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HMS Victory by Wallace - Corel SM 23 - 1:98 Scale

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Wallace:

Thanks for your response & clarification. I believe my kit is older than yours based on the box but it should be close enough that I can use your build as a guide when I start mine (if you don't mind).

 

regards

 

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On 2/24/2019 at 4:35 PM, J T Lombard said:

I can use your build as a guide when I start mine (if you don't mind).

I don't mind at all J. As I have already said, if you have any questions at all I would be glad to help and if I don't have the answer then someone here certainly will. I look forward to seeing your build log sir. 

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On 2/24/2019 at 4:03 PM, ccoyle said:

Mark, just go to the first post and look for the edit button at the bottom. Titles can only be edited via the first post.

Thank you sir. 

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Posted (edited)

Friday, March 01, 2019:

Work Got In the Way

Getting used to being occupied with a steady job on a regular basis is going to take a little time. I am not saying that I am not enjoying the distraction, my body just needs to catch up is all. Getting older really is a bowl of cherries :)

I have made the executive decision to copper plate the hull. There had been questions regarding the era I was going to model my build after and I thought long and hard about the coppering process. The original Vic had plates (yes, I know she didn’t have them straight away but they were there) and so my model will have them too. Once the initial strakes were all fitted and sanded I went ahead and inventoried (and sorted) the next lot of wood for the second layer.

image.png.26951c78ad36653daf2eb8564cdad2fe.png

image.png.78017380636380f1e16650e27ee359be.png

My next task involved marking just where these wales were going to go. I wanted to get the waterline marked and the lower wales shaped and dry fitted. I ran into a small problem regarding the soaking time for the 5x2 pieces of walnut for the raised wales. I had been soaking the basswood for 6 minutes to get it round the bow but that was not long enough for the walnut (plus the obvious fact that it was thicker). I decided to try an 8 minute soak time but found that the strakes were splitting when I bent them. 10 minutes worked OK on some of them but others were just not playing the game. I was given a tip by Paul (thanks again mate!) that I could just use the 5x1 pieces and laminate them. They were easier to handle and so that is the route I am going to go. I will have plenty of them on hand because I will not need them for the lower part of the hull (due to the coppering).

The waterline was marked with my DIY waterline marker and then she was carried out to the woodshop for her first coat of primer. Here she is all masked up waiting to be primed:

image.png.20fa5510ce894121f3b59bc8b8ca61d4.png

And here after the first coat of primer. I started to fill in the very small discrepancies with a plastic wood putty that dries in about 10 minutes if it is not applied too thickly. The good thing about the primer was that it showed up all the tiny dips in the wood:

image.png.334497b366112de1bb40d041a8386925.png

And here she is after 3 coats of primer and sanding with a piece of 320 glass paper:

image.png.b43438abed13170d53e7778eff054e40.png

image.png.5e7dcbba6bfbde05eca1b22dfe43d6b0.png

I had read another post on the forum here about the issue with scaling the copper plates correctly. It would appear that when these plates were added to a ship they were held in place with copper nails (obviously) that were pretty much invisible from a distance. I know that adding the nail holes in a plated model does give it some dimension but, by the same token the holes are usually completely out of scale with the plates. To that end I have decided to use self-adhesive copper slug tape (again, something I read about here while I was doing some research). Now, as to how to apply it to the hull and make it look good……. that ladies and gentleman is a whole different ball game.

 

Once she is fully dry I will be bringing her back into the shipyard to start adding the wale strakes. I will post another update when I have made some progress on that.

 

 

Edited by Wallace
There was a Smiley missing!

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Hi Mark. I believe that a lot of builders on this forum favoures the Amati copper plates. You can order these separately online. They come pre fabricated and ready to use. Just my two cents.

there is a topic on this forum about these plates. 

peter

 

 

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32 minutes ago, Katsumoto said:

there is a topic on this forum about these plates.

Yes, thank you Peter I had read that thread sir. From what I had gathered the Amati plates had the "nail holes" stamped in such a way that they pointed upwards and this meant you had to mount the plate the wrong way round to get it to look right. On top of that the holes are way out of scale for the size of the plate.

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Posted (edited)

I added the nail marks to my Harriet Lane, even though they were out of scale, I just preferred the look compared to blank plates, your Victory is really looking good

Edited by jct

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14 hours ago, jct said:

I just preferred the look compared to blank plates

And that is what is important, it's all down to personal taste. Thanks for dropping by sir. 

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Glad to see you have managed to get some time in the shipyard, Sir. The Vic is looking good, that's a nice smooth clean looking hull. What glue are you going to use for the strakes? I'm happy you found the laminate tip useful, tho I did find/steal it here on this forum 😎.

 

Have you thought of making some sort of jig using sewing pins/needles to make marks on the copper plates, maybe by pressing gently you can give a very slight/tiny impression. Just enough to give the eye something to "catch" rather than a smooth plate.

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1 hour ago, nikbud said:

What glue are you going to use for the strakes?

Well, I have aliphatic resin that I used on the initial strakes and it seems to hold OK. That being said I do want a good bond I can rely on so I have some Gorilla wood glue here as well. I had used it in places where the strakes were stressed, like the bow and stern sections and it performed well. I may just go with it. I actually stuck the first wale on last night using the Gorilla glue. 

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2 hours ago, nikbud said:

Have you thought of making some sort of jig using sewing pins/needles to make marks on the copper plates, maybe by pressing gently you can give a very slight/tiny impression. Just enough to give the eye something to "catch" rather than a smooth plate.

The jury is still out on that mate. 

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Posted (edited)

I used copper tape and a pounce wheel to great effect.  I used masking tape to mark the different bands of plating on the Victory.  

 

With the self adhesive tape, it’s like putting down stickers.  I just coated the copper plating with clear coat after laying them down.  

 

Just make sure that you wipe fingerprints off the copper, otherwise they show up a month down the road from differing oxidation rates.  I may or may not know from personal experience.

Edited by GrandpaPhil

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39 minutes ago, Wallace said:

 Gorilla wood glue here as well. I had used it in places where the strakes were stressed, l

That's good to know, I have been using aliphatic glue because I assumed it would be stronger. However, I was a little concerned how easy the deck plank that I replaced came off. I'm definitely going to have to test - especially where the filler on the hull is concerned.

 

41 minutes ago, Wallace said:

The jury is still out on that mate. 

The jig I was thinking of would put depressions on the surface of the plate, but this would only work if the real life nails were recessed into the plate. If the nails stood proud of the surface then I suppose you could impress the plate from the reverse, but you will probably be back in the realms of overscale again. Good luck!😁

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Posted (edited)

I have only ever used PVA wood glue for all the woodwork and I have never had a strake or wale come loose.....anchor it down well till the wood/glue dries.

Edited by harlequin

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16 hours ago, GrandpaPhil said:

Just make sure that you wipe fingerprints off the copper, otherwise they show up a month down the road from differing oxidation rates.

That is a very good point Phil. Thank you. 

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14 hours ago, harlequin said:

anchor it down well till the wood dries.

Yep, that's the trick. You can't rush it either or they just pop off again if you remove the anchors too soon. 

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16 hours ago, nikbud said:

I'm definitely going to have to test - especially where the filler on the hull is concerned.

I found that the Gorilla glue held on the filler well BUT I had to let it dry thoroughly overnight. It just seemed to take longer to cure between the wooden strake and the filler. Once it was dry however the bond was optimal. 

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Posted (edited)

Sunday, March 03, 2019:

That Makes a Nice Change…….

 

….it’s snowing again 1547959870_SnowJoke.gif.87cae5a77e66a70cdfebb07fdb27ebd0.gif 

Thankfully our new roof was completed yesterday, just in the nick of time too. We have 3 to 5 inches of snow forecast today and a week of cold weather ahead. We are just so happy that the roofers were able to get out here when they did and complete the work.

 

As promised I took the Vic back into the yard today to begin work on the wales. The wale heights were calculated using the (not very informative and rather vague) Corel plans after which I dry fitted the lowest raised wale comprising of three 5x2 walnut strakes. Once they were in place I could go ahead and glue on the first layer of two 5x1 walnut strakes that constitute the second layer of planking. It was important to get these in place as this would be where the lower level of gun ports would be located. I went ahead and, using the plans once more, I calculated where the gun ports had to be positioned and marked them accordingly.

image.png.7304b979df9a9539271a6aa89a64e138.png

Because I am going to be displaying the Victory with her ports closed it was only necessary to remove enough depth of wood to accommodate the port bracket. There was no need to drill all the way into the hull. After a couple of trials I found the best way to make the hole was with a very sharp square edged Exacto blade. This made nice neat edges and did not require me to do any sanding. Here are the first ports dry fitted.

image.png.d91c8b703abeaafbc2ef98c1126a450b.png

image.png.6cdd3b7474d42839050799813f8cb577.png

Something that did require a bit of fiddly work was getting the gun ports to close nicely. They come in two separate pieces with this kit, the bracket (don’t know if that is the correct terminology) and the door itself. In true Corel style they did not all match up exactly and, for the ones that I did prep for the dry fit, I had to do some filing to get them to close. There were a lot of burrs on the cast………

image.png.7e346e37d701f0ada679f87a06e3b6a6.png

image.png.72d30209b7dce06d1bb4971e60b21bf1.png

My work continues as I add the remaining wales, some of which will be put on today, and mark out the gun ports on the port side that I am working on.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Wallace
GIF added

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On 3/3/2019 at 8:42 PM, Cuda1949 said:

Very impressive build. I will keep watching.

Thank you sir, much appreciated. 

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Sunday, March 10, 2019:

Fitting in……

The new job has put some restrictions on me getting into the yard as often as I would perhaps like to but the benefits outweigh the disadvantages so enough said about that.

Here just a quick update to bring you guys up to speed. The copper tape for the hull arrived yesterday:

image.png.c236efeff4c067ee154c9a66c60b2249.png

 

Before I even attempt to put any of this on the hull I am going to do some more research on the best way to fit it. Should I not be satisfied then I will probably be going with the ready-made plates that were suggested earlier on in the log.

 

This is where we stand as far as planking the hull goes:

image.png.de567f6bcdf51890b492c8ddaa087775.png

image.png.d7d0a55f039f65a816865cf39d16d833.png

Just after these images were taken I carried on planking the transom and just about finished up at the bow. I got my colors sorted out (finally). Looking at the images here on the PC the yellow ocher actually looks a little brighter than it actually is. I did a test prime and top coat along the strakes just to see what it would look like. I had tried just adding the ocher to the bare walnut but it turned out too dark. By priming with white I got the color I needed. Like I said, this was just a test coat and it will be fine sanded again before the final covering goes on.

 

I did have some help in the shipyard by the way……..

image.png.11fd3f6b453b0ec2d4791270205f3680.png

Taken on a rather chilly day last week, they both fell asleep in front of the little gas fire, bless them.

 

Once I had my color mixed I decided to have a look at the cannons and give them a lick of paint too. I sanded and primed a couple of them and then added the yellow ocher to see how it would look.

image.png.172309600b6c6903b5be9346a1f317c8.png

image.png.bb90951e421f53e370954ef1a341ed15.png

So, not a lot of progress but she is coming along slowly. I am not rushing and am happy with the progress. Until next time….. :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Mark,

  Your Victory is coming along nicely.

 

 I used a pounce wheel to line out my rivets on the copper plating.  If you go with the tape, make sure that you don’t use a piece more than 3-4” long, or you’ll risk running into problems.  You’ll get a good feel for it after you lay down a few strips.

 

Just remember to take it slow.  The first side of my Victory took me a couple days to copper.  I did the other side a little quicker.  You’ll get the hang of it pretty quickly.

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Posted (edited)

Hi Mark,

 

just want you to know that they repaint the HMS Victory last year into another colour. They figured out after some inspections and renovations they used the wrong yellow all years long. It’s more a faded yellow or creamish colour yellow. Check this picture below. You see the old yellow, your yellow ocher in the back on the runway stairs.

 

https://goo.gl/images/6vfvFc

Edited by Katsumoto

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On ‎3‎/‎3‎/‎2019 at 7:11 PM, Wallace said:

Sunday, March 03, 2019:

That Makes a Nice Change…….

 

….it’s snowing again 1547959870_SnowJoke.gif.87cae5a77e66a70cdfebb07fdb27ebd0.gif 

Thankfully our new roof was completed yesterday, just in the nick of time too. We have 3 to 5 inches of snow forecast today and a week of cold weather ahead. We are just so happy that the roofers were able to get out here when they did and complete the work.

 

As promised I took the Vic back into the yard today to begin work on the wales. The wale heights were calculated using the (not very informative and rather vague) Corel plans after which I dry fitted the lowest raised wale comprising of three 5x2 walnut strakes. Once they were in place I could go ahead and glue on the first layer of two 5x1 walnut strakes that constitute the second layer of planking. It was important to get these in place as this would be where the lower level of gun ports would be located. I went ahead and, using the plans once more, I calculated where the gun ports had to be positioned and marked them accordingly.

image.png.7304b979df9a9539271a6aa89a64e138.png

Because I am going to be displaying the Victory with her ports closed it was only necessary to remove enough depth of wood to accommodate the port bracket. There was no need to drill all the way into the hull. After a couple of trials I found the best way to make the hole was with a very sharp square edged Exacto blade. This made nice neat edges and did not require me to do any sanding. Here are the first ports dry fitted.

image.png.d91c8b703abeaafbc2ef98c1126a450b.png

image.png.6cdd3b7474d42839050799813f8cb577.png

Something that did require a bit of fiddly work was getting the gun ports to close nicely. They come in two separate pieces with this kit, the bracket (don’t know if that is the correct terminology) and the door itself. In true Corel style they did not all match up exactly and, for the ones that I did prep for the dry fit, I had to do some filing to get them to close. There were a lot of burrs on the cast………

image.png.7e346e37d701f0ada679f87a06e3b6a6.png

image.png.72d30209b7dce06d1bb4971e60b21bf1.png

My work continues as I add the remaining wales, some of which will be put on today, and mark out the gun ports on the port side that I am working on.

 

 

 

 

welcome to the world of corels metal gunports…...some fit fine whilst others don't...and some snap easily......I have loads of spares if you need any.....yours just ask

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I have used the metal gunports in my Bellona build....they are not supplied with Bellona but I quite like the contrast they give....highlights them and makes a feature out of them which I like.

 

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8 hours ago, GrandpaPhil said:

Just remember to take it slow.

I will certainly do that Phil. Thank you for the tips sir. 

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