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Medway Longboat - 1742 - 1:24 Scale - by JpR62


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  • 9 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Thank You Chuck and Gary for your kind words. The kit is a real gem and very pleasant to build.

Thanks to all the 'Likes'.

The garboard is in place.

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As you can see, before to begin the planking, the hull has been lined and tick marks have been reported on each frame.

 

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Finally, I decided to simulate the treenails at this step. It's easier to position them now.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank You to all the 'Likes'.

I continue quietly laying the planks.

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Four rows are now glued. As I only work with wood glue (Titebond), it is necessary to use clamps. To avoid marking the wood, I slide a small piece of cloth between the wood and the clamp.

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The treenails are simulated after laying each row.

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Nothing is sanded yet and some small gaps will need to be filled...

Still five rows.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

I took advantage of the end of the year to finish the planking of the hull.

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I still have to add the second layer for the two upper strakes.

A question : Do I have to follow the same sequence for the installation of this second layer and start with the plank #15 ?

Thank You in advance for your help.

 

 
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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank You Chuck for your advice and Gary for your kind support.

Thank You to all the 'Likes'.

The planking is now finished.

For the second layer, I used a more traditional method because I was afraid of not being able to give the exact shape that perfectly matches the first layer already in place using the heat of an hair dryer.

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As I was afraid that humidity would cause the first plank to curl, I protected it with masking paper using the laser sheet as template.

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The masking tape is then set up.

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The plank is soaked for 2 minutes in hot water and then placed on the hull.

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After a few hours, you get a plank that perfectly matches the shape of the hull and which can be glued without having to exert pressure. The masking paper prevented any deformation of the first layer already in place and facilitates the removal of the second plank once dry.

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The last board before its installation ☺️

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The treenail simulation is finished and the second layer thinned at the bow and at the stern.

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A good stage completed 😅

 

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  • 1 month later...

After my stop due to my surgery, happy to go back to work on this longboat 😄

If for the side decorations, I will use the friezes supplied with the kit, for the transom decoration, I opted for a more personal version.

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I take advantage of the stability offered by the build board, to paint a small freehand motif.

So I took out my tubes of extra fine oil paint. and it allows me to work again with my right hand 😉

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Time to remove the baseboard.

 


 

 

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Jean-Paul, I agree with Ron that you should try and paint the friezes on the sides also. You did such a beautiful job of painting on the transom that I'm sure you could do the sides just a well. I thought about trying to hand paint the friezes on my longboat but wasn't sure how well it would turn out. I think I should have tried that after seeing yours. Your build is looking fantastic!

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Thank you all for your kind words and thank you to all the 'Likes'.

The longboat was taken out of his baseboard. Just take your time.

First I start by cutting with a small file. When the cut mark is formed, I continue with a saw.

I remove the reinforcing tape with a tweezer just before finishing the cut.

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Time to prepare the installation of the caprail.

 

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I will put in another vote for hand painted side friezes. 

 

On my barge the caprail took a while to fit as no matter how smooth I had sanded the frame tops down they still left a gap.  Eventually I got it set

 

It is always great to get the frame centers gone as it really starts to look like an actual boat

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