KORTES Posted February 27, 2019 Share #1 Posted February 27, 2019 Dear Colleagues, please let me present my first model made from the ground-up – the model of French military schooner «La Jacinthe». From the drafts of the monography Jean Boudriot. I used pear tree and painted hornbeam. Scale 1:42 Technical characteristics of the model: length 895 mm, width 285 mm, height 670 mm. In the process of building I have used as example the works of Dmitriy Shevelev and Slavyan Snarlev. I finished my work on the 23 of September 2016. I had a photo report of the work, I decided to post it, maybe it could useful to someone. My best regards, Alexander. BETAQDAVE, mtaylor, catopower and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share #2 Posted February 27, 2019 Workpieces were cut with the help of hand fret saw, afterwards were retouched by grinder. GrandpaPhil, Valeriy V, Keith Black and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share #3 Posted February 27, 2019 Filling of the hull. BETAQDAVE, catopower, GrandpaPhil and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share #4 Posted February 27, 2019 The covering was made out of the asp laths 1.3:12 mm in two layers, afterwards retouched by sand paper, and then I proceeded with the deck. CiscoH, catopower, Keith Black and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share #5 Posted February 27, 2019 (edited) Edited February 27, 2019 by KORTES mtaylor, GrandpaPhil, BETAQDAVE and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share #6 Posted February 27, 2019 After taking measuring, I had to fix the outlines in certain places, glue some extra laths, and then finished up with rat-file. In this case asp was a good choice – the wood is not too siftproof and can be nicely processed with sandpaper. mtaylor, catopower, Valeriy V and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share #7 Posted February 27, 2019 Keel, sternpost and control blade. catopower, BETAQDAVE, paulsutcliffe and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share #8 Posted February 27, 2019 Until I haven’t gotten around to make the hull, - I have made a quarter boat. The technology is standard . Firstly I have constructed a mold. mtaylor, paulsutcliffe, Valeriy V and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share #9 Posted February 27, 2019 After that – frame and covering. Material – pear tree and black hornbeam. Valeriy V, Keith Black, paulsutcliffe and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share #10 Posted February 27, 2019 After that inner components of quarter boat. muratx, mtaylor, FriedClams and 9 others 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share #11 Posted February 27, 2019 For a try, I oil- coated it without adding any wax. Keith Black, Richard Griffith, BETAQDAVE and 19 others 22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Posted February 27, 2019 Share #12 Posted February 27, 2019 Just beautiful work! I have the plans but never seem to get up the nerve to attempt it so I am anxious to follow. Is the build by Dmitriy Shevelev on a Russian forum? Greg mtaylor, Keith Black, BETAQDAVE and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share #13 Posted February 28, 2019 (edited) 13 hours ago, Reg said: Is the build by Dmitriy Shevelev on a Russian forum? Yes it is. I’m very touched by your attention to my work. Edited February 28, 2019 by KORTES mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share #14 Posted February 28, 2019 Before covering, I have made some elements. Anchor bitt – material – pear tree. JOUFF, BETAQDAVE, JpR62 and 10 others 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share #15 Posted February 28, 2019 Deck covering. Material – pear tree. JpR62, tkay11, CiscoH and 18 others 21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Griffith Posted February 28, 2019 Share #16 Posted February 28, 2019 Beautiful workmanship, Kortes. I think the gerbel is your secret weapon..... What have you used for the black seams in the deck? Duff mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share #17 Posted February 28, 2019 Yes, you're right, the bunny was my partner in the building process. So I can say I was working under his supervision. Concerning the caulking - I was using the plastic tape. I posted the process in the theme Friech Boeir Yacht SPERWER by Kortes - 1:30 scale on the page Keith Black, BETAQDAVE and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share #18 Posted February 28, 2019 (edited) As I had to work under a constant supervision, I forgot to post photos at the time. Although the process of lath bending has been highlighted many times, I would still like to share my experience. I think it could come in handy in the process of covering of the overhang and taffrail. I tried different modes, but decided to use the one that consists in bending the steam-treated plank on the pattern. This complicates the process a bit, making it more time-consuming, but when setting in place, the further work is much more comfortable. The lath I used is no less than 1,5mm thick, if it’s thick it can be refined using marking gage. Edited February 28, 2019 by KORTES Keith Black, CiscoH, Dubz and 9 others 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yvesvidal Posted February 28, 2019 Share #19 Posted February 28, 2019 I like the bunny. Nice companionship. Yves Keith Black, mtaylor and BETAQDAVE 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted March 1, 2019 Author Share #20 Posted March 1, 2019 Following my photo –report – here are some photos. Covering. Keith Black, CiscoH, Dubz and 10 others 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted March 1, 2019 Author Share #21 Posted March 1, 2019 Rubbing strip and two upper belts I decided to make out of black hornbeam. It turned out to be a very technological material. mtaylor, Keith Black, BETAQDAVE and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted March 1, 2019 Author Share #22 Posted March 1, 2019 As a result… druxey, BETAQDAVE, mtaylor and 7 others 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted March 1, 2019 Author Share #23 Posted March 1, 2019 Now, some of mistakes… In order to warn my colleagues, who , just like me , don’t have too much experience, I wanted to highlight my mistake in the process of covering. More than once in the working process I made sure that THE BEST IS THE ENEMY OF THE GOOD. After having completed the covering I decided , following the example of the Masters, to highlight the joints between the laths a bit. As a result, I haven’t succeeded in it, but I ruined the covering. The reason turned out to be banal – the glue on the plank ends, which wasn’t erased in time. JOUFF, BETAQDAVE, druxey and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted March 1, 2019 Author Share #24 Posted March 1, 2019 After some consideration, I decided to re-do the covering. druxey, yvesvidal, GrandpaPhil and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted March 1, 2019 Author Share #25 Posted March 1, 2019 Taking into account experience and mistakes. KeithAug, BETAQDAVE, FriedClams and 24 others 27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted March 1, 2019 Share #26 Posted March 1, 2019 Well done for doing the planking over again! It's a hard decision, but one I'm sure you are glad of now. Keith Black, mtaylor, paulsutcliffe and 2 others 5 Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BETAQDAVE Posted March 1, 2019 Share #27 Posted March 1, 2019 While this method obviously works well for you, I am wondering why you don't just make the frames, fill the spaces solid with blocking, shape the hull and proceed directly to the finish planking rather than adding two additional layers of sub planking onto your solid blocked and shaped hull? It seems like a lot of additional work to accomplish the same result. Or is there a method to your madness? Because as I can say there is no denying the quality of your results. mtaylor and tkay11 2 Quote Dave “You’ve just got to know your limitations” Dirty Harry Current Builds: Modified MS 1/8” scale Phantom, and modified plastic/wood hybrid of Aurora 1:87 scale whaling bark Wanderer. Past Builds: (Done & sold) 1/8” scale A.J. Fisher 2 mast schooner Challenge, 1/6” scale scratch built whaler Wanderer w/ plans & fittings from A.J. Fisher, and numerous plastic kits including 1/8” scale Revell U.S.S. Constitution (twice), Cutty Sark, and Mayflower. (Done & in dry dock) Modified 1/8” scale Revell U.S.S. Constitution w/ wooden deck and masting [too close encounter w/conc. floor in move] Hope to get to builds: MS 3/16” scale Pride of Baltimore II, MS 1/2” scale pinky schooner Glad Tidings, a scratch build 3/16” scale Phantom, and a scratch build 3/16" scale Denis Sullivan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithAug Posted March 1, 2019 Share #28 Posted March 1, 2019 Kortes New planking looks good - how did you remove the old planking? Keith Black and mtaylor 2 Quote Keith Current Build:- Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24 Previous Builds:- Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/ Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702 J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029 Other Topics Nautical Adventures http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted March 2, 2019 Author Share #29 Posted March 2, 2019 19 hours ago, druxey said: Well done for doing the planking over again! It's a hard decision, but one I'm sure you are glad of now. Dear druxey, Yes, you are right, making this decision wasn't easy, but I had an example of the outstanding Masters in front of me and I really wanted to get even if for a little closer to their quality of work. In the end I was satisfied with the results, even though I had to redo my work many times. Plus I have gotten experience out of it. 19 hours ago, BETAQDAVE said: While this method obviously works well for you, I am wondering why you don't just make the frames, fill the spaces solid with blocking, shape the hull and proceed directly to the finish planking rather than adding two additional layers of sub planking onto your solid blocked and shaped hull? It seems like a lot of additional work to accomplish the same result. Or is there a method to your madness? Because as I can say there is no denying the quality of your results. Dear BETAQDAVE, It's hard to give a definite answer on the choice of the method of making a hull. I found this method used by Snarlev, and at that moment I thought it was the easiest and the least labor consuming.When working on "Sperwer" I used a different method, and I could say that each one has its own advantages. 18 hours ago, KeithAug said: Kortes New planking looks good - how did you remove the old planking? Dear KeithAug, The covering was removed by means of heating by a hot air gun, it wasn't hard due to the fact that I used PVA glue. My best regards, Alexander. paulsutcliffe, michael mott, FriedClams and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KORTES Posted March 3, 2019 Author Share #30 Posted March 3, 2019 I have finished the covering of the second broadside. Sketching and putting treenail in place are still to be done. I’m still trying out on samples. As I will have to drill a lot, the manual drill will not be the best solution, I had to work on and upgrade my mini-drill. I bought it on flea-market a long time ago, but couldn’t find any use of it. Yesterday I installed a small switch and now I’m testing it. Jorge Diaz O, Sea Hoss, Richard Griffith and 6 others 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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