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Ryland Craze

Medway Longboat - 1742 - 1:24 Scale - by Ryland Craze

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Hi Ryland, I'm glad to hear that all has gone well for you and that you're well on your way back to full strength.

 

Our body has a way of warning us but we tend to not listen, me included, but luckily we can now pay closer attention. 

 

My best to you my friend.

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Thanks Michael and Rusty for your comments.  I am doing great now and should make a full recovery.

 

I completed the planking and it was time to remove my Longboat from the build board.  I removed the supports at the stern and the masking tape that I had used to tape the bulkheads to the build board.  I removed the fore section first and then the aft section.  A few slight twists of the build board and the Longboat was free from the build board.

 

Next came the removal of the bulkhead centers.  I used a razor saw to cut the bulkheads free.  Chuck's design made this an easy process.  I used my razor saw to cut the bulkhead at the top down to the laser cut line on both the port and starboard sides, gave the bulkhead a slight wiggle and the centers popped free.  This was an easy process and I had no issues removing the centers.

 

P1060532.thumb.jpg.7a3ae36aaeb75a74eb40101b9017257a.jpg

P1060538.thumb.jpg.d5ca273cdbe4e29d05df1b5e797ac413.jpg

 

The model is now starting to look like a boat:

P1060539.thumb.jpg.4508b03ff6fd8a547bf0c120cd9a870d.jpg

 

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Thanks Michael and also for the "Likes".  I am glad to see the Longboat off of the build board.  With the bulkhead centers removed, the model is extremely light.  I have to be careful as I sometimes seem to be too heavy handed when handling the model.

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Ryland,

I looked back over your build log.  First of all, let me say how glad I am that you are recovering from your heart problem.  That is great news.

 

Second, I just wanted to say that I, too, will be at the NRG Conference in New Bedford toward the end of the month.  Hope to meet you then.

 

Jim 

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Thanks Michael and Rich and the "Likes".  The model is very strong while being very light.

 

Jim, thank you for your comment on my health.  I am doing great and it seems like a bad dream as to what happened to me a couple of months ago.  I will be looking forward to seeing you at the NRG Conference later this month.

 

I have installed the cap rail and the bolsters since my last post.  The cap rails need to be thinned down quite a bit and I have started this on the starboard side of the model.  I have done a lot of sanding on the cap rails and frames and still have a lot more sanding to do.  Here is a photo of my progress to date on the Longboat:

 

P1060595.thumb.jpg.ff4bb40d4f2ce40fe900ab0879ea4278.jpg

I worked on the bolsters for the past three days.  I was lucky to have made the starboard side on my first try.  The port side took me two tries.  I left about an 1/8'' of wood on the forward part of the bolsters after carefully fitting the rear part of the bolsters to the hull profile and glued them to the stem.  When I sanded down this excess wood, some red grain appeared from the middle of the port bolster.  The more I sanded, the more grain appeared.  I am not happy with this as I feel it will look like a bit of red paint got on the bolster when I paint the cap rails red.  I will have to live with it as there is no way to replace this bolster.  You never know what is hidden inside a piece of wood.

 

P1060597.thumb.jpg.480dfbece412eab7224095b0fb3d900c.jpg

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Thanks everyone for the "Likes".  I finally finished installing the simulated nails using 10LB black monofilament line.  I cut a short length of the line, dipped the end in some titebond glue and then inserted the glued end in the holes that I had previously drilled in the planks using a #77 bit.  Once finished and the glue dried, I trimmed the monofilament line close to the plank using a sharp blade.  I then gave the hull a light sanding and applied a light coat of Wipe On Poly.  Here is a picture of the line before I trimmed it.

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Here is the hull with the monofilament line trimmed and a light coat of Wipe On Poly applied:

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I then sanded the inside of the hull and applied Wipe On Poly.

P1060705.thumb.jpg.5677347ddedfca6cab401ae7560eb6d6.jpg

Next up is to paint the cap rail and then install the friezes and the molding.  That will complete Chapter 3 of the instructions.

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Very nicely executed technique with that black monofilament. In all my years around fishing, I don't recall ever seeing black monofilament. Is it hard to find?

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47 minutes ago, CDW said:

Very nicely executed technique with that black monofilament. In all my years around fishing, I don't recall ever seeing black monofilament. Is it hard to find?

Not hard to find at all. A quick search for black monofilament will yield multiple options. 
https://www.amazon.com/Magreel-Monofilament-Fishing-Nylon-Strong/dp/B07SQ1VX3P/ref=asc_df_B07SPLB6FQ/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385569651350&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3204704411157101334&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003576&hvtargid=aud-802037562948%3Apla-824255271971&psc=1&ref=&adgrpid=78921460776&th=1

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Beautiful work. 

 

Thanks for the link for the fishing line.  The 0.010 loop in the kit JUST made it through the outside hull with scraps left over. Having enough to do the whole hull in one pass is a winner. 

 

I am am looking for the red paint like “Utrecht Crimson” and metal darkening products locally and striking out.   Feels like a basic question but it has me stumped. 

 

Thanks in advance, looking forward to your progress in part 4. 

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31 minutes ago, Paulintucson said:

Beautiful work. 

 

Thanks for the link for the fishing line.  The 0.010 loop in the kit JUST made it through the outside hull with scraps left over. Having enough to do the whole hull in one pass is a winner. 

 

I am am looking for the red paint like “Utrecht Crimson” and metal darkening products locally and striking out.   Feels like a basic question but it has me stumped. 

 

Thanks in advance, looking forward to your progress in part 4. 

I used the Jax pewter for blackening. It was my first attempt working with metal blackening, so I have nothing to judge it against, but I was satisfied with the results. Just make sure the metal is super clean, and BRUSH the Jax on, do not submerge it. 

 

The stuff can be a bit pricey, but I found a little glass/jewelry  store on line that sells 4 ounces for  $6.00.  That';s a pretty good price.

 

https://glasssupplies41.com/product/4-oz-118-ml-pewter-black-patina/

 

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Thanks everyone for the comments and the "Likes".

 

Rich, thanks for the link to the Jax blackening agent.  I ordered the 4 ounce jar and received it very quickly.  This should last me a long time.

 

I initially painted the cap rail and did not like the color that I chose.  I stripped the paint off by scraping and sanding and will repaint it later with a different color of red.  I decided to move on to Chapter 4 and install the floor boards and the bow and stern platforms.  I felt this would be better for me as there would be no paint on the cap rails for me to mess up.  I found it easier to make a pattern out of card stock as recommended in the instructions for the platforms and then transfer it to the laser cut platforms.  This helped to locate the notches for the frames.  Here is a picture of the paper patterns that I made:

 

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I used a sharp blade and small files to make the cuts on the platforms.  I also had to bevel the bottom of the platforms to sit properly on the frames.  This was a slow process for me, but I was satisfied with the fit.  Here is a picture of the bow and stern platforms with the simulated nails installed and two coats of wipe-on-poly applied:

 

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And here is a picture of the platforms dry fitted to the inside of the hull:

 

P1060717.thumb.jpg.93b9d766befa95406bc498618ac1583c.jpg

 

I will be installing the risers next.  I am really enjoying this build.

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Nicely done Ryland.   That is not an easy part of the project.  Those wide floorboards are tough and you executed them perfectly.

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Thanks Chuck for your comment.  I used heat to bend the floorboards.  I have found that the Alaskan Yellow Cedar (AYC) bends well with the application of heat.  For the two outer floorboards that are made of two pieces of AYC each, I installed each piece separately as it was much easier to bend a 1/32" inch thick floorboard as opposed to a 1/16" thick floorboard.  I received many positive comments on my Longboat at my ship modeling club meeting this past Saturday.  The design of this kit makes me look like a better modeler than what I am.

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