more rigging, the masts tend to flex and what was formerly a tight line now has slack or has been pulled off center. By leaving the rigging loose, the final tensions can be adjusted much easier. 

 

If you ever get hung up or need help just ask! :)  

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3 hours ago, EJ_L said:

Sounds like a good plan. I typically work from bow to stern with rigging and that seems to be the standard. With the fore stays of the masts leading down to the mast in front, it almost has to go in that order. Bowsprit, foremast fore stay to bowsprit, mainmast fore stay to foremast, mizzen forestay to mainmast. Once I have those in place, I usually install my shrouds before working much on the topmast. The back stays of the top mast lead down to points aft of the shrouds so it is best to have them in place first. Also, the shrouds will lend more stability to the mast for tension.

 

On that note, leave the stays loose until the end. Clamp or tape the leads in place so they do not slip or even use a knot that can be easily undone. Just don't glue them permanently until all of the stays and shrouds are complete. Reason is, as you install more rigging, the masts tend to flex and what was formerly a tight line now has slack or has been pulled off center. By leaving the rigging loose, the final tensions can be adjusted much easier. 

 

If you ever get hung up or need help just ask! :)  

Thank you so much for your imput ej,  that was kind of my thinking from all the builds I have seen.

 

OC. 

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