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  • 3 months later...

I had put my project on the longboat on hold because I have a pretty good idea of its future presentation which will be inspired by Steve's wonderful work.

I was looking for gratings that could match the 1:24 scale.  Finally, I found what I was looking for at CAF who provides gratings at different scales.

The largest one allows for a 3 mm spacing.




So I cut 3 mm wide strips with my Byrnes table saw.




The assembly is then a breeze.




The three elements are then cut to size and sanded.






At this scale, we can afford quite precise details. Having the beautiful 3D photos of Swan class virtual 3D purchased from Admiralty Models, I was able to have a precise documentation. These virtual views are absolutely beautiful and the price is really modest considering the quality and quantity of details on this class of ship.


I allowed myself to photograph one of my gratings next to one of the detail photos of the Swan Class virtual 3D. You can only admire the quality of these photos... And there are hundreds of them detailing all the elements of the ship!




The nailing session will still be long...


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  • 4 weeks later...

Thank you to all the 'Likes'.

The work on the gratings is almost finished. I still have to glue them on the deck.



For the hatch, I used strips of wood cut with my Byrnes table saw from a sheet of 1/4" thick milled Yellow Alaskan Cedar sheet. I really like this wood because it allows for precise cuts and makes for clean angles.



The coamings have lap joints on the corners. The first coaming is done and ready to receive its grating.



First, all coamings are prepared. The lap joints are made with my new tool, a Proxxon MF70 micro milling machine and I must admit that it is very precise.



A first blank assembly is carried out.



Once the assembly is completed, the excess lengths are sanded down.



The edges are rounded and the treenails simulated with toothpicks.




For the coloring, I tested a new product from Liberon. It is a casein furniture paint. A finish with a tinted wax, also from Liberon, is finally applied with a soft cloth.





A sheet of black paper will be glued under the hatch.
I am more and more hesitant to treenail the deck.

Does anyone have any idea what size drill bit to use o simulate realistically the treenails at a scale of 1:24 ?






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Thank you Derek for your answer and thank you to all the 'Likes'.

It is my first work done with the MF70. The work is not necessarily faster but on the other hand what precision.

For the diameter of the deck treenails, so I will start with a 1 mm drill bit.

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Thank you Bob for your kind words and thank you to all the 'Likes'.


This week I worked on the simulation of the deck treenails.



I therefore opted for a 1 mm drill bit. Once the holes are drilled, the edge is accentuated using a pencil with a finely sharpened lead.



At this scale, it seemed appropriate to use toothpicks to simulate treenails.



A new coat of teak oil is applied to remove the traces of sanding.



The deck is ready to receive the two hatches. But...



Before gluing them, I would like to know if I should add treenails on the front and back edges of the hatches?

Does anyone have an opinion on this question?

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