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DocBlake

HMS Blandford by DocBlake - Cross Section - Scratch Built - 1/32 Scale - FINISHED

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The bands are actually shrink wrap used by electricians.  Choose the proper size, cut off the bands, put them on the pump and shrink with a heat gun or put in a 300 degree oven for 5 minutes.  Works well for banding on anchor stocks also!

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56 minutes ago, DocBlake said:

The bands are actually shrink wrap used by electricians.  Choose the proper size, cut off the bands, put them on the pump and shrink with a heat gun or put in a 300 degree oven for 5 minutes.  Works well for banding on anchor stocks also!

That seems to work really well

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The main deck framing is complete. It still needs final sanding as well as planking and a couple of coats of poly. I'll plank the port side to accommodate 2 cannons and leave the starboard side unplanked.
Fitting the elm tree pumps was a real pain. They stand at an angle of 5 degrees, and the handles are long. If the handle placement is off the tiniest hair, the handle positions won't match and will be obvious because they are so long. Mine don't match perfectly, but I have to live with them!

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I've been working on some odds and ends. I finally decided I'd like to make the gun carriages out of boxwood. I liked the look of the boxwood carriages we used in the 17th Century Battle Station build. We used Mike's plans, and I had   the carriages cut out of boxwood. Here they are, without the cannons. We have another idea for those!!!

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I fit the gunport liners before planking the inboard bulwarks. The plans called for the vertical liners to be the same thickness as the horizontal liners (sills). By making them a bit smaller, I was able to cut the rough gunports along the line where the frames glued up, making the cuts much easier and straighter that cutting through the solid beech. I then planked the bulwarks. I also added thicker spirketing planks above the waterways.
 
 

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 I cut out the bulwark planking covering the gun ports and trued the pot sides and sills with some small files. I treenailed the inboard planking and laid the deck on the port side where the cannons will sit. Here are some shots. I need to put on a couple more coats of poly and begin work on the outboard planking.

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I couple of years ago, I picked up a box of scrap ends, cutoffs, split/cracked pieces and other un-sellable wood pieces...all of ebony! The cost was about $30. The wood is useless for full size woodworking except to make pegs or contrasting small inlays etc. but for modelling, it is very usable. It does take some preparation, though. All the ebony parts we included in our three kit project "17th Century Battle Station" came from this stash. I just completed the blanks for the wales and black strake as well as for two black strakes to be used at the level of the channels for some contrasting visual interest. The photos show the wood and the thicknessed blanks.
 

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In Goodwin's AOTS book, he states pretty definitively that the decoration/paint scheme of Blandford is speculative, as no definitive evidence of what was actually done exists. Depictions are based on what was common practice and on contemporary models. This gives a current model builder a lot of latitude in deciding what to add!

Obviously the wales will be ebony (black). Some might opt for an ochre color for the middle of the three wale planks, but I think that's too "busy" for my taste. The bulk of the outboard planking should be ochre (yellowheart or boxwood). 17th century, and early 18th century British ships often had a couple of thicker planks at the level of the channels, known as "channel wales". Blandford did not. But adding two black strakes where the channel wales would be does add a pleasing visual effect. Here is a rough plan of what I intend to do: I'll probably make the fenders of ebony, also! 
 

 

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I've built 4 models with yellowheart as the outboard bulwark planking, simulating ochre. In my 18th Century Ship of the Line build, I used boxwood. I liked the look and it worked well with the ebony, bloodwood and holly. I think I'll go with boxwood for Blandford. The ship of the line had the channel wale I mentioned in my last post!
 

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Ebony is tough on tools, so I have  dedicated carbide bit blades for both by 10" table saw and my Byrnes saw,  I use them just for ebony.  I also HATE to change sand paper in my Byrnes thickness sander, so I want the piece of ebony to be close to final size when I begin the final thicknessing.  I use my jointer to get  flat surfaces to bear against the fence and table on my table saw.  I raise the blade and slice off a piece less then 1/32" thicker than final thickness.  In then finish the dimensioning with the Byrnes thickness sander, using a couple of passes with the coarse grit and then the fine grit.  Essentially no hand sanding required.

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I planked the bulwarks down to and including the first plank of the wale. I drilled holes for the treenails with a #65 drill. Everything looked good. Once the treenails were glued in, clipped and sanded, I noticed a tiny bit of bleed through at the planking butt joints. Especially the but joint on frame #2. I thought this was odd because I used acrylic paint, not Magic Marker, and I didn't expect bleed through. What I'll do from now on is seal the butt joint ends with some CA glue (quick drying) before painting with black acrylic. Should stop any problems. The joints will be less noticeable once all the external hull details are added. I do plan to treenail the wales.

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Now that the wales have been glued into place, the model no longer fits in the building jig. I finished up the final stand. The supporting timbers are maple, and the base is mahogany. It turned out pretty good. I didn't want the display stand to be so involved as to overshadow the model. Simple.

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Nice work Doc.

Attention to detail is precise.

It will be superb when built.

Will you perhaps put any lighting in it such as small LEDs hidden around giving off a shimmer here and there?

Will look superb in the dark.

Only an idea but I may have offended already.

Sorry!

Pete

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