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SpyGlass

Brigantine Phoenix by SpyGlass - Master Korabel - Scale 1:72

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MORE BINNACLE

Went with varnish  and it all it goes together quite nicely.

I experimented with using cut off fine brass pins to form handles but I didnt have any I thought were small enough.

But hit a snag which I think is a kit flaw  - the plastic windows!

binn.jpg.368e0ce3176a331d4621959a3cf091d1.jpg

I dont know what plastic they are but they are supplied covered in a protective film.

But they simply dont fit  - they are a fair bit oversize which is not much on this scale. I thought at first i was making an assembly error.

But they are clearly shaped to fit flush with the cabinet with " tails" to fit into the lower internal blocks - they dont!

I managed to trim them to size but not very neat job (as you can see) -  the plastic is a bit awkward to work with - so I am going to substitute with some spare acetate sheet I have  left over from some earlier build. 

The compasses are really too teeny so at the moment you can see that they are white "blobs" but i will see if I can pretty them up with my single strand paint brush once I have the windows sorted

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I finished my Jotika HMBV Granado in 2013, the hull covered with Pinotex Wood Oil (based on linseed oil). Now looks pretty.

100_pTQHF_pinotex_wood_oil.jpg.61f09fd9c0ae0db19d1ff1a7d6d01968.jpg

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17 ER ER ER  - WHEEL AND BINNACLE POSITION !                                                              BACK TO INDEX

 

Getting on nicely with the binnacle  so i thought i would check where is was supposed to sit.

BUT NO sign of it on the plans or any pics of the build !!!

 

Found it on one of the Utube videos.

Placed immediately in front of the wheel - where you would expect it.

THEN for the first time I actually paid attention to what seemed a strange place for the wheel -  down on the main deck with no visibility forrard especially with the boat stowed.

And then  I noted the steering ropes leading down into the deck - BELOW the level of the head of the rudder.

Surely not !

I shall research a bit but I think wheel and binnacle may end up on my quarter deck.

 I noted though that the Badger kit has a similar placement seems strange

Will ask the question in the wider forums!

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Binnacle assembled - I didnt do as good a job as I would have wished but its passable - or as others say - no more time on that !.

 

A bit of sanding when all is dry and a coat of varnish - and the chimey will need to be black   !!

610658864_IMG_15371.jpg.87906c0788154f674b13c6e3a03e6068.jpg

 

Just putting up a pic here because there doesnt seem anywhere I have looked to be a picture of the actual mini kit complete

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18 WINDLASS                                                                                        BACK TO INDEX

NOW!!!! I remember why I dont like CA !

I am making what we English call a pigs ear of this  bit .

These tiny pieces of veneer give potential for wonderful results but I wonder if that is slightly over done -very very fiddly and delicate -  slight daught and they are drifting like snow flakes with the gentlest waft.

 

I thought I had hit upon a good method for assembling the  various sections . I discovered the the central hole for the shaft was exactly the same size as a slightly undersized 2mm drill bit - I shall assemble them on that I thought!

windlass.jpg.3fcf5898e7fec0e09ba72a74a550e695.jpg

Worked quite well - only one small difficulty - i waited juuust a fraction too long and my CA was fast.

So its the admirals nail varnish remover again !

But I suppose I might as well start attaching the eight tiny  pieces 7 x 2 x 0 .5 mm which make up the barrel with handspike holes - some are in front!

-But as a backup I  am investigating my option two -

take one builders merchant pencil - remove lead - apply  David plane - drill.

Just a rough trial if I despair !

pencil.jpg.7fd593f243e494c6449433d173142415.jpgtrial.jpg.fc032661c2fa5454e7cd4e51ba64ba8e.jpg

(OR INDEED option 3 - steal the windlass barrel from my Pickle build)

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Try some car wax or furniture wax on the bit as it might help with the CA sticking to it.   The results are looking good.

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Why didn't you use the toothpick intended to be used as a shaft?

 

BTW, if you do not actually need that drill bit, you can continue assembling the windlass on it and just cut the protruding parts if needed.

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 I thought the drill bit gave a smoother firmer base  for handling the delicate parts as I assembled the "sub units"  - and would not be so prone to stick !!!!

Never mind - back to PVA  and I shall progress. 

Though I am mainly looking at alternatives because I am not convinced that sticking all these teeny plates is going to end up looking look right. I think in this part MK may have  gone a bit over the top with thin veneer

Its easy enough to fabricate solid sections of drum if needs be so I will plug on for now once I the admiral has supplied the nail varnish remover !

 

I shall try the pump which seems altogether a "nicer" and more practical use of the lovely laser work.

I have another 2mm bit for that !

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SpyGlass,

When you build the pumps, I recommend soldering handle supports (the ones that consist of two folded photoetched brass parts). I have built three sets of these pumps and gluing brass to brass was nightmare. Soldering makes everything easy and the end result is so much better.

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Yes I noted that point - but actually dont have soldering gear - I think I have a way round - I dont want to glue .

But a cheap soldering iron is indeed an option.

 

Just about to see if I can remove my windlass bits from the drill bit.    !!

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19. PUMP                                                                                                                             BACK TO INDEX

 Struggling a bit with this too.

The body is made out of 3 octagonal laser cut rings which are stuck together - literally - on a toothpick.

Ok BUT the laser "angle" and the precision of the cut means that there is quite a bit of work to be done to "flat" the 8 faces.

 If it wasnt for the barrel hole down the centre it would be much quicker to file one from round dowel.

Then you have to fit -in alignment  -another teeny ring 0.5 mm ply - on top to take the handle fitting PE brass ring .

Mmanaged that on both pumps with a lot of  coarse words ( and fortunately they seem to have added a spare in the sheet) .

Then you have to fit a brass fitting around that teeeeny ring - which is oversize and has to be "worked on" - filed to size - this is a ring of ply 2mm internal diameter - about 1mm wide and 1mm thick!!! .  I fought the first one and won - so I thought - then as I fitted the brass fitting - the ply delaminated !  Stuck that together and hoping it stays.

Hopefully I can get the other done and the lot tidied up.

 I anm going to paint these black - I cannot see that they are going to turn out good enough just to be varnished.

pumps.jpg.a46d31d0b9815029e2b9173826076566.jpg

Note Etsinko's little advice - solder the next bit !!!  AAAHHHGGGGGG!!

 

Quite frankly I am disappointed in all these sub kits  ( though the boat is lovely!!) compared to the overall kit - I think that I may end up crafting these bits myself using the Photo-etch brass bits which are nice.

Or do I just have rubbish sight and poor hand eye coordination??

 

Oh on the windlass front I got most of the assembly off my drill bit but lost the windlass barrel in the middle - but I had decided to scratch that bit anyway - and I saved the pawl rings which are more important.

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Can you not drill the hole down the center? Because you're right, it looks a whole lot easier to make an 8-sided replacement from a piece of maple or boxwood. If you can't drill a hole that deep, you could make the 8 sided piece and then cut it in half and drill a hole down each piece, then reassemble. Since your pieces came from the same stock, that fit should be fine.

 

My pumps:

20190122_040117.thumb.jpg.6a1bf93bafb97ec2ba8906024bd94227.jpg

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Oh I did look at all the videos in detail! And very very good they are too - but they do show how SMALL everything is.

 

I note first he used PVA - why the **&%%^!!  did I continue using CA  .

But the main thing I notice - his pump sections seem very much more regular than mine _ I dont think I can get them down to that level of finish without taking too much off AND his teeny wooden ring didnt seem to de-laminate !

I just feel that the HUGE thought MK have put into the other parts of the kit doesnt show so much here.

 

However this is a learning curve and you are right  Vossiewulf - its not a big job to scratch these bits but I will persevere  - they will be better after a bit of work.

 

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PUMP and WINDLASS PROGRESS

 

I have give up on the build of these from the minikits -

Partly because my sight and manipulation is not too good. 

A lot because I have banged my head too many times while crawling around searching for teeny dropped parts.

But actually  mainly - I think that I cannot make these kits up as nicely as I would wish. 

 

So a combination of bits from the minikits plus some parts from my spares bin plus a bit of lateral think and I progress.

 

The pumps are formed by drilling in teeny holes to hold the top part of the minikit handle support and adding a ring from a Pegasus deadeye.

(The Tamiya tape is there because I am going to try a blackpaint/ varnish finish)

IMG_1450.JPG.c9e3f8c3e729826bc8da35256f9e3262.JPG

Top left is my start on the windlass barrel - pawl cog from Pickle kit and barrel courtesy of local DIY store and my David plane  - see below

IMG_1449.JPG.24843a7bf86124b45bb612312e3caed2.JPG

The lead in my pencils is conveniently 2mm diameter and is removed by drilling one end of the lead a little to give stability and then just pushing the lead out with a drill bit

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20. GUNS

Just paused for a while  on pump and windlass - waiting for some suitable stain to be delivered.

Meanwhile turned my attention to the guns.

Now these are a delight - I seem to have a nice set of barrels with litle evidence of flash and good "barrel holes" - a purist may want to strip them, then tidy a bit and blacken them - but I see little point  in doing that. So I will go with barrels from the box.

 

And the mini kit just goes together like a dream - just a touch of the file on some of the tabs.

NOTE that filing- worth doing  -this is solid wood with a touch of grain and could split if forced.

Also I found the "fake" cap holes were a  fraction tight so again I eased them with a 1.5mm drill bit.

But then click click - dry fit absolutely fine.

I did puzzle a bit over the coign whose tab seemed a little short for its slot .

But I dont know if this is MK being brillant again but it means the coign can be slid to adjust the gun to level. Great  - as long as i remember not to glue them before they are all lined up.

( actually i will do what I normally do and make a simple jig  to sort out the rigging and include a barrel level reference point)

IMG_1451.thumb.JPG.d2d8bf6136a3166fa056d77f02dd9a8f.JPG

IMG_1452.thumb.JPG.2a537c573cec81a1a9858503261db00a.JPG

 

 

 

 

Coign  " adjustable slot"  marked

IMG_1454.thumb.JPG.91be83245419c45aa943b5662ddfc2de.JPGIMG_1453.thumb.JPG.d33392017b2bd545e14250f5684eb7f5.JPG

 

 

 

So rough and sloppy dry fit  -  going to paint carriages red - the "fake" cap squares are brilliant and the laser wood sections - again MK thought the problem through

IMG_1455.thumb.JPG.b96494cea5894ad0af46c0a127b512fd.JPG

Just for reference the carriage is 15mm long  -the barrel 29mm

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21. GRATINGS AND LADDERs

Just working through a first pass of each of the "small builds" while I wait for paint and stuff.

 

So Gratings  Excellent !

Good clean cut - snug fit  and they are cut so that they  fit flush - unlike some which dont have the slots deep enough - these seem spot on.

Somebody queried the scale - they are just under 1 mm spacing  - a bit under 3 inchs real then - seems ok to me.

Did a trial set 8 holes by 8 holes and they came up what appeared to be exactly firm and square !!  I was a bit surprised - so i checked the angle - spot on !  These lads can laser !

So shall i get fancy and make the coamings with overlap joints  or  just square fit - searching for my coaming jig !

 

 

Bit of a red face  on the ladder front  -spent ages trying to work out which hatch had a ladder - then twigged the ladders were all for the quarter deck.

Found I was past the stage where I could easily adjust the hull to take a ladder at one of the gratings - never mind - all hatchs closed !

 

Ladder build seems possibly another  case of one fiddly step too far for me - but I have a number of elements for 1/64 kits which should be OK.

Tea break   for consideration

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Hi spyglass

Nice work, I'm not sure if it's the photo or not but the gun looks upside down in that last photo, the trunnion should be off centre and at the bottom. Regards

Paul 

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More Guns stuff

 Now got all my paints etc so I can move forward.

Just seeking thoughts on the rigging.

At this scale just the breech rope will probably suffice but I have some suitable nice small blocks spare which would allow me to also add the tacklesif I wished.  I notice that in the youtube video - though not mentioned - the final guns suddenly sprout the additional tackle eyes.

 

Has anyone tried extra rigging?

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Just now, SpyGlass said:

More Guns stuff

 Now got all my paints etc so I can move forward.

Just seeking thoughts on the rigging.

At this scale just the breech rope will probably suffice but I have some suitable nice small blocks spare which would allow me to also add the tacklesif I wished.  I notice that in the youtube video - though not mentioned - the final guns suddenly sprout the additional tackle eyes.

 

Has anyone tried extra rigging?

I noticed extra blocks in the videos too. But for my model I decided to go just with the breaching ropes only.

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Yes -  I was just trying out a test set and i think its the way to go.

But I am not sure about the recommended ropes - first  the labelling on the .5 and .6 mm line appears to be reversed!!

But the 0.6 still seems a bit light weight to me for a breach rope  - delving into my stores for some  more samples .

And  I am not to sure about the supplied rings  - again back to my spares box - i have some 2mm diam eye bolts which seem a bit small  and 3mm which may be a trifle large. Humm Any commenst ??

 

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Just now, SpyGlass said:

Yes -  I was just trying out a test set and i think its the way to go.

But I am not sure about the recommended ropes - first  the labelling on the .5 and .6 mm line appears to be reversed!!

But the 0.6 still seems a bit light weight to me for a breach rope  - delving into my stores for some  more samples .

And  I am not to sure about the supplied rings  - again back to my spares box - i have some 2mm diam eye bolts which seem a bit small  and 3mm which may be a trifle large. Humm Any commenst ??

 

I think I used 0.6mm thread for the breaching ropes and for rings, I made my own using 1.5mm (I think) drill bit.

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I will figure the rope size out later -  for now i will just make my own simple rings from coated wire to the size I want - I have several wite guages in spares but this will do for me/

645329962_gunrings.thumb.jpg.01e725edd4bed27bfe52024c298b3092.jpg

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So quick trial - like the paint colours and I do like the simulated trunnion cap but I need a finer brush  !

To me that breech rope ring seems  OK ish - 1.5mm diam using 0 .5mm wire.  I may try just a 1.0 diam and see how it looks. Then start doing the guns. BUT need to get this right - because UNLIKE any other gun I have built the barrel is locked into the carriage construction so you cant take it off to fiddle with rings etc

 

I hope soon though to get on with the main hull when I get the replacement bits which are on their way

 

guncarr1.jpg.e361eb905170dcdf0d5940de4fdbab70.jpg

The 0.6 rope looks passable but again maybe I will go up a but when i come to fit it.

guncarrr2.thumb.jpg.d96464b73ea0464e6f5a0090d9751279.jpg

Humm  the ring and the rope dont seem quite to match.

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