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mispeltyoof

HMS Snake by mispeltyoof - Caldercraft - scale 1/64

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Begun the Caldecraft Snake kit. Impressed with quality of components although with the very high price paid should be. Also impressed with the provision of a cradle to build the ship all providers could easily supply.All components  seem to be there for  now. All bits fit well with a small amount of filing. But when dry fitting the false deck it appears that it us well out if kilter to match up with the bulwarks. Tomorrow's job will be to try to match the deck up with bulwarks for fitting presumably by much sanding ,cutting and filing to get them to line up. One problem I can see is the false deck is incredibly thin and flimsy so vulnerable to splitting.

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Just as an historical side note, this kit is one of a series of early Caldercraft "Nelson's Navy" kits that were designed by Chris Watton, whose name you may see crop up elsewhere on this site. These were considered cutting edge kits back in the day (although in this case "back in the day" is only two decades), and they're still pretty nice, even though kit design has taken some steps forward since then. The instructions in these early CC kits are not nearly as extensive as in later kits from the company, but since this isn't your first rodeo with model ships, you probably won't need them nearly so much. I have always liked the clean-cut looks of the ship-rigged Cruizers, and this kit does produce a nice finished product. Hope you enjoy it!

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hi,

when I built my snake - about 4 1/2 years ago i moistened the middle of the deck and gently and carefully with the aid of my plank bender was able to fold the false deck and slip into place. others have cut the deck in half and glued in both halves.   

 

hope this helps,

mort

 

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Got the deck on. After gently teasing the three bulwarks on the front of the left side until it started to slide down into position. Did the same with the front right hand side and the whole deck suddenly clicked down into position,! As per the recommended method in their instructions.

Then fitted bulwarks and stern without too much hassle

 

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Now my dilemma begins! The instructions say fit the internal supports to the stern but they need to go on top of the deck planking which comes much later. The innner bulkhead planking baffles me completely. The bulwarks don't fit all the gun porrts which I  have to paint after planking. So do I scratch build a frame round the gun ports before planking otherwise I have only an empty space where I should be painting in red ochre.I think I'd be better sorting this before planking the  deck. 

The instructions want all the hull planking finished before any of the above.

Reckon I'll sort out my own order of construction but one always has the worry that you'll regret mindlessly following  what, appear to me ,to be illogical sequences of construction.

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 The bulwarks problem solved as I discovered in a hard to spot comment at the bottom of a paragraph that I have to somehow saw off the frames above the false deck that the bulwarks were glued to in the first place. This should be an interesting challenge!

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Hey Mispeltyoof.  The the frames that are holding the Bulwarks on are to be pulled off after you're done planking the outer hull.  I carefully scored the bottom of the frame tab near the deck and then cracked them out with a pair of pliers.  It is a bit barbaric and leaves some hideous marks but that gets planked over anyway. 

Edited by Duncbe

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Hi, I am currently doing Cruiser which is essentially the same kit. Yours looks to be going together better so far.

 

I have done a few logs which might show some of the problems I have had but you are already catching me up. The worst failing I am finding is that there is not enough bulkheads to properly hold the planking to the right shape. I am doing the second layer now and there is nothing to pin though to other than the first layer. This is just where the planks need pushing up together to prevent the small gaps between.

 

Telling you this as you still have the chance to pack between the bulkheads.

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Been a while since update as lengthy processes reached e.g. Planking and coppering. As I wanted my ship to be as "organic" as the original ship I didn't follow the often used trend to apply layers of filler ,primer and undercoat before applying the 900 copper plates. Although this makes the surface similar to moulded plastic and makes the job far easier I couldn't see the point of bothering with the second layer of walnut planking to simply bury it under filler. I know that a response may justifiably point out you can't see the planking under the tiles but I would always know it wasn't the same as the original Snake.😉

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Decision time. Started to install furniture on deck . Instructions say rig wheel assembly with ropes etc and fit all pin boards along bulwarks before installing cannonades. I wonder if I may find attaching gun  ropes and blocks difficult if fitted last so may install all the guns first and then rope ships wheel assembly etc later.

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Hi, Your cracking on with this, have overtook my Cruiser. I tend to agree, those pump handles are too fragile to work round.

 

I'm intrigued by the 'sills' on the bottom edge of your gunports, are these in the kits plans, I have not noticed them before?

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Posted (edited)

The sills came with the kit. I'm supposed to pin the carronades to the sills with supplied triangular brackets. When I tried a dry fit found the gun barrels can't possibly fit under the top of the gun ports so will fasten the guns directly to the deck .

Edited by mispeltyoof

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Moving onto the channels next before the carronades as I figure fitting the channels may involve me in much turning and twisting of the hull and I don't want all the guns falling off constantly.

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An antidote to all the wonderful builds on here I will share my "senior disaster " day to encourage all bumblers here. I have reached the point on my Caldercraft Snake build where I am constructing chainplates. As I realise after researching for a couple of days about how to construct these as sadly the instructions are for people who have a clue what they are doing I began to construct them. Thats when I discovered that for some reason my whale was too low . Never mind too late now Ill just fit them regardless as I cant move the Whale at this stage. Then I notice that the channels don't match up on Port and Starboard sides!
Realised that DOH when I fitted the channels I looked at the plan and fitted one side then fitted an identical batch on the other side without turning the ship round so now onone side the three channels are reversed. So rip them all off and start again. I realise that I am the only aged ,partially sighted and brain dead idiot on here as clearly everyone else is a master builder but what the hell I still love this hobby to bits.:))

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Hey man, Don't beat yourself up. The instructions are weak.  As long as you learn from mistakes, move forward, and keep at it.  you'll get there.

 

My Snake is not the best and My Sherbourne is pretty much a disgrace to the art.  My first build the Amati Adventure will never see the light of day... that thing was a total embarrassment. 

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Reached the point to install the guns. (apparently once they are on a ship they are called "guns") Once I"d built the deck and bulwarks tried a carronade and there was always going to be a problem to fit. As the deck and bulwarks were as near perfect as possible thought I deal with it when the stage reached. It became obvious that the guns were far too high for the gun ports. I abandoned the wheels at the rear of the trolley. That lowered the guns then I thought why waste them and replaced the fiddly assembly to support the barrels and replaced them with the "wheels". When I also abandoned the triangular fastenings to the outside of the gun ports they all fitted well. As no-one but me would see the barrel supports the omission of the wheels on the rear pale into insignificance compared to the correct height of the carronades

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Building my HMS Snake and got to fitting the anchors. The instructions and plans appeared to be very simplistic in so much as basically saying tie them to the side. I thought this would mean in reality that the couldn't be used and didn't look right. After looking at paintings and drawings of ships of the line I realised that they were loose at the side of the bow ready to be dropped by the crew when required .The clearest schematic was in Stephen Biesty's Cross Section book. I find this book an invaluable reference source.

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Completed Gammoning on the bowsprit.A week ago never heard of gammoning so had to research, My Peterson Rigging "bible" studiously ignores the existence of such a thing and the instructions no help. After much research pleased with my average attempt but like many of these tasks if I did it again would be much better. I decided to use the .75 thread rather than the .5 required by the instructions as it seemed very thin and just didn't look right. I used 48inches of waxed thread which was just about right, cut any less and you'll be in trouble.I was lucky in my guess for the cleats (apart from one!) but anyone reading this should consider gammoning before fitting the cleats as they should butt up to the gammoning.

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