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KeithAug

Schooner Germania (Nova) by KeithAug - Scale 1:36 - 1908 / 2011

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Eberhard - it was etched - from my bits bin. I will have to make a couple of hand wheels in the near future for the anchor capstan brake as I don't have anything the right size / shape.

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I go away for a couple of days and boy what a surprise - lovely detail as usual Keith.  I am sure even the owner would be hard pressed to differentiate between the real thing and your model when looking at photos.

 

A feast for the eyes.

 

cheers

 

Pat

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Thank you for the comments Paul, Druxey, Richard and Pat. Also thanks for all the likes.

 

I am continuing working on the foredeck specifically I am moving on to the foremost deckhouse and the anchor winches on either side of it. I am able to get basic sizing data for the deckhouse from the small plans downloaded from the web. I also have good photographic information:-

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With this information I was able to create sketch plans.

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I don't have any detail of the inside of the hatch so I am modelling it with the hatch doors closed. I am building the mahogany panelling on a solid oak core. The core was shaped on the mill.

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Planks were cut and glued in place at the deck level.

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Then individual panels and frames were cut to clad each side.

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The panel definition isn't good in this shot - it is actually much better in the flesh and even better when painted with poly on a test piece that I made. The next post will show this.

 

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3 hours ago, wefalck said:

I will be interested to see, how you will tackle the ventilators ...

Eberhard, that is some way off yet. I have a lot to make and I will make them as a batch. I do have a plan of sorts.

 

2 hours ago, Mark Pearse said:

they look like sail ties at the ready for headsails

Seems the most sensible interpretation Mark - thank you to both of you.

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The rear face of the deckhouse has bifold doors - at scale size these are quite small and I won't be making hinges. The 4 door are made as a strip.

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Together with associated panels they were glued on to the core.

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The side panels were left over long and were cut back to size on the mill.

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The top plank was glued in place where the panels had been cut back and then a piece of mahogany was turned and slit to form the corner pieces.

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The top was constructed from 0.1" wide by .060" thick planks separated by .006" card to simulate the caulking.

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The hatch top cover was similarly made.

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The tape is protecting the front corners that were made from turned brass rod. This reinforcement is included because of the proximity of the anchor chain.

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2 holes were drilled to take the vents.

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Mahogany inserts were turned to simulate the plinths on which the vents sit.

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5 hours ago, wefalck said:

quartering a round piece of wood to get the radius of the corners right

Eberhard - or alternatively make a scraper of the required radius. The turning method is quite wasteful   as the side of the cutter has to be on the centreline and hence because of the kerf only one of the quadrants is usable.

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Nice work on the deckhouse Keith but you say " at scale size these are quite small and I won't be making hinges " I was looking forward to see how you would have tackled them.

 

Regards

Richard

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1 hour ago, Retired guy said:

 at scale size these are quite small and I won't be making hinges

Yes Richard - a 3 inch hinge would be .083" at scale size. I will put a piece of wire in place to simulate the spine of the hinge - but that will be it.

 

55 minutes ago, druxey said:

gluing up pieces, turning them, then dissolving the glue in a suitable solvent?

Druxey - Good idea - I will try it - thank you.

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Keith, further to Druxeys comment, there is an old wood turning trick whereby you glue the quadrants together with paper in between then after turning it a sharp knife can be used to separate the pieces. Clearly you loose half the thickness of the paper from each face but that would not be noticeable in most cases.

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The turning mentioned by Bedford is called involuted turning. 

 

The idea is to take 4 square and numbered pieces of timber.  Glue a piece of paper between the mating faces, making a larger square. You then turn the required design. Once complete you separate the pieces and glue back together so the design is now on the inside. You can now turn the external design of the item.

Important to go with the grain in order to ensure on invisible join.

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13 hours ago, Bedford said:

there is an old wood turning trick whereby you glue the quadrants together with paper in between

Steve - thank you - I will certainly try it.

31 minutes ago, noel_colledge said:

The turning mentioned by Bedford is called involuted turning. 

Noel - thank you for the technical description - much appreciated.

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I moved on to the anchor winches starting with the design sketches.

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The winches sit on a wooden plinths surmounted by a metal plates. The winches and the pipe feeding the chain to the chain locker are mounted on the plates.

The plates were made from .031" thick brass sheet - accurately drilled for the winch and the chain pipe and then filed to shape using buttons.

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Once shaped the brass plates were finished with 5000 grit wet and dry paper.

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The wooden plinths were then formed from .031" mahogany sheet.

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The deckhouse was given 3 coats of poly (but I think I will do more).

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I then made a sketch of the winches using the photographs from the earlier post. The winch has 3 main parts - the lowest being the break, the middle being the chain sprocket and the top being a cable winch.

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I started with the brake which is 0.1" thick. The first part of the brake was the lugs for the friction strap. These were milled from .025" rod and then rounded (using buttons) with a file.

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The 2 drums were turned on the lathe (but not parted off). Slots were then milled in the drums to take the 2 lugs. The lugs were then soft soldered in place.

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The rod (with lugs attached) was then retuned to the lathe and the lugs were machined to form the upper and lower brackets.

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The drums were then parted off.

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Finally .040" rod was treaded to form the clamping screw and circular bosses were turned to make the clamping pins. The thread can be felt but it is virtually invisible to the eye or on the camera.fullsizeoutput_20d1.thumb.jpeg.fee37133a68039e3c29afd707c751ab0.jpeg

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Next the anchor sprockets.........

 

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Thank you Eberhard, Pat, Keith, Michael, Gary and Richard. 

Strange times in which we live - today I had a conversation with a neighbour when we were both on opposite sides of the road, people pass in the park while maintaining a significant distance. Apparently dog food is in short supply - even the dogs seem to have caught the hoarding bug.

 

Anyway - on with the winches:-

The chain sprockets were made in two halves. The outer diameter was calculated based on measurements of the chain. Six scallops were cut out on the mill using the hex collet block. 

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The halves were then parted off.

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I then made sure the sprocket sizing was correct by fitting the chain.

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The cable drum was then turned and a spigot was made on which to mount the components.

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The winch was glued together with CA.

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Small pins were then turned and glued in the holes of the break lugs. You can just about see the treads on the .040" rod passing through the lugs. The right hand one is fitted in the next photo.

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The break hand wheel bracket was made having done a rudimentary sketch.

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The compound vice came in handy for cutting the angles. 

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The brackets were formed in tandem.

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Before being slit off.

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