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Daforuina

18th Century Long Boat by Daforuina - Model Shipways

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I also have this kit and recently started it on vacation. I have built models before but because of its size and the delicate nature of the frames/bulkheads I had to adjust my methods a bit. The bass wood elements are easy to break when sanding during the hull fairness. Be careful. I did have to lightly file the slots in the false keel and bulkheads so I got a decent fit. Be careful with the depth of the slots so that they do not drop below the rabbet area. Once you are ready to fasten the frames/bulkheads to the false keel I built a simple jig to keep the false keel straight. It was a piece of mdf with 2 laterals that made up a false keel slot. Starting at the stern I walked my way forward fastening the frames. Checking as I went for level, port and starboard, and perpendicularity to the false keel. As you proceed make sure the frames are as parallel to each other as possible.

 

In sanding the hull for fairness one of the frames broke. I think it may have been cracked from the get go. After repair I fastened a 1/16 strip about 1 1/4 wide down the middle of the top of the frames (not interfering with the actual members that will be left behind, just in the break away part of those frames). That kept the frames pretty steady for the sanding. Once the hull is planked this can be removed. I also did this with an extension atop this member to make the transom more rigid.

 

I hope this helps. Everyone has their methods and some are less heavy handed than I am.

Joe

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Thank you Joe that was really helpful. Does it matter which way the numbers and letters face when inserting the bulkheads?

Edited by Daforuina

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Almost done fairing the bulkheads and will be putting on the transom and bow fillers. Had to hit the local Dollar General to buy a hair dryer for the planking. Felt like I was doing a late night run for a woman LOL

I know the plank on the sheer has to be bent and curved but does it need to be tapered at all?

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Daforunia,

I dont believe the sheer is tapered or the wale plank directly below it.  The rest will have to be tapered or spiled to fit the required space.

Whenever possible, reference the plans.

 

Chuck is building a larger 1:24 version with a lot more detail.  If you have a chance read through it and see a detailed version of what you are building.  Lots of great tips to pick up.  The 1:48 version you are building can be difficult for a beginner due to the small size and advanced planking required.  Just go slow and take your time.

 

Welcome to shipbuilding.  A very rewarding but slow and tedious process.

 

 

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Thank you Dowmer, I always love reading what Chuck has to say.

I starting the planking on the sheer and took me all day just to put the port side on lol. I'm taking it super slow and hopefully I'm doing everything right.

 

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Edited by Daforuina

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Dont worry, I broke the stem on mine too.  Just glue it back.  This is a very fragile model. 

 

You will find that the basswood in this kit makes it difficult as well.  Fuzzy, soft horrible stuff.  Other woods are easier to work (sand, carve etc).  But basswood will be good for you to learn the ropes.....so to speak.

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Dowmer said:

Dont worry, I broke the stem on mine too.  Just glue it back.  This is a very fragile model. 

 

You will find that the basswood in this kit makes it difficult as well.  Fuzzy, soft horrible stuff.  Other woods are easier to work (sand, carve etc).  But basswood will be good for you to learn the ropes.....so to speak.

 

 

Thank you for all your help. There was a stage with the planking I thought i had a box of firewood for the weekend lol. I glued it and a little sanding it us hardly noticeable 

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That looks good. From the photo it looks like the garboard has a very sharp curve. It should be more gradual so the next streak does not need to be bent so severely. 

Steve

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Yup Steve I wish someone said something before lol. It took me the whole day to put on the second streak. I have the first two on and after spending my whole day off too put on only two I think I'll just leave it like that. The third will not be too bad, i hope. Or should i start again?

A question: Chuck says we should have 12 in total. I only have 11 streaks. Is that a problem?

Edited by Daforuina

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I wouldn’t worry too much.  I had 11 strakes on my build. Just make sure they all fit without any gap left over. Once again, watch Chucks build of his 1/48 scale boat. Also his cutter Cheerful build. He goes over measuring out strakes, fairing and tapering planks. 

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Thank you once again. I'm such a doofus. I decided to take off the planks i had installed. Broke the keel and stem plus a bulckhead.

So like starting again.

Oh well. Will post again when i get back to this stage

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10 or 11 streaks- doesn’t matter as long as they are in proportion. However, I would rip off those two garboard streaks and redo them. It will cause problems when you start laying out the remaining planks. You’ll see when you start trying to match that curve. 

 

This log will help:

 

Steve

 

 

Edited by Tigersteve

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Ok back on track. Repaired and fixed what I destroyed yesterday and got the two sheer planks on. Been reading alot on other builds ( thank you Steve for the links) and ready to start mapping the planking.

20181026_113440.jpg

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This might sound silly but I am busy marking all the bulkheads for the planking. I see from the center bulkhead going towards the stern they are pretty much the same but my question is how do I do the markings at the stern?

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Ok reread BobFs log and zoomed on the pictures  To count  and check all his marks. Sometimes I just don't pay attention, you correct he does clearly show how the marking is done.

Thank you Steve, you have been a great help.

Have done all the marks and it looks like the planks will line up nicely

20181028_131559.jpg

Edited by Daforuina

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Well after doing all the bulkhead markings i started the planking. Had a problem with the stern strakes slipping while the glue dried but with some sanding and wood glue I'll fix the little gaps. I'm not too worried as this part will be painted and not noticed.

I'm finding the planking easier as a go further along but I guess I'm just getting used to it as I have never planked before.

I'm such a klutz. After taking off all the planks hefore and absolutely ruining the model and trying my best to get it back in workable condition i accidently knocked the model off the table and broke the stern again. There was a little damage to the bow but nothing I cannot fix to look decent.

Having a little problem because I'm using wood glue and now have no space for clamps so only doing a few bulkheads at a time.

Thank you everyone for your help. It is an inspiration and making me really enjoy my new hobby

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Sorry I haven't been able to answer any questions lately. We had a family need that took me away for the last 2 weeks. Now don't chuckle too much but I completely damaged the false keel and frames in the interim and am having to start over. My lack of focus and limited time got me in big trouble. You seem to be disciplining yourself and I need to do the same. You can't just swoop in and work on any model and then hastily retreat without consequences. Slow and steady with a clear mind is required.

Joe

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After a disasterous start my little boat is starting to look pretty good. I have a little more planking to do and then on to sanding the complete hull. After that I just have to add the little piece on the stern, replace the broken piece on the stern and remove the bulkheads and sand inboard.

A question: would it be okay to stain the complete hull and inboard before I do any of the airbrushing?

On another note I see model Expo has a one day sale today on the 1/24 scale Longboat at 40% off. I was thinking of ordering it but I should finish this project first.

Happy Halloween everyone

 

 

20181031_090057.jpg

Edited by Daforuina

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