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Tigersteve

Mayflower by Tigersteve - Model Shipways

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Hull planking is complete. Several days of sanding and filling. I used 100 grit through 400 grit. After primer is applied I will see how much more work is necessary to achieve a smooth hull. The stern needs more sanding. I will sand more in that area after the keel and stern post are attached. 
 

A tip for those building this vessel in future. Add filler blocks for the first three bulkheads. This will show you if you have the correct shape and help with fairing and planking. I did not fair enough in some areas. The shape at the bow is tricky. Mine still needs work. 
Steve

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Thanks for all the photos.   I have my own build of Mayflower going, somewhat behind yours, so you are helping me quite a bit.       I've taken some photos of Mayflower II over the past 3 years during its overhaul at Mystic Seaport.   I doubt that they'll help you - mostly they show framing and planking - but I've got some closeups of the main top and masthead before the mast was stepped along with other odds and ends of things.   I can send them to you or post them in the appropriate place on MSW if there's any interest.

 

Bob

 

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looking great, Steve. I also am building this model, but have been away from it for about a year. I'm planning to get back to it soon, and I will follow along with you here!

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Thank you for the kind words and the likes. I just applied one coat of gray water based primer using one of my wife’s old foundation makeup brushes. Very smooth bristles (works great for painting). I applied straight from the jar.
 

This will allow me to see any areas that need filler and sanding. After further filling and sanding, I will reapply the primer and repeat until a completely smooth surface is achieved. After this, deck planking can begin. 
Steve

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Steve,

 

Following up on our recent pm, remember that your not looking to have a completely gray surface after sanding. Use the filler as an color indicator to fill the low spots only. After that you could spray or brush a blanket coat of gray which will make it easier when painting tallow white.

 

Mike

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Yes- I believe we are on the same page. My next step is filler and sanding then primer to see where the low spots are. I’m not trying to get a solid coat of primer. Thank you again, Mike. You are always a great mentor here. 
Steve

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A few progress photos. Getting closer to a completely smooth surface. Several sessions of wood filling and sanding. Checked the surface twice with a coat of primer. What’s been helpful is flipping the hull upright in the light to reveal surface inconsistencies. 
 

If I could go back I would have spent more time during hull planking to create tight plank joints. My haphazard (it’ll fill and sand fine) approach has created a lot of extra work. 
Steve

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I finished coating the hull in white. After removing the tape, I sanded the unpainted strakes and applied another coat of Wipe-On-Poly. Building a cradle to hold the model is next. Chuck applied a thin wash of brown paint to his hull and quickly wiped it off to dull the brightness of the white. I will do the same after the keel is in place. 
Steve

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Steve, Its looking good! I was always partial to this kit. It really builds up nicely. I have one kicking around, but it has the usual warps and twists. I even ordered some “good” plywood to replace things but it came warped too.  I have to see if I can straighten it out. It got me thinking of the old days when plywood was plywood. I took a picture of a planking clamp I made years ago from 5/8” birch ply from Ace hardware. It has twelve layers to it!! Of course I had to walk 10 miles in three feet of snow in bare feet to get it. Or maybe that was going to school, I forget.

 

Maybe I can talk Chuck into making a 3/16 or 1/4 inch version of it. 
 

Kurt
 

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Forecastle and poop deck are completed. I laid the planks first then created the hatches off model. Hatches were sanded from 1/16” to 1/32” after installation. Hatches were placed according to plan sheet two, but I think they are a hair too close according to a late look at the other plan sheets. Too much risk of damage to remove the hatch at this point. I guess I’ll be the only one who notices this on the model aside from you trained modelers. I sanded the rest of the unpainted model to knock off the shine of the wipe-on-poly. Have to make sure to do a better application of poly next time. 
Steve

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Steve, Have you noticed that the planking around the forecastle deck on the Model Shipways kit is different from the Mayflower II and Baker's plans?   In the kit there is a planked strip that starts about 1/8"  above the aft end of the deck, then 1/8" gap, and then 3/16" of railing and planking above.     So the space is roughly in thirds with the middle third open.    On Mayflower II, however,  the space is divided in half and the lower half is open.   I'll attach a photo of the ship as it was in 2017 and which is consistent with Baker's plans from 1957.   For a real vessel, the Baker plan would drain much better.   I'm not sure which way I'm going to go on this myself but I wish I had seen it earlier.  

 

 

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I will clarify by including a photo of Chuck’s plan sheet. He explains his rationale for the design.  I still have all the photos you sent me of the replica. I am still considering adding the scuppers if I can do it cleanly. 
Steve

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Thank you everyone for the support. I really like working with the Cherry. I think it might be easier to work with than the Maple I used on the English Pinnace. I’m considering this wood for the next project. (Scratch built Confederacy)
Steve

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