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Missouri by semorebutts - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC - Pontos detail up & advanced add on


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I might have a big problem on my hands. The finish on the hull feels just like 180 grit sand paper for some reason.  I hope the weathering and the dry transfer decals are not affected by this.   If so I can’t see myself sanding the entire hull around the hull plates and repainting. I really really hope this is fine. 

Edited by semorebutts
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I always use the brands thinner. Mission models paint  has a thinner and also a poly mix additive that’s supposed to help the paint dry slower. Even so I think the paint was drying before it hit the model.   I love Tamiya paint and never had this problem with them.  There color selection sucks for me though.  I currently have lifecolor, ak interactive, mission models, panzer aces, model air, velejo, and tamiya.  And I’m only comfortable with tamiya.....sucks I knew this was gonna be a problem before I started this ship. But I’m going to try the leveling thinner. How much do you put into the paint? 

Edited by semorebutts
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1 minute ago, semorebutts said:

I always use the brands thinner. Mission models paint  has a thinner and also a poly mix additive that’s supposed to help the paint dry slower. Even so I think the paint was drying before it hit the model.   I love Tamiya paint and never had this problem with them.  There color selection sucks for me though. 

Generally, a rough finish as you described is a result of the paint drying too fast just as you said, or also can happen when holding the airbrush too far away from the surface being painted. 

I hate using new paints on a good model. Always test on a practice piece first. I've learned this lesson the hard way.

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Ugh...ok but Before I sand it I want to just try to weather the hull just to see what happens at the very least it would be practice.  Does anyone know of any ship weathering tutorials? 

 

I had had a little time so I made up these things. I don’t know what they are called. 

Pretty straight forward. drill two .4mm holes using the guide. 

08B09894-5EFF-4040-B01B-9916034EAC92.thumb.jpeg.a3ec251b082677f33e078438ba60a2f9.jpegCCD5D85C-CC69-4CB7-B680-58C53A512DE6.thumb.jpeg.7a2876468ba584c5132bb7e415d4c39a.jpeg

then two 1mm holes

D746AC2B-D906-49FB-ADBB-BABC76C4C682.thumb.jpeg.53b9b3d2f794fa20560441e7918af29e.jpeg

then shove them in. No glue required the fit is so tight 

4707C5F1-9717-45EA-A6B1-774C17ACB492.thumb.jpeg.c8bcef2c6b315d64e1b7d536bc84bb76.jpeg

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nice looking bollards......how many do you have to make?   your paint issue looks like over spray settling on fresh paint.   I usually wipe 'em down lightly with a soft cloth,  since there is another coat of paint to go over it {if there is another coat}.   really nice progress  ;) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Before you you go all out and start attacking the hull with sandpaper you may want to try plastic scratch remover.

 https://www.webstaurantstore.com/novus-7100-plastic-cleaner-polisher-and-scratch-remover-kit/448PN7100.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwuqfoBRAEEiwAZErCsjxgwNlbpUucdGr_yhPtmvnBGQKfxhdVwPl7-XhQDgbnFjRU57Bh9xoCc-8QAvD_BwE

 

I had a Chevy Chaparral that had the same problem and looked like I was going to have to start all over again and I had decided to use #2 and 3 with a soft cloth first. It pretty much restored the smooth service of the paint without doing much, if anything, to the plastic, even though it went through to the plastic in some of the higher places. But it did not remove any detail at all. (Not that there is much "detail" on a 1964 Chevy Chaparral in the first place!)

 

Anyway it may be worth a try.  

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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If what Lou suggests doesn't work, try some rubbing compound.   The fine the grade the better.  I've used that in the past and it leaves a very smooth finish.  Just don't over do it or you'll rub through the paint.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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In the future, you might want to try Tamiya's bottled lacquer primer, reduced down with their lacquer thinner, through your airbrush. 

It's the same excellent primer found in their rattle cans, but it sells for less than $4 per bottle, so it's very economical. Besides that, it's just about the best primer I have found, period. It comes in either white or gray. Being it's a lacquer, it's safe under any type of paint you may decide to use on top of it as a top coat.

And what you said about Tamiya top coats being so very reliable, I agree 100%. Can't find a nicer acrylic to use than Tamiya IMHO. If you search the net, you can find the mix ratio's for just about any color you want to mix for Tamiya paints. But you're right, it would be a lot more convenient if they carried a broader range of pre mixed colors.

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20 hours ago, lmagna said:

Before you you go all out and start attacking the hull with sandpaper you may want to try plastic scratch remover.

In every modeler's (particularly plastic modelers) tool stash, you need a set of sandpaper similar to these:

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/waterproof-finishing-kit-ultra-fine/FLX00000110/product.php?s=4-3&t=2-2&u=2-2

You need to have an assortment of "grit" papers that far exceeds that of Home Improvement store variety. The finer grit paper, 600 and finer, are exceptionally well suited for polishing up a rough primer finish. On most of my models, primer coats are always polished with sandpaper, usually 1000 grit or finer, before applying color coats. It's just a standard practice. You can also use Tamiya sanding sponges which come in the similar fine grit, but the idea is not to attack, but polish.

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I have had this come up when laying a gloss black sometimes that is really akin to a real lacquer paint meaning it it has a fast drying agent smell almost like acetone.The paint in that case  can glob on the my Badger Airbrush little tips on the edge and I had a car painter on another forum it was humidity and temperature so now it's cold in my room.But ,back to the pebbles don't go the sandpaper route quite yet go to a paint shop or parts house and get an 800 grit scotch brite it contours to the plastic and levels the paint it's a must when I do Alclad silver on my aircraft before the silver goes down and the more you use the softer it gets. Kevin :imNotWorthy:

 

I tried some AK paint on a little  F-6AQ Recce Mustang just for the wing bands straight from the bottle no thinning sprayed smooth and level kinda liked it.I spray enamels mainly Model Masters or Humbrol and what I like about enamels is you have all night before you have to clean your gun unlike your acrylics you have to be quick.I lost one badger airbrush because I was not through enough and the needle seized in the gun(I broke the brass w/nut twisting) and all I had to do was soak it in ammonia.  

Edited by Javlin
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So I think I’m going to leave the paint on the hull the way it is.  If I try to fix it I will be in danger of abandoning the model and I don’t want to do that. 

 

I started messing around with all the washes I bought. 

image.thumb.jpg.a8e3cc684d5e822827caad3810f6d8eb.jpg

I have no idea what I’m doing. I tried out the salt streaks, rust streaks and the streaking grime. Does it look ok? Any pointers before I do the entire hull? The salt streaks are barely noticeable. The orange peel does not seem to effect the wash (thank god) 

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Also I started on the base.  I bought a 1 by 12 premium pine board. I wanted oak but holy crap $60?!?

47D0A775-3404-4240-8CF3-F7610C6FCC23.thumb.jpeg.2f6103836e287d5c4b4a1a3b027926af.jpeg

 

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2 hours ago, semorebutts said:

Will oak warp?

Any wood can warp but the denser the wood it's propensity decreases.Now the Pine you have can still be used if you were to glue a 1/2"T X 1"W frame around the edge whether on the top or the bottom will keep it flat.What are the dimensions of your board?I get the feeling you live in a dry/desert like climate?I have two pic for you the boat is on Oak that I ran through the router on three sides in this case about 6yrs old now and I live on the GOM high humidity year round.The other piece of wood is Philippine Mahogany I am showing you this if you want I can plane then router it if you like and send it to to you.The most time is setting up the router but I have other wood projects coming my way so that side of the shop is about to get active again.;) Kevin

woodwork 001.JPG

woodwork 002.JPG

Edited by Javlin
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Learned this the hard way!!  In finishing your baseboard to minimize warpage you have to “balance” it.  Whatever you do to the top surface, do to the bottom.   You therefore need to seal both the top and bottom against moisture.

 

My personal opinion is that this ship would not have been heavily weathered in service.  The ship was a prestigious command, with a large crew to keep busy when not in action.  Like the old navy expression goes “If it doesn’t move, paint it.”  And remember, a warship was judged by the condition of its boats.

 

I am enjoying your posts.  I am not a plastic modeler and am amazed at the detail that you guys are able to incorporate into these small scale models.  Nice work!

 

Roger

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