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Sultana by SardonicMeow - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64

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Get a dremel with a sanding barrel - turn it on...and sharpen them by spinning the blunted tip against the spinning barrel.  Takes one sec..and you can reuse the toothpicks for applying touches of PVA or CA glue. 


I love toothpicks....things are miracles!


Looking great!!!

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3 hours ago, SardonicMeow said:


What am I to do with all these tipless toothpicks? 

Send them to Patrick.:D

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Peter, I love your transom windows.  They look really nice.  I especially like The way you built the assembly up.

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A bad cold and a variety of obligations made me put the build on hold for a few weeks.


The deck has been stained.  In spite of lots of sanding, there was still enough glue to make the stain cover inconsistently.  However, if you look at pictures I've posted of the deck earlier, there is some inconsistency due to weathering, so I'm not too upset.



The bulwarks were added and painted red on the inside.  Figuring out the right height for the bulwarks was a challenge.  Six slots for the scuppers were added on each side of the main deck.  I did not completely succeed in making them perfectly rectangular.


Here's an image of the scuppers on the real ship.



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3 hours ago, Overworked724 said:

Was it brush or airbrush?

Brush.  I thinned the paint a little, which is why it took several coats, but helped to keep the paint smooth.  As long as my brush strokes followed the flow of the planks, they were nearly unnoticeable.


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Ships are living things that change over time.  I am approaching a point where I'll have to make some decisions about what specific point in time I'll depict in my model.  Here are two pictures of the Sultana.  The top one is from the blog ship25bsa.smallsquareddesigns.com and was taken August 2003.  The lower picture was taken by me in October 2018.


The most obvious change is the black stripe painted between the planksheer and caprail.  The nameplate at the bow was changed to match.  The painted figurehead in the older picture is a rare sight.  Nearly every other picture I've found has the figurehead solid white, and I plan to keep it that way.  There are other minor changes (like the pintles and gudgeons I have pointed out), as well as other minor details not visible in these pictures.


What do you think?  Do you prefer the older look or the newer look?  I think I'm leading toward the older version.


Here's another comparison picture.  Top is from the blog 829southdrive.blogspot.com November 2014 and the bottom is another of mine from October 2018.


It's not obvious from the top picture, but the band between planksheer and caprail is painted black.  However, the bow nameplate is still light.  Note the light gammoning rope.  The only other time I've seen it light is in pictures of the Sultana at launch.  I'll be using black gammoning in my model.  The big difference in these pictures is the change in the style of anchor.



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Nice pics!  Everyone has preferences.  I prefer the older look: wooden stocks for the anchors, the black painted pintles/gudgeons, black gammoning, and not going with a broad black band above the wales (seems to my eye a bit rough - I like her 'lines'). 


However - I'm sure anything you choose will be great!  Keep in mind that ships at all ages also got painted and refit, so who is to say a mix of some of those changes are not accurate for the time you are portraying?   

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Peter, I definitely like the older anchor better than the one in the 2018 photo.  But I also like the additional contrast that the dark band creates.  It’s really neat that you have all of this info on the ship to get the details right.  I don’t think you can go wrong either way.

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With the warm months just a memory, I'm back to working on the Sultana.


There are several parts that I'm anxious about on this model.  The cap rail over the transom is one.  I tried to bend a wood strip for the part, but had little success.  So I have tried to produce it via 3D print instead.  Modeling it in Fusion 360 was also a challenge, and I ended up with something of a compromise, as can be seen below.


I started with the curve of the transom shape that I had developed previously for the laser cut transom pieces.  I thickened the curve to a thickness of 1.5mm.


Then I wanted to extrude it horizontally.  But when I tried to extrude I realized that it could only be extruded normal to the plane of the sketch.


That wasn't what I wanted.  It turns out that the Sweep, rather than the Extrude, operation was the correct one.  I added a line in the direction and length (10mm) that I wanted.


With that, the Sweep operation created the shape.


Below on the left is a picture of the piece as it came out of my 3D printer.  I intentionally created a piece longer than necessary, with the intention of filing it down to the correct fit.  In the picture at the right is the final piece after being filed down.


And the piece was finally glued into place.  I created the small curved fashion pieces in wood, painted black, which merge the cap rail and wales.


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The aft rails are next.  Below is a picture of the Sultana with the rail stanchions marked.  Middle stanchions are in pairs, and there are singles at each end.  (At least, that's what I assumed.  The foremost may also be a pair, but I couldn't see it clearly in any pictures, and I went with a single.)


I created the shape of the rail in Fusion 360 to match the curve of the edge of the deck.  All rails here and in future steps will be 3.2mm wide and 1mm thick, to mimic 1/8" x 1/32" strip wood.


I made a copy of the rail and positioned the rails in approximately the angle they would appear on the ship.


The stanchions were added.  Stanchions are 2mm square at the base, tapering to 1.5mm at the top.  Stanchions are taller forward and shorter aft to match the angle between the rails.


The upper rail was moved slightly aft, then square holes were added to accept the tops of the stanchions.


Here are the 3D printed parts.  The set above are being glued together.  The set below are fresh out of the printer.


And finally the rails were glued to the ship.  The rails were painted with black to remove the glossy plastic finish.  I also made some short rails for the next step down.  These are also visible in the picture.


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Here's a shot on the Sultana looking forward.  The rails at the bow are somewhat complicated.  The knightheads stand proud on either side of the bowsprit.  Working along the rail, there are three cleats, then the rail is broken by the cathead.  After the cathead, there are seven timberheads, which are wider at the top.


This picture shows my final design for the forward rails.  There were several iterations to get things where I was satisfied.


This picture shows how the timberheads were angled to match the slope of the bulwarks.


And this is the design of the cathead.


All the pieces were 3D printed.  Here are the pieces for the starboard side.  All pieces were gently sanded and painted matte black prior to gluing.


Two shots of the pieces after being glued.


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Time for the quarterbadges.  Here's a nice big picture I took last year of the Sultana's quarterbadge.


Initially, I thought I would model this in Fusion 360's T-Spline modeling area.  However, that proved to be beyond my abilities with the software, and ultimately, not necessary at the scale at which I'm working.  The quarterbadge form pushes my 3D printer to its limits.  In the end, the best approach was not to try to model the quarterbadge form perfectly, but to arrive at a shape that would create the best badge based on the limited ways the 3D printer would produce each layer.


I started simply by creating a single layer object to establish the general outline of the shape.  From there, I gradually built up each form of the badge.  The picture below shows the evolution of the design.


The following pictures show my final 3D design and the corresponding 3D printed part.  The mechanical pencil is included for scale.


When I designed the bulkheads for the model, I intentionally made sure that there would be empty space inside the hull at the location of the quarterbadges.  In fact, if you go back to my post of 20 March, you can see on the last picture that I painted that area white before planking over it.  All of that was for the purpose of having the interior visible through the quarterbadge windows.


I carefully broke through the planking and exposed the cavity.  My design wasn't perfect, and some bulkhead wood also had to be filed back a bit.  The cavity was given an extra coat of white paint.  (The walls of the Sultana's cabin are painted white.)


The quarterbadge pieces were painted yellow and white, and cellophane was glued to the windows as glazing.  Then the quarterbadges were glued into place.


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The design and 3D printing of parts continues.  This time, it's the channels.  After some experimentation, I made them a little bit larger than what appears on the plans.  The tabs were added as an aid in attaching them to the hull.


Here are the pieces after printing.


I also printed long strips, 1mm x 1mm, to use as the trim.  Note how the channels and trim are merged.


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Here is the template I used to laser cut the window overhang on the stern.


By using the lines on that template, I was able to create a pattern for the black trim around the windows.  The 3D form is below.  This was printed on my 3D printer.


I also created a form for the area below the windows.


I designed and printed out the lettering on photo paper.  I wasn't sure exactly how large it should be, so I created a set of images in varying sizes.  The images on the left will be used later for the nameplate on the bow.


The lettering was cut out and glued to the shape that will go below the windows.


It was necessary to trim away some of the wood below the windows so that the shape would fit properly.


And this is the result, with the pieces glued on.  Some touch-up of the paint will be needed.


And this is a reference photo from sultanaeducation.org showing the stern.  I will need to add the window covers and the lamp, but I think I will save that for later.  If I added them now, they will be in danger of breaking off while I work on other parts of the ship.


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There is netting along the aft railings of the Sultana.  My first thought was to use some tulle.  However, the scale was wrong, and the tulle was too thin and light, barely noticeable.  I tried painting the tulle to darken it and thicken the strands, but the paint failed to adhere.


It was clear that I would need to make my own netting from thread.  My next attempt started by trying to form netting from individual strands of thread, which I would saturate with glue to hold them together.  You can see how far I got below.  It was immediately clear that I didn't have the patience for this method, and the mesh would be uneven.


Of course, there is a 3D printed solution to every problem.  I 3D printed a jig to use for forming the netting.  Then glue was applied to hold it all together.


And the netting was put on the ship.  Also note the deck steps which were added around the same time.


Here's a reference photo I took which shows the netting.  Mine is a little lighter in color, but acceptable.


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Strips for the pintles were added to the rudder.  I determined that, at this scale, pins were not needed and would be hidden from view anyway, so they were omitted.


The gudgeons were added to the hull.


After watching a few tutorials, I managed to create a reasonable propeller in Fusion 360.


I wasn't sure what the right size would be to fill the space, so I printed it in several sizes.


The rudder and propeller were glued into place, and the rudder chains were attached.


Here is my reference photo for the rudder, found on sultanaeducation.org.


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With the rudder in place, all it needs is the tiller to be complete.  However, it will be difficult to work on several final features of the transom with the tiller in place, so those need to be completed first.  Of those, the first is the boom sheet traveler, with a black plate behind it.  You can also see the holes that were drilled for the window cover ropes.


The transom windows were laser cut, so I already had their exact shape an size from the laser cut template.  From that, I was able to produce the window covers in the correct size.  Hinges were added in black, and the rope was threaded through each window cover.


Here are all the window covers in place.  I also added the lamp, whose "glass" was made by building up layers of clear glue.  The small diamond shapes next to the lamp, both here on the model and on the real ship, exist to hide where the ends of the boom sheet traveler puncture the transom.


On the other side of the transom, the ropes are tied off on two very tiny cleats.


Finally, I can make the tiller.  Here is the 3D design.


The tiller was 3D printed, painted, and installed on the ship.


Here is a photo I took of Sultana's tiller


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That looks great, Peter.  With your deck weathered to match the real thing, I had to look twice to tell which pic was the model and which was the 1:1 ship!

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