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KeithAug

Schooner Germania (Nova) by KeithAug - Scale 1:36 - 1908 / 2011

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On 2/9/2020 at 7:24 PM, wefalck said:

Are you going to leave the brackt in brass ? I am using self-tinning solution to make such parts look silvery.

Eberhard - Yes they will be left brass - I quite like the contrast between the aluminium and brass. Maybe I will steer clear of gunsmith dovetail cutters. They sound too expensive to break. 

 

Pat, Michael, Richard - thank you for your kind comments.

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Ever since I started this build the cranse iron has been on my mind, probably because it's a bit more sophisticated than the typical ring with 4 ears. I have had a number of thoughts about how to go about it with many solutions involving uncomfortable degrees of simplification and compromise. Anyway I have decided to try and make it as realistic in appearance as I can get it. If nothing else this will give me more practice in problem solving.

I will start with the photographs:-

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Germania's  cranse iron is a bit of a nightmare of flanges and eyebolts. it has 2 "U" shaped brackets at the north position with a further 3 webs at east, south and west respectively. An additional 4 eyebolts are positioned at NE, SE, SW and NW. The rigging is a bit of a mess in the above picture but somewhat simpler in the partially rigged photo below.

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All this comes in a fairly small package at 1:36 scale as can be seen in the following sketch. The diameter of the hoop being .350" and the length of this section also being .350". including the smaller dimeter hoop and its associated fixing lugs the overall length is .575". 

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I hope to start cutting metal tomorrow.

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Keith, I can see my mast band method working there, if you make it in brass or can braise aluminium.

 

Instead of one diameter drilled into the stock you'd do both with an end mill then slit the tabs in the collet block.

 

You would have to remove excess tab material in places but it's doable

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Hi Keith, that would be nice to make love this type of modeling the way I would go is make the whole thing in one, turn the biggest diameter on lathe and then mill the rest in flat position for all brackets and horizontal to drill all holes and parting but this is just a thought.

 

Made some legs for a Hurricane in 1:24 scale as per drawings so I had to make two connection brackets to go on the legs, 

 

RV2S50.jpg

 

9S4PNd.jpg

 

hRNBms.jpg

 

CZacx5.jpg

 

D5R3eY.jpg

 

Regards

Richard

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8 hours ago, Retired guy said:

turn the biggest diameter on lathe and then mill the rest in flat position for all brackets and horizontal to drill all holes and parting but this is just a thought.

 

8 hours ago, Retired guy said:

turn the biggest diameter on lathe and then mill the rest in flat position for all brackets and horizontal to drill all holes and parting but this is just a thought.

Steve / Richard - thank you for your suggestions. Steve after seeing your technique a few weeks ago i did wonder if I could use it but decided the step in diameters would make it tricky. The issue is getting into the position shown by arrow.

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Getting an end mill in here is a bit of a challenge and the end mill would have to be circa 1mm or so in diameter to get a reasonably tight corner. Anyway I think I have a method of fabricating it sorted out -------- famous last words!!!!!!!

 

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3 hours ago, Bedford said:

Yeah Keith I see what you're saying and I'm keen to see how you create it.

Steve - i am talking rubbish - of course your method will work - all I would need to do is work with the big end outward. I already started my alternative approach but will revert to yours if it doesn't work.

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18 hours ago, Bedford said:

I was thinking exactly that

Steve - as I get older my mind get more fuddled.

 

I started cutting metal for the cranse. Another storm is blowing through over the weekend so no distractions and I should get it finished (that is if the expected flood bypass our house).

I started by turning the hub from 3/8" brass rod. I am making the cranse from brass as I will need to solder the parts together. The two diameters are .35" and .25" respectively.

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The large end was then slotted on the mill using a square collet block. Three of the slots will take the single flanges.

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On the 4ths side a .118" (3mm) slot was cut. This will take the top "u" shaped bracket.

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The U shaped bracket was cut from 1/2" x 1/8" brass bar milled to .118" thick. 3m holes were drilled to locate the ends of the bracket "horns"  and the gap between them. A slot was then cut with the slotting saw to form the U.

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The horns were then cut and filed to shape using a jewellers saw and needle files. Once again I used file buttons but at .075" diameter I think I was pushing the limits of the technology.

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Never the less it worked.

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The bracket was then parted off and its fit in the hub was checked. With a bit of emery it fitted quite tightly. Unfortunately the camera autofocus does not cope well with shiny brass.

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At this point the boss made a rare workshop visit to remind me we were going out to buy a new bed - so that ended play for the day.

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I knew about the file-button method, but never actually used it, I think. Instinctively, I would have tried to set up the centre of the respective borehole on the rotary table to mill the round. The file-buttons seem to be easier ...

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1 hour ago, wefalck said:

The file-buttons seem to be easier

Eberhard - yes much easier and quite accurate. For larger diameters I would generally use the mill and a rotary table but for anything less than about 0.2" diameter buttons are my preferred choice.

 

34 minutes ago, druxey said:

Sleep well!

I will thank you - but the bed will take 6 weeks to arrive.

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Thank you Pat.

 

I continued with the cranse Iron as the storm developed outside. 70mph winds and 4 inches of rain over the next 24 hours.

I next made the east / west flanges as one piece. Much bigger file buttons this time - 0.1" diameter.

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The south flange was similarly made. With all 3 components made it was time for assembly.

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with the hub vertical I put the east west flange in place followed by the north and south flanges. I used a steel clothes peg to stop the latter falling out,

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Flux and solder were then placed on the top surface and heat was applied using as blow torch.

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After cleaning with a wire brush I had this:-

fullsizeoutput_2057.thumb.jpeg.be5b47efbd58aa196655da4503ca420c.jpeg.The next step was to bore through the boss. Because of the discontinuities created by the flanges I was expecting the drill to wander off centre and it didn't disappoint me. I purposely drilled the pilot hole at 0.1" diameter and finished the bore with a 0.2" (5mm) end mill to pull the hole back into alignment.

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The next step was over to the mill where the .040" diameter eyebolt holes were drilled using the rotary table mounted vertically. 2 further holes were also drilled to take the fixing bolts for the cranse fixing lugs

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While on the mill 2 flats were milled at the front of the cranse to form the 2 axial fixing lugs.

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4 more eyebolts were made.

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These were glued in place with CA.

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Then back to the lathe for parting off and finally a decent in focus photograph. It looks much better when the photography turns out right.

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Once parted off another file button was used to finish off the axial lugs.

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And that is it - job done.

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Thanks for the master class in machining. May I inquire as to your source for the very smallest end mills you use? I'm curious what the smallest size end mill may be used on brass without breaking or severe deflection.   

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